Sure. We had one case above where continuity was there but only when the probe was pushing down the smd leg. Check the solder joints below the opamp base. Might be good to post a view of the entire solder side of the board.
Will do all that, but probally after the weekend.
Still, having things thought over a bit, I think the wire is the most likely cause. I used solid core for the in -and outputs, and did not desolder it while desoldering and resoldering R27 (on of the reasons why that was so difficult). The boards must have moved a lot while I was doing that, so there might be breaks in them.
Still, having things thought over a bit, I think the wire is the most likely cause. I used solid core for the in -and outputs, and did not desolder it while desoldering and resoldering R27 (on of the reasons why that was so difficult). The boards must have moved a lot while I was doing that, so there might be breaks in them.
@stereonutty: When you have a chance, check the orientation of all the transistors on the left channel and, especially, TTA004B and TTC004B (and that the latter two are in the correct slot -- they are easy to interchange).
Beginner seeks guidance, which power supply to buy for Pearl 3?
I received this private message today. However, I believe that the collected wisdom of all thread readers is far far greater than any one person's, so I am placing the request here for all to see. Now, thousands of Forum members have an opportunity to share their experiences, offer their advice, and learn from the discussion. It's not one person tutoring one person; it's many people educating many MANY people. The message said:{hello mark etc.} . . . . . I have been viewing the Pearl 3 thread for a long time. I have gone through all the posts related to Pearl 3, and I am very excited to build one, but I don't have any technical knowledge in electronics to build one. I know soldering, but I am not so confident to build P3. so seeking help from someone too.
I am a bit confused now with the power supply, which one to buy; there are a lot of PSUs that were used for P3 builds I have seen. So which one will be best for Pearl 3? I like to have a dual power supply in my mind. Thank you so much.
Kindly offer your suggestions and recommendations here in the thread, so that all may benefit. Thank you!! -- Mark Johnson
Build the supply on the PCB included in the kit. It’s the best documented, has the best support, and works very, very well.
Yes. Trying them in Pearl 3, although something I very much want to do, will perhaps be accomplished by the end of 2025 when looking at my current list of other stuff to do...
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For a beginner it's best to stick with the power supply designed by rthatcher. It pretty much guarantees a successful build. Complete the build and simply ENJOY a phono pre that, in the commercial space, would cost thousands of $$$.
I am running with the kit PS. The thing it is dead quiet and I am using a 0.25mV MC pickup.
AFAIK I have not seen any noise sims or exp measurements of UDP3 vs the kit PS. If I am wrong or misinformed, please let me know.
IMO Only if there was a dramatic diff in noise it would justify the going for UDP3.
AFAIK I have not seen any noise sims or exp measurements of UDP3 vs the kit PS. If I am wrong or misinformed, please let me know.
IMO Only if there was a dramatic diff in noise it would justify the going for UDP3.
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@grataku: Sounds good. Would suggest that one additional advantage to using Randy's PSU is that it offers pre-regulation -- that improves the overall noise floor significantly. The thread devoted to Mend It Mark's rebuild of Evan's MasterGroove shows the multiple regulators Evans uses in this $31k device and there is clearly an advantage to pre-regulation. I used the stock PSU for a month before switching over to dual PSUs with pre-reg (Randy's) and noted the noise improvement immediately. Both methods are very quiet, however, and your system has got to be noiseless to hear the change.
Am waiting to hear your audio assessment of the P3. Have you got it up and running yet?
Now, PLEASE, don't tell Randy about the $31k phono pre with its multiple regulators or he might jack up his price (LOL). As with 6L6, they charge way too little for their generous efforts...
Am waiting to hear your audio assessment of the P3. Have you got it up and running yet?
Now, PLEASE, don't tell Randy about the $31k phono pre with its multiple regulators or he might jack up his price (LOL). As with 6L6, they charge way too little for their generous efforts...
I'm waiting for Randy to come up with the quadruple power supply from his Vendetta research.
In the meantime, go for double Randy supplies... make the P3 fully dual mono. You won't be sorry.
My balanced cable got delayed by an Amazon "technical" problem. Had to cancel and reorder, now they say it will be here on Dec 24 but nothing has been done on the order. I'm about fed up... might just go with another brand.
In the meantime, go for double Randy supplies... make the P3 fully dual mono. You won't be sorry.
My balanced cable got delayed by an Amazon "technical" problem. Had to cancel and reorder, now they say it will be here on Dec 24 but nothing has been done on the order. I'm about fed up... might just go with another brand.
@tonyEE: Make XLR cables for my sound studio and, after buying too many expensive ones from Blue Jeans, found a source for my preferred cable, Belden 1800-f. It is Raw Cable and here is the link:
https://www.rawcable.com/cable/1800F.htm
You can get 200 feet for $394 and then buy your own terminations from Amazon. Neutrik are preferred by many but I gauge them on the way in which they connect and solder to the wire. Check out the various XLR terminations on Amazon and you will see you can save a bunch by DIY.
BTW use high-end mics (Neumann, Shoeps, Earthworks) and, after trying lots of cable types (Mogami, Canare, etc.) found that the Belden was best to my ears.
https://www.rawcable.com/cable/1800F.htm
You can get 200 feet for $394 and then buy your own terminations from Amazon. Neutrik are preferred by many but I gauge them on the way in which they connect and solder to the wire. Check out the various XLR terminations on Amazon and you will see you can save a bunch by DIY.
BTW use high-end mics (Neumann, Shoeps, Earthworks) and, after trying lots of cable types (Mogami, Canare, etc.) found that the Belden was best to my ears.
I thought we were talking about the UDP3 vs the kit PS. Who is Randy?
I think I gave my assessment of the Pearl3 already. Or maybe not? Much better than the my other SS RIAA. There is a touch of 'op-ampyness/solid statedness' which I wish was not there. I mean the highs can be a bit ear drilling at times but the mids are well carved out and very ejoyable, lows are slammy, like streaming or better even, on the same material, and imaging is also very good. RIAA correction is definitely done right (not that I would expect anything different given the pedigree). I have at least four more opamps and I am getting some more to swap. I am hoping another opamp would produce smoother top end. I was encouraged by your? report on the vivid. I think if that edge can be taken off this is something I can live with, especially because I can go down to the store, buy another pickup flip a couple of switches and it's game on.
@Craigl59
In the MendItMark Tom Evans thread I didn't see the direct evidence of the benefits of multiple parallel and series (pre-regulation) in the measurements but in the context of a whole lot of pile-on abuse in that thread my mention of it got shouted down. When I mentioned that people here were getting good results with separate high quality regulation and separate pre-regulators power supplies they said "show me".
i think I asked you if you had measurements that showed (proved?) the benefits you heard. Are you back home?
For my part I believe in this design philosophy and am taking this John Curl + Tom Evans approach.. in part because it mirrors what I've read by Walt Jung, Jan Didden, Richard Marsh and Gary Galo in TAA. And your reporting.
In the MendItMark Tom Evans thread I didn't see the direct evidence of the benefits of multiple parallel and series (pre-regulation) in the measurements but in the context of a whole lot of pile-on abuse in that thread my mention of it got shouted down. When I mentioned that people here were getting good results with separate high quality regulation and separate pre-regulators power supplies they said "show me".
i think I asked you if you had measurements that showed (proved?) the benefits you heard. Are you back home?
For my part I believe in this design philosophy and am taking this John Curl + Tom Evans approach.. in part because it mirrors what I've read by Walt Jung, Jan Didden, Richard Marsh and Gary Galo in TAA. And your reporting.
@mhenschel : Replied to your MendItMark request with the same statement as above. Do not measure these kinds of changes but the audible difference is proof to me. Am not "back home" I spend 6 months in the mountains (summer) and 6 months in the valley (winter).
It is not necessary to respond to those who demand "show me" and I suggested this at that time. If the naysayers want proof, let them do the same procedure and provide their own measurements.
It is not necessary to respond to those who demand "show me" and I suggested this at that time. If the naysayers want proof, let them do the same procedure and provide their own measurements.
@tonyEE
Recently I've had similar experience up that South American river... without a paddle.
if I still had enough stock I'd be using Belsen 8451 with the foil shield.
As it stands I'll probably just buy terminated cables from the pro AV shop where I got the Neutrik jacks for the components I'm building.
Recently I've had similar experience up that South American river... without a paddle.
if I still had enough stock I'd be using Belsen 8451 with the foil shield.
As it stands I'll probably just buy terminated cables from the pro AV shop where I got the Neutrik jacks for the components I'm building.
I guess I like to trust (my ears) but verify. Not be led down the garden path. Also, it depends on the measurement type, but if we're talking PS noise, these are the simplest measurement known.
A feedback/no feedback, a 0.1 vs 0.2%thd, 2nd vs 3rd harmonic is something I can compare by ear and go with my preference.
We're all friends here, and I don't think the Tom Evans thread was so out of control.
😉We're all entitled to our own opinion.