Q401/2 look reasonable with 40mv at the output pin.
Pin 3 is not connected as configured for QE01/2 and so I wouldn't at this point worry over what happens when you touch that pin. The DC conditions are all incorrect on both. Pin 6 is fine and that should determine the DC output voltage.
Pin 7 QE02, is that -23 volts or millivolts?
I would scope both output pins of those chips and make sure that you have nothing untoward showing. It should be a straight trace of whatever the DC voltage is.
Pin 3 is not connected as configured for QE01/2 and so I wouldn't at this point worry over what happens when you touch that pin. The DC conditions are all incorrect on both. Pin 6 is fine and that should determine the DC output voltage.
Pin 7 QE02, is that -23 volts or millivolts?
I would scope both output pins of those chips and make sure that you have nothing untoward showing. It should be a straight trace of whatever the DC voltage is.
It doesn't compute at this point then, you have 5mv on pin 6 and that alone should set the DC operating point. DC feedback via RE12 means the output pin should follow pin 6 at DC.
Scope it first to see what is there (if anything).
Scope it first to see what is there (if anything).
The DC voltages just don't compute at this point and so you need to scope it to see if that really is pure DC at the output or whether it is something else.
So trying to work this one out now
Pins 1 and 4 disconnected,continuity check, no connection between pin and board
Pin 1 has 0v on it but 1v on the board
pin 4 has -300mv on it and rail voltage on the board
same both chips
Pins 1 and 4 disconnected,continuity check, no connection between pin and board
Pin 1 has 0v on it but 1v on the board
pin 4 has -300mv on it and rail voltage on the board
same both chips
Knowing that should make it easier to diagnose.
Its not really making sense at this point, all I can say is that our theory should not fail us on this... its a basic 'text book' configuration of an opamp.
Lets start again.
With the chip removed there should be 0 volts on all pcb pads apart from the two supplies.
Specifically pin 6 must be zero volts DC.
You mention 1 volt on the board for pad 1. With the chip removed you will see that same voltage on pin 7 (via the 18k feedback resistor). The only path available for that is via leakage in CE15/CE16 and that would imply a higher DC voltage on the + side of those caps. If there is significant voltage on the + end of those caps then that needs investigating.
If there is doubt over what is happening at the output end of those caps then remove them for fault finding. That isolates the opamp output from the following circuitry.
Ooops, hadn't finished...
So if with the chip removed you have:
Pad 1 = 0v
Pad 2 = n/c
Pad 3 = 0v
Pad 4 = -23v
Pad 5 = 0v
Pad 6 = 0v
Pad 7 = 0v
Pad 8 = +23v
Then with the chip fitted you should see pin still remain close to zero volts.
If it does not then I would look again at the opamps.
So if with the chip removed you have:
Pad 1 = 0v
Pad 2 = n/c
Pad 3 = 0v
Pad 4 = -23v
Pad 5 = 0v
Pad 6 = 0v
Pad 7 = 0v
Pad 8 = +23v
Then with the chip fitted you should see pin still remain close to zero volts.
If it does not then I would look again at the opamps.
Ive tried 6 different chips now and most are the same showing simlar result, but not the same
the below(chips removed) looks like this
QE01
Pad 1 = -500Mv
Pad 2 = n/c
Pad 3 = 0v
Pad 4 = -23v
Pad 5 = 0v
Pad 6 = 0v
Pad 7 =-500MV
Pad 8 = +23v
QE02
Pad 1 = -210Mv
Pad 2 = n/c
Pad 3 = 0v
Pad 4 = -23v
Pad 5 = 0v
Pad 6 = 0v
Pad 7 =-210MV
Pad 8 = +23v
so maybe a bit of leakage CE5/6
0V upstream of CE 15 and 16
RE15/16 good to ground 0v
with the chips back in though, both channels a different story
I did find RE17 missing(replaced)
was there an alternative replacement for this chip as i cant find what i would consider a realy good reliable source for these being obsolete(all come from china somewhere)
I did read on here about some piggy back system for a BrownDog 140901 HA1457 Upgrade Adapter, but from what i can see its american
the below(chips removed) looks like this
QE01
Pad 1 = -500Mv
Pad 2 = n/c
Pad 3 = 0v
Pad 4 = -23v
Pad 5 = 0v
Pad 6 = 0v
Pad 7 =-500MV
Pad 8 = +23v
QE02
Pad 1 = -210Mv
Pad 2 = n/c
Pad 3 = 0v
Pad 4 = -23v
Pad 5 = 0v
Pad 6 = 0v
Pad 7 =-210MV
Pad 8 = +23v
so maybe a bit of leakage CE5/6
0V upstream of CE 15 and 16
RE15/16 good to ground 0v
with the chips back in though, both channels a different story
I did find RE17 missing(replaced)
was there an alternative replacement for this chip as i cant find what i would consider a realy good reliable source for these being obsolete(all come from china somewhere)
I did read on here about some piggy back system for a BrownDog 140901 HA1457 Upgrade Adapter, but from what i can see its american
Interesting.
So pad 7, the output, should have zero volts on it but it might be residual charge. If there is 0 volts on RE15 and RE16 then we have to assume the voltage is not coming from further on.
I don't know of any alternatives to that chip tbh and there is also the complication of the slightly higher than usual rails. Most opamps are -/+18v with a few exceptions. That might be easily got around though.
If the power supply only powers the opamp circuitry you could easily alter the regulated voltages to something else. You could try wiring a standard opamp in 'dead bug' style as a test to see if it all worked. That means wires from the pins to the pads. There would only be five wires, supply, two inputs and the output. Any opamp, even a 741 should works as a test.
If that worked then using a dual SIL opamp like a 2068 might be doable with a bit of rework. Some pins would be in the right place already.
I think the first thing is to prove conclusively it works with a known good chip (of any type)
So pad 7, the output, should have zero volts on it but it might be residual charge. If there is 0 volts on RE15 and RE16 then we have to assume the voltage is not coming from further on.
I don't know of any alternatives to that chip tbh and there is also the complication of the slightly higher than usual rails. Most opamps are -/+18v with a few exceptions. That might be easily got around though.
If the power supply only powers the opamp circuitry you could easily alter the regulated voltages to something else. You could try wiring a standard opamp in 'dead bug' style as a test to see if it all worked. That means wires from the pins to the pads. There would only be five wires, supply, two inputs and the output. Any opamp, even a 741 should works as a test.
If that worked then using a dual SIL opamp like a 2068 might be doable with a bit of rework. Some pins would be in the right place already.
I think the first thing is to prove conclusively it works with a known good chip (of any type)
The supplies are just over the maximum limits (44v total). Try adding a 220k across R811 and R812 in the regulator to bring the rails down a bit, then try the NE5532. If you straighten the pins along one side of the 5532 then pins 1 and 4 will fit the board directly (you may need to drill a hole for pin 2 or just use a wire), pin 8 needs a link to pad 8. Pad 3 which is shown not connected links to pad 6. Pin 2 of the chip needs to connect to pad 7.
Connect pins 7 and 6 together and connect pin 5 to pin/pad 1
Remove CE07 and CE13 and RE07
Just check I've got it right.
Connect pins 7 and 6 together and connect pin 5 to pin/pad 1
Remove CE07 and CE13 and RE07
Just check I've got it right.
this might be a good permanat option
https://doggenshozen.wordpress.com/2019/09/24/the-roland-sph-323-phaser-part-ii-ha1457-replacement/
https://doggenshozen.wordpress.com/2019/09/24/the-roland-sph-323-phaser-part-ii-ha1457-replacement/
Maybe, it is up to you ultimately though.
I think I would want to prove it all good first before throwing money at it. Everything points to a problem with the opamps and yet normally opamps are super reliable.
I think I would want to prove it all good first before throwing money at it. Everything points to a problem with the opamps and yet normally opamps are super reliable.
what are the connections 3 to 6 and 2 to 7 for?
pin 2 is blank on my chip
pin 3 isnt connected at the board at all
Last edited:
Pin 3 on the 5532 is the non inverting input which is pin 6 on the original, and pin 2 is the inverting input on the 5532 which is pin 7 on the original.
Pin 3 wasn't used on the original and so should not have been connected.
The 5532 will just stand on its side and solder directly using pins 1 to 4 in the original location. You then alter the connections to suit.
Pin 3 wasn't used on the original and so should not have been connected.
The 5532 will just stand on its side and solder directly using pins 1 to 4 in the original location. You then alter the connections to suit.