Welcome to the club. I only modded a PS1 and made the linear PSU a few months ago, but boy is it good.
LPS BOM
I am working on a BOM for Mick’s linear power supply. Being this will be my first psu I am hoping to get some help with this.
R3, R5, R6, R7, R8
1/4W 1% metal film.
R1, R10
2W or 3W wirewound
R2, R9
5W or 10W wirewound
I think for the resistors I am ok.
Where I can use some help is I am not sure what type to use and the volts for the capacitors.
Poly film but unsure of the specifics
C3, C4, C7, C8, C10, C14
Electrolytic but unsure of the specifics
C1, C2, C5, C6, CC9, C11, C12, C13, C15
I have a couple of questions that need verification on the other parts once I get past this. When I get this completed I will put up an attachment with part #’s that can be referenced.
Thanks.
I am working on a BOM for Mick’s linear power supply. Being this will be my first psu I am hoping to get some help with this.
R3, R5, R6, R7, R8
1/4W 1% metal film.
R1, R10
2W or 3W wirewound
R2, R9
5W or 10W wirewound
I think for the resistors I am ok.
Where I can use some help is I am not sure what type to use and the volts for the capacitors.
Poly film but unsure of the specifics
C3, C4, C7, C8, C10, C14
Electrolytic but unsure of the specifics
C1, C2, C5, C6, CC9, C11, C12, C13, C15
I have a couple of questions that need verification on the other parts once I get past this. When I get this completed I will put up an attachment with part #’s that can be referenced.
Thanks.
Attachments
Does anyone know of a supplier for the cinch connectors Mick uses for the power lead? I can find other types but not the "cut to length" variety.
That would be great🙂 I have the schematic printed and laying on my desk.....just havent gotten much farther than that, yet.
Re: LPS BOM
R1 and R10 should NOT be wirewound, you dont want stray inductance in that position! Use 2W metalfilm or the like.
Usually film capacitors are rated high enough anyway, like 63 or 100 V. Use polypropylene types for C7 and C14. For the others you can use polyethylene.
The electrolytics should be rated high enough, everything above say 16V is fine. Low ESR types are favourable.
My umbilical? Nothing exotic. It is self made using Din plugs (not cinch) with a lock ring. I have mine from a local store, but I guess they can be easily found anywhere.
Mick
ecir38 said:
R1 and R10 should NOT be wirewound, you dont want stray inductance in that position! Use 2W metalfilm or the like.
Usually film capacitors are rated high enough anyway, like 63 or 100 V. Use polypropylene types for C7 and C14. For the others you can use polyethylene.
The electrolytics should be rated high enough, everything above say 16V is fine. Low ESR types are favourable.
john blackburn said:
My umbilical? Nothing exotic. It is self made using Din plugs (not cinch) with a lock ring. I have mine from a local store, but I guess they can be easily found anywhere.
Mick
It was the connectors at the motherboard end refered to as flat cable connectors I was asking about, sorry for any confusion caused.
john blackburn said:
maplin sells multi-pin plugs and sockets, you can also use din plugs depending on how many conneections you want.
Re: Re: LPS BOM
Mick, having a hard time finding a 22uf. Should I be looking for something other than polyethylene. I found a PETP for the .22uf.Mick_F said:
Mick, I’ll stop bothering you soon on the BOM as I am getting down to the last few questions.
The MSR860 and a Low ESR 4700uf are backordered from the place I would like to order. The MSR860 will be replaced with a Schottky SB560 and the capacitor with a general purpose one. I think this will be alright for now and can always replace these when they become available. Note of this will be made on the BOM.
For the trimmer I am thinking 1/2w 25 turn will be alright and for the 1N400x I am thinking 1N4002 100V 1A will be alright.
The 4.3 Zener raises a couple of questions. You say that the Zener’s are not very precise. By this I think you mean that you may need to try a higher voltage one to get the 4.3V drop. I am not sure of what amperage and wattage one I should be looking for.
Finally I have a couple of questions on the toroid. I am looking at a 9+9V 15VA. Will 15VA be enough or should I go with a 25VA? Do you have a recommendation for what values to go with for resistors R2 and R9 with the 9+9V?
Thanks Again.
The MSR860 and a Low ESR 4700uf are backordered from the place I would like to order. The MSR860 will be replaced with a Schottky SB560 and the capacitor with a general purpose one. I think this will be alright for now and can always replace these when they become available. Note of this will be made on the BOM.
For the trimmer I am thinking 1/2w 25 turn will be alright and for the 1N400x I am thinking 1N4002 100V 1A will be alright.
The 4.3 Zener raises a couple of questions. You say that the Zener’s are not very precise. By this I think you mean that you may need to try a higher voltage one to get the 4.3V drop. I am not sure of what amperage and wattage one I should be looking for.
Finally I have a couple of questions on the toroid. I am looking at a 9+9V 15VA. Will 15VA be enough or should I go with a 25VA? Do you have a recommendation for what values to go with for resistors R2 and R9 with the 9+9V?
Thanks Again.
Buy more Zeners that you need and test them to get the correct value. You may need up to 10 to find a good one. There is a lot of scatter.
Use a normal 500mW type.
For R2 and R2: both rails draw 1A max so you need at least a 1W resistor. I used 5W types in both rails. They become warm but not too much.
As for the toriod, you need at least 8V*1A + 4V*1A = 12A. In order to have some headroom rather use 25 than 15VA. (I wrote this on my website
)
Mick
Use a normal 500mW type.
For R2 and R2: both rails draw 1A max so you need at least a 1W resistor. I used 5W types in both rails. They become warm but not too much.
As for the toriod, you need at least 8V*1A + 4V*1A = 12A. In order to have some headroom rather use 25 than 15VA. (I wrote this on my website
)Mick
Bom
Here is the BOM I put together for Mick's Linear power supply.
http://dogbreath.de/PS1/LinearPSU_V2/LinearPSU_V2.html
I think everything looks good thanks to Mick's help. If something doesn't look right please let me know and I will adress it.
MSR860 and 4700uf were backordered when this BOM was put together. MSR860 can be replaced with a SB560 Schottky and the 4700uf can be replaced with a general purpose one.
Note: BOM does not include everything that will be needed.
ie. 9+9V 25VA toroidal, breadboard, enclosure, cable and connectors, terminal blocks, fuse holder, optional net filter etc.
Unfortunantly everyone will not be able to use the part #'s of the supplier I will use due to their location. The description of the item should point you in the right direction. Hopefully this help others out that weren't sure of the specifics for the parts needed like myself.
If you save the pic to your hard drive you should be able to print a larger pic.
Thanks again Mick for kepping up with this thread, I am grateful.
Here is the BOM I put together for Mick's Linear power supply.
http://dogbreath.de/PS1/LinearPSU_V2/LinearPSU_V2.html
I think everything looks good thanks to Mick's help. If something doesn't look right please let me know and I will adress it.
MSR860 and 4700uf were backordered when this BOM was put together. MSR860 can be replaced with a SB560 Schottky and the 4700uf can be replaced with a general purpose one.
Note: BOM does not include everything that will be needed.
ie. 9+9V 25VA toroidal, breadboard, enclosure, cable and connectors, terminal blocks, fuse holder, optional net filter etc.
Unfortunantly everyone will not be able to use the part #'s of the supplier I will use due to their location. The description of the item should point you in the right direction. Hopefully this help others out that weren't sure of the specifics for the parts needed like myself.
If you save the pic to your hard drive you should be able to print a larger pic.
Thanks again Mick for kepping up with this thread, I am grateful.
Attachments
Re: Bom
Of course better parts can be used, this is a fairly cheap version. For the 1/2W metal film resistors 1/4 watt should be alright. For the capacitors 16V or above is recommended per Mick.
Of course better parts can be used, this is a fairly cheap version. For the 1/2W metal film resistors 1/4 watt should be alright. For the capacitors 16V or above is recommended per Mick.
Hi Mick,
I want to do follow you. But I can't find PS1 SCHP-100x in Vietnam, so have alot of SCHP-550x. I can try use SCHP-550x? And how to modify it, because I know it's not include opam. Could you help me?
Thanks!
I want to do follow you. But I can't find PS1 SCHP-100x in Vietnam, so have alot of SCHP-550x. I can try use SCHP-550x? And how to modify it, because I know it's not include opam. Could you help me?
Thanks!
In the early days of this thread (something like November 2005) a user was posting here who had good results with the 5502. Please check those earlier posts. Also, you can modify as I described by replacing everything behind the DAC by a simple high pass. It doesnt matter whether or not there is an opamp in the stock version.
Mick
Mick