Hi Lee,
<What's the difference from stock to modded?
I modified the the case, the power section, the motherboard, the Laserport, the output stage and the RCA. I don`t can say exactly which mod has which effect.
The summary off all is that the Music is more homogeneous, much more dynamic and there is more air between the musicans.
Best example : I heard Hugh Masekela" Hope " today with the new Modification. With original PS it sound not verry good, the sound is nervious and you have to reduce the sound intensity every time the trompet or saxophone' s playing. Also the sound is a little bit indolent (??)
With the modificated PS : You can hear a high sound intensity without to get into trouble. Instead to reduce the sound intensity i highten it to get a true LIVE feeling. I have high performence loudspeaker ( 103 dB ) so i want to have a dynamic CD Player. Now i have one ;-))
<Dommi, can you elaborate on this modification please?
I will try it
This are caps which have a very small capacity. I think it`s better to use them to make the original caps faster. Next week i have to go to my electronic dealer and i will take 2 new fast caps for them, so i can disolder the original one and solder the new one.
I don`t know if it' neccessery or audible, but if the soldering iron is just hot.............
Dommi
<What's the difference from stock to modded?
I modified the the case, the power section, the motherboard, the Laserport, the output stage and the RCA. I don`t can say exactly which mod has which effect.
The summary off all is that the Music is more homogeneous, much more dynamic and there is more air between the musicans.
Best example : I heard Hugh Masekela" Hope " today with the new Modification. With original PS it sound not verry good, the sound is nervious and you have to reduce the sound intensity every time the trompet or saxophone' s playing. Also the sound is a little bit indolent (??)
With the modificated PS : You can hear a high sound intensity without to get into trouble. Instead to reduce the sound intensity i highten it to get a true LIVE feeling. I have high performence loudspeaker ( 103 dB ) so i want to have a dynamic CD Player. Now i have one ;-))
<Dommi, can you elaborate on this modification please?
I will try it
This are caps which have a very small capacity. I think it`s better to use them to make the original caps faster. Next week i have to go to my electronic dealer and i will take 2 new fast caps for them, so i can disolder the original one and solder the new one.
I don`t know if it' neccessery or audible, but if the soldering iron is just hot.............
Dommi
Thanks Dommi, so you've bypassed what seem to be 10uf with....1uf? I wonder if a bigger one behind that would help at all?Dommi said:
This are caps which have a very small capacity. I think it`s better to use them to make the original caps faster. Next week i have to go to my electronic dealer and i will take 2 new fast caps for them, so i can disolder the original one and solder the new one.
I don`t know if it' neccessery or audible, but if the soldering iron is just hot.............
Dommi
Lostcause said:
<Sorry Dommi, that's what I meant. The terminology on these forums seems to change throughout the areas. Some call this bypassing even though technically it isn't!!! Go figure!
<
OK, i only want to avoid misunderstanding because my English is not the best !!
I think a bigger cap is not neccessery because the needed current from the DAC isn't big. And don't forget the bigger cap is the slower cap.
BR Dommi
Lostcause said:OK so I expect you know the next question....
What makes the PS1 so good then?
The complete output circuits are now bypassed and the PSU is not the best.........
Is the DAC so different or better than many others?
I take it it's not the transport...or is it?
Lee
This it THE question !! I think it`s the CD Transport. I don't know per 100% but i think that the rpm of the Sony Transport is higher and the PS was build for Video, so the chips for readout and calculation are verry good. But it's only my own theory. It`s not scientificalli proved.
This is an excellent thread guys! I've been reading it with excitement for the last few days now. I love this stuff....
I have a couple of 1001's coming my way - can hardly wait to get at it!
As for upgrading the transport - is there a better drop in replacement for the stock one??? Or, will there be more mods required???
Mick,
Nice job on your website - the photos are excellent!
-Ken
I have a couple of 1001's coming my way - can hardly wait to get at it!
As for upgrading the transport - is there a better drop in replacement for the stock one??? Or, will there be more mods required???
Mick,
Nice job on your website - the photos are excellent!
-Ken
Why not use the latter Playstation (SCPH 5552)..?? Same DAC, better on board shielding, transport further away from power supply and only 5 cables from power board to main board if you wish to house it in a separate box.. You will have to fit new RCA's, but I did that on my 1002 anyway.
I tried using a Modded Playstation with no DC blockers with 2 different modded T Amps and they didn't like it. As you increased the volume, the speaker cone was pulled in, so test with care and old speakers....
anyone had similar problem?
As for the sound of the 1002 with 4.7uf blockers fitted, fantastic! At first I thought it was bass light so I paralleled them with another pair of 4.7uf caps, still the same. The bass was there, it was just so fast and detailed, Love it...
I am running in the modded 5552 at the moment to see what the difference is.
I tried using a Modded Playstation with no DC blockers with 2 different modded T Amps and they didn't like it. As you increased the volume, the speaker cone was pulled in, so test with care and old speakers....
anyone had similar problem?As for the sound of the 1002 with 4.7uf blockers fitted, fantastic! At first I thought it was bass light so I paralleled them with another pair of 4.7uf caps, still the same. The bass was there, it was just so fast and detailed, Love it...
I am running in the modded 5552 at the moment to see what the difference is.
audio1st said:Why not use the latter Playstation (SCPH 5552)..?? Same DAC, better on board shielding, transport further away from power supply and only 5 cables from power board to main board if you wish to house it in a separate box.. You will have to fit new RCA's, but I did that on my 1002 anyway.
I tried using a Modded Playstation with no DC blockers with 2 different modded T Amps and they didn't like it. As you increased the volume, the speaker cone was pulled in, so test with care and old speakers....
As for the sound of the 1002 with 4.7uf blockers fitted, fantastic! At first I thought it was bass light so I paralleled them with another pair of 4.7uf caps, still the same. The bass was there, it was just so fast and detailed, Love it...
I am running in the modded 5552 at the moment to see what the difference is.
Very interesting post and I am looking forward to hear your judgment about the sound of the 5552 in comparison with the 1002.
Your observation of pulled in speaker cones sounds like a DC problem. Probably you had some amount of DC coming into the T-amp due to the lack of a blocker in the PS and at higher volume this lead to a directly visible problem. Does your modded T-amp have a blocker at the input?
Could you provide some more details on your 4.7uF blocker? Where did you put it and did you combine it with a ground resistor? If so, which resistance did you use?
Mick
What do you think about this:
First I drilled a hole into the board between the RCAs and disconnected the RCAs from the circuit (by cutting the traces with a small screwdriver). Three cuts are necessary, two on the bottom.....
....and a cap on top of the board next to the strange thing Jives recently discussed here has to be removed. You can see the empty pads on the left of the thing.
Then I soldered two 3.3uF polyester caps to the input pads of the first set of caps, i.e. directly to pins 15 and 16 of the DAC. Two wires go from the caps through the hole.....
... to the bottom of the board, where they are connected to the + poles of the RCAs. Finally I soldered a 22k ground resistor directly from the + to the grounds of the RCAs.
This way, the complete stock output stage is bypassed. The only things which are now in the signal path are the Wima cap and the ground resistor. What do you think about it? I have not powered it up yet (I never do that after late night soldering).
Mick
First I drilled a hole into the board between the RCAs and disconnected the RCAs from the circuit (by cutting the traces with a small screwdriver). Three cuts are necessary, two on the bottom.....
....and a cap on top of the board next to the strange thing Jives recently discussed here has to be removed. You can see the empty pads on the left of the thing.
Then I soldered two 3.3uF polyester caps to the input pads of the first set of caps, i.e. directly to pins 15 and 16 of the DAC. Two wires go from the caps through the hole.....
... to the bottom of the board, where they are connected to the + poles of the RCAs. Finally I soldered a 22k ground resistor directly from the + to the grounds of the RCAs.
This way, the complete stock output stage is bypassed. The only things which are now in the signal path are the Wima cap and the ground resistor. What do you think about it? I have not powered it up yet (I never do that after late night soldering).
Mick
Hi guys,
Very cool work going on here. How's it sounding?
Lostcause asked me to comment on the T-AMP speaker cone pulling in problem. Sure sounds like DC offset to me. The only way I can imagine this happening is a lack of DC blocking on the T-Amp. As stated in other threads, if the input bias of the Tripath chip deviates from 2.5V you will get a proportional DC offset at the speaker terminals, magnified by minus 12~18X.
So by sure to double check your T-amp inputs. I am in the process of modding my Sony SACD player for no DC blocking caps or muting transistors. So this thread is doubly interesting. I'll be doubly careful with my amps, too!
Very cool work going on here. How's it sounding?
Lostcause asked me to comment on the T-AMP speaker cone pulling in problem. Sure sounds like DC offset to me. The only way I can imagine this happening is a lack of DC blocking on the T-Amp. As stated in other threads, if the input bias of the Tripath chip deviates from 2.5V you will get a proportional DC offset at the speaker terminals, magnified by minus 12~18X.
So by sure to double check your T-amp inputs. I am in the process of modding my Sony SACD player for no DC blocking caps or muting transistors. So this thread is doubly interesting. I'll be doubly careful with my amps, too!