🤣 🤣
Yeah.... with IDSS range from 30 to 300 and $25 a piece, that would indeed be interresting.
Hello
I posted a part purchase a while ago, but I received an email saying it was in stock.
I ordered the parts and case as soon as possible.
My heart is pounding, but I am also worried.
What do I need to prepare now?
I looked at the past contents and saw the parts that were replaced with the op amp,
It was very professional and difficult.
Someone please be kind and guide me.
Any content would be appreciated.
It would be better if I changed this part to this.
If you need this to complete something other than what you purchased,
Please be careful about this part when assembling.
Is the opamp single or dual? What should you check before purchasing?
Have a fun new year everyone
I posted a part purchase a while ago, but I received an email saying it was in stock.
I ordered the parts and case as soon as possible.
My heart is pounding, but I am also worried.
What do I need to prepare now?
I looked at the past contents and saw the parts that were replaced with the op amp,
It was very professional and difficult.
Someone please be kind and guide me.
Any content would be appreciated.
It would be better if I changed this part to this.
If you need this to complete something other than what you purchased,
Please be careful about this part when assembling.
Is the opamp single or dual? What should you check before purchasing?
Have a fun new year everyone
I´m sorry, but my first thought was: Could you please write this in english??
Assuming, you´re talking about the Pearl-3, the only line that made any sense was
But I would assume, that all your questions are already ansvered in the build guide.
Assuming, you´re talking about the Pearl-3, the only line that made any sense was
It´s dual.
But I would assume, that all your questions are already ansvered in the build guide.
@bancrest
Look at and read all the links in post #1 of this thread.
Download and print the .PDF
Consult the online guide - https://guides.diyaudio.com/Guide/Pearl+3/28?lang=en
Substitute nothing in the build. Enjoy a wonderful phono preamp.
🙂 🙂 🙂
Look at and read all the links in post #1 of this thread.
Download and print the .PDF
Consult the online guide - https://guides.diyaudio.com/Guide/Pearl+3/28?lang=en
Substitute nothing in the build. Enjoy a wonderful phono preamp.
🙂 🙂 🙂
If you have the Pearl 3 kit ordered from diyAudio store, the PSU parts from ThatcherDIYaudio, and the Chassis from Modushop, you will still need -
Chassis jacks, chassis wiring, standoffs for the PCB mounting, power switch, IEC power entry module, Cable gland, ground post, and some mounting hardware.
This document, linked above, as well as in the first post, has suitable part numbers listen in the BOM section. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/pearl-3-phono-build-doc-1-0d-pdf.1325269/
Hello,
I am thinking that while the 2n5457 has more noise it will also have less gain.
I am also looking to reduce the overall P3 gain for use with a MM cartridge. Just perhaps the tradeoff between lower gain and higher input noise will be a push, and affect the output SNR too much.
You know just for fun.
Thanks DT
Attachments
Thanks gents!
Should have slowed down and looked at the schem more 😆
Q5 in an inverting stage, U1A is an inverting stage, U1B is a non-inverting; for a final output that is non-inverting!
My pre-amp is a 12AU7 Aikido and is signal inverting (common cathode stage and cathode follower)
I guess I just have to swap the L and R connections at the input to my power amp huh?
Should have slowed down and looked at the schem more 😆
Q5 in an inverting stage, U1A is an inverting stage, U1B is a non-inverting; for a final output that is non-inverting!
My pre-amp is a 12AU7 Aikido and is signal inverting (common cathode stage and cathode follower)
I guess I just have to swap the L and R connections at the input to my power amp huh?
Just reverse it at the speakers so you don't mess up audio ground between components.
If you know about inverting each section within the P3, and you've been around since 2014, you likely didn't mean this how I read it, but just in case...
I read this to mean that you were possibly going to change the entire "interconnect" from L to R channel.
i.e. left channel output from pre-amp moved to right channel input of amp and vice versa. If that's what you meant, then that's not how it works.
Do what 6L6 suggests if you care about phase, or just leave it alone. With that said, I found it fun to see if I had a preference with certain gear in the chain. I actually prefer "phase inverted" for some things. YMMV.
And just in case... what is meant here is not swapping left and right channels, but swapping the + / - connections for each speaker.
In relation to my TT hum problem I happened to stumble upon a truly brilliant exploration of the phenomenon. I hope I am allowed to publish the link to it here. I do not have any affiliation with this company, never heared of it before, as said I discovered it just now.
Btw, I changed R27 to 680 Ohm (which gives me 4,43 mA L and 4,12 mA R) and lowered the low gain to about 42 dB (R22 = 82 Ohm) for a better match with my DAC output.
Now I have to rebuild my phono cable...
Btw, I changed R27 to 680 Ohm (which gives me 4,43 mA L and 4,12 mA R) and lowered the low gain to about 42 dB (R22 = 82 Ohm) for a better match with my DAC output.
Now I have to rebuild my phono cable...
Hello stereonutty,
the article (your link) is good. Something I do for a long time. Shield connected only to one side of RCA-cable, Signal and ground run inside.
Cheers
Dirk
the article (your link) is good. Something I do for a long time. Shield connected only to one side of RCA-cable, Signal and ground run inside.
Cheers
Dirk
Exactly. That and the other little pieces in the audio chain.
99% of the proposed ”this sounds better than that” sayings is that the sayer is experiencing that in his or hers specific situation. Plus a little ”I changed something to something with a heavy price tag, so it sounds divine”
After building a BA3 Preamp, a BA2 (had some troubles and decided to move on to a F5T V3) I just finished the pcba`s. Might be ready this weekend, or maybe next. Do I need to set the value for R27 once or for each OP amp if I`m going to roll them?
Thank you
Cheers Alfons
Thank you
Cheers Alfons
Fired up my Pearl 3 today
Tried JRC2068 (comes with the kit), NE5532, OPA2134 and NE5534 op-amps. Regardless of op-amp, the voltage measured across R27 was 2.15V (right), 2.20V (left). ~10mA through R27
Going to remove R27 from the PCB and add sockets. Thinking I will start with a 470R to get the bias more in the 2-5mA range.
By the way, does anyone have working voltages for the transistors? want to compare
Tried JRC2068 (comes with the kit), NE5532, OPA2134 and NE5534 op-amps. Regardless of op-amp, the voltage measured across R27 was 2.15V (right), 2.20V (left). ~10mA through R27
Going to remove R27 from the PCB and add sockets. Thinking I will start with a 470R to get the bias more in the 2-5mA range.
By the way, does anyone have working voltages for the transistors? want to compare
470R won't be enough. Please search this thread for "R27". You will find some great info about setting the bias.