Pearl 3 Burning Amp 2023

@ranshdow On a steel covers Modushop Galaxy, there is a bent-in tab that is intended to be placed against the inside of the front panel. This allows the rear panel able to be flush with the chassis top and bottom. If the panels are reversed, that tab will overhang the rear panel which looks awful and may impinge on connectors or printing, etc…


That said, it’s logical to want the solid metal over the inputs and outputs, which is why the Pearl 3 custom chassis has the vents on the “other“ end of the panel. It’s a subtle difference from stock, and was chosen for the exact reason you mention.
 
@ranshdow On a steel covers Modushop Galaxy, there is a bent-in tab that is intended to be placed against the inside of the front panel. This allows the rear panel able to be flush with the chassis top and bottom. If the panels are reversed, that tab will overhang the rear panel which looks awful and may impinge on connectors or printing, etc…

Your post made me realise that I have been doing it the wrong way round for years in a pair of enclosures for my DIY Bugle... 😕 Top side can be reversed, bottom side not because of the holes drilled into it. Oh well, I actually did not think it looked horrible, and I do not look at the back side anyway...
 
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from the Faraday Cage aspect perhaps it matters less where the holes are than that there are holes at all?
for heat management hole location manages airflow. this isn't supposed to be critical in this unit -- provided the on-board regulators aren't asked to work too hard. the enclosure doesn't need holes at all, no?
 
Stupid question I’m sure, after ordering the umbilical from Mouser…i ordered the Mogame 2549 as indicated in the BOM, only to realize that the build guide was calling for “at least 3 conductors,” and the 2549 is only 2 conductor. So i ordered the 2534 starquad - 4 conductors - as recommended in this thread back about 30 pages or do. Soooooo…because i have been breathing too many fumes stuffing the boards, my brain is unable to determine the correct protocol for what one does with the 4th conductor.

Please help this poor confused nincompoop….😉
 
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Hi,
now I will start this project, finally...
I read the 107 pages (great), but I just want to be sure that I understood everything right.
So my short summary - and please correct me if I'm wrong:
  • J2 is practically a switch between MM/MC; it's for MM when shorted and for MC when opened
  • MM should be used with 47k load, so no R-switch on the DIP will be closed
  • for MM, the C-switches should/can be used for capacitance adjustment, if needed
  • for MC, the load will be adjusted with the R-switches on the DIP
  • R-C on the DIP is for high impedance cartridges

Is that right so far?
Many thanks in advance.
 
Kit landed, auxiliary parts ordered and chassis from @Gianluca is coming my way.
Hello_there.jpg
 
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Hello All,

Doing the finishing touches on a single Pearl 3 board today.

I am sorting out a few tests to run.

One thing that I did notice was that the majority of the J112 jfets for Q9 were falling out of the bag of 100 at or around a Idss of ~48ma.

For Q9 I tried several values of source resistors, at 15 volts DC supply the source current settled in at ~5ma with ~3.75 volts across the 750R resistor. Next time I will try a PF5102 Jfet with a lower Idss.

Thanks DT