Hi, can anyone tell me how the ide cdrom kit gets the digital stream from the ide device? Also does it have a power supply for the dvd/cdrom? Thanks.
Can't help with the digital stream question, but it needs +5v dc and so will the cd rom you choose. You should be able to use a pc power supply to power both. Thomas Emailed me today and said he will get back to me tomorrow with the digital connections. I can't wait to try the cd rom controller with my cd rom.
I remember seeing a linear power supply for a cdrom on a asian diy site a few years ago that I wish I had purchased. Please post a note how your kit both works and sounds.
Hi Kip,
I have the Eastsound E5 also. I'm glad to hear that the nonprofit v3 DAC spounds better than the E5 because I'm waiting for the ultimate v3 DAC from Thomas. Can you describe in more detail how the v3 DAC sounds better than the E5? Thanks.
I have the Eastsound E5 also. I'm glad to hear that the nonprofit v3 DAC spounds better than the E5 because I'm waiting for the ultimate v3 DAC from Thomas. Can you describe in more detail how the v3 DAC sounds better than the E5? Thanks.
The Eastsound E5 sounds thinner compared the dac ver.3. Everything about the ver.3 dac sounds more realistic. The bass is just as good, the treble is smooth. I have not had enough time to sit for a while and get a good listen on sound stage (width or depth), but so far I am very excited about this dac. I still need to install all the caps, fix the U4 heat problem, install the TDA1541AS2 chip and experiment with output opamps. The full balanced version would be nice as my Karan integrated amp is fully balanced. I have the Karan KA-i180 integrated raved about on TNT Audio and my speakers are Merlin VSM-M.
Hi folks,
I also had trouble getting the clock board working. I found that JP4 needs to be changed too.
In summary for NOS with clock:
JP1 short , JP2 short, JP3 2-3 short
JP4: open, JP5: short
S2 : 1 off, 2 off, 3 on, 4 on
My first impression with the reclocking is not so good. But I have to do more comparisons to draw a conclusion. Thomas, what exactly happens with this board? Is it a PLL board with exact 11.28 Mhz clock? Could you confirm the above jumper settings?
For the rest I really like this DAC, also after a few days of serious listening. I inserted a S1 DAC chip I had in my drawer, makes it even more smooth and precise. Also, I inverted the sound with a winamp plugin, this is important for NOS! (you can also reverse the speakers + and - wires at the amplifier).
Ciao,
Fedde
I also had trouble getting the clock board working. I found that JP4 needs to be changed too.
In summary for NOS with clock:
JP1 short , JP2 short, JP3 2-3 short
JP4: open, JP5: short
S2 : 1 off, 2 off, 3 on, 4 on
My first impression with the reclocking is not so good. But I have to do more comparisons to draw a conclusion. Thomas, what exactly happens with this board? Is it a PLL board with exact 11.28 Mhz clock? Could you confirm the above jumper settings?
For the rest I really like this DAC, also after a few days of serious listening. I inserted a S1 DAC chip I had in my drawer, makes it even more smooth and precise. Also, I inverted the sound with a winamp plugin, this is important for NOS! (you can also reverse the speakers + and - wires at the amplifier).
Ciao,
Fedde
Hi Thomas,
While I wait for your ultimate v3 DAC to be completed, can you send me the regular 8 TDA1541A chips I ordered/paid for already?
While I wait for your ultimate v3 DAC to be completed, can you send me the regular 8 TDA1541A chips I ordered/paid for already?
I played with the $25.00 cd rom controller today with very little luck. I tried an older creative labs 4x cdrom first. The cd controller can see it and with a push of play will play a cd, but nothing else after that. The cd continues to play and no other button responds. If I eject the cd the contoller's second counter stops and it still says playing. When I re-insert the cd, it seems that the software has locked up and I must turn off the power to get it to work again. I get the same scenario using the remote. It works, but only for play. The remote has play, but nothing else. I tried a new thin laptop cd player with adapter and the controller says checking IDE. I double checked all cables and they are correct. I tried a 40 pin and a 80 pin IDE cable, both do the same. This is a bummer as to this was to be my all in one solution. I also do not have any direction as to how to connect the cd rom controller to the dac ver.3, but I feel that this may now be a mute point. All voltages are correct. I am now in need of a fix for this or another solution to finish this project.
I have used the DAC in all modes. The sound is good, but it can't beat the high end equipment I compared it to.
However it is close and I am impressed by the results.
I beleive a few improvements are needed and it should compete with all the good rigs we own.
First thing I would like to see is the reduction of noise. When nothing is played and you crank up the volume control, you can hear white noise and hum at a fairly high level.
Particularly anoying is the clock module that polutes the power supply rail or may be something else. When we used the DAC without the clock the noise level goes down.
It could be wise to filter the 5 volt supply on the clock board using beads, chokes and decoupling caps on every chip on this board.
I did not conduct any advanced research on this board, but I suspect clearly the 5 volt rail to be the problem.
I see the gain of the audio stage is high and, so when you listen to a normal audio level we hear less noise. But it is always present and in my opinion it affects the transparency of the DAC.
It could prevent us, in a way, to hear the subtled nuances of the recordings.
High end equipment invest a lot to keep the noise almost inaudible, even at maximum volume.
I would like Thomas, if he can find the time, to look for ways to reduce the noise level at every section of the DAC, particularly the clock circuit.
Before attemting sophisticated upgrades we should give our upmost attention to noise reduction.
Jean-Charles
However it is close and I am impressed by the results.
I beleive a few improvements are needed and it should compete with all the good rigs we own.
First thing I would like to see is the reduction of noise. When nothing is played and you crank up the volume control, you can hear white noise and hum at a fairly high level.
Particularly anoying is the clock module that polutes the power supply rail or may be something else. When we used the DAC without the clock the noise level goes down.
It could be wise to filter the 5 volt supply on the clock board using beads, chokes and decoupling caps on every chip on this board.
I did not conduct any advanced research on this board, but I suspect clearly the 5 volt rail to be the problem.
I see the gain of the audio stage is high and, so when you listen to a normal audio level we hear less noise. But it is always present and in my opinion it affects the transparency of the DAC.
It could prevent us, in a way, to hear the subtled nuances of the recordings.
High end equipment invest a lot to keep the noise almost inaudible, even at maximum volume.
I would like Thomas, if he can find the time, to look for ways to reduce the noise level at every section of the DAC, particularly the clock circuit.
Before attemting sophisticated upgrades we should give our upmost attention to noise reduction.
Jean-Charles
hi kip,
I was back. my computor had a little problem during the heavy rain, typhoon reason. My computr was close to the window & the glass was broken by strong wind. I was in china, last night when I back, all the desk, book, pen box etc were water. computor, to. I was repair ow. this is one of the connection PCB, other photos will coming too.
any diyers who buy the cd-kt & running pls help kip first, I will follow up.
thx
thomas
I was back. my computor had a little problem during the heavy rain, typhoon reason. My computr was close to the window & the glass was broken by strong wind. I was in china, last night when I back, all the desk, book, pen box etc were water. computor, to. I was repair ow. this is one of the connection PCB, other photos will coming too.
any diyers who buy the cd-kt & running pls help kip first, I will follow up.
thx
thomas
Attachments
hi feede, kip & ashok, all the qestion check already.
I will fnis the chart & told U how to work to night. I will test all now.
thx
thomas
I will fnis the chart & told U how to work to night. I will test all now.
thx
thomas
Hi jean,
can to told me the nise sound,??? hum or ???
I use TAD hadn't this problems, Do U sure was come from V, I will try to use more beads, chokes and decoupling caps on the 5V selection to try. is the DAC ground to the chassis already sometime the little noise will lower more when ground to chassis will lower.
BTW, I will prepare another 5V circuit to try. Actually this is a non-profit project. I trust I use full BC109 with the Jan grade 2n930 will better than OP-amp. as U said most high end DAC pay much money in the power supply & lower the noise. I will do it. But,if the cost is too high. I was quite worry it was a diy products..... is t good to diyers??? About the crack sound. since the final version will use more relay with MCU to controll, it will not had this probles.But two ~ three more PCB need !!!!!! the basic price will increase, hope all diyers will understand.
USW relay to seperate & MCU to control the power switch on ( with relay) will had had pop sound later.
Pls let me know the noise that U find inthe clock? pls provide more information to me, thank.
The clock was 11.2896 with 4X for SAA7220P/B.
If U connect the JP4 U must remove all the two small block. If not connect the JP4. U remove the 7220 will be OK, connect all the JP5.
than t will work, if U remove the clock with the 7220P/B U must connect the JP4.
pls remember the Mo of the 8414 need adj when U change mode!!
thx
thomas
can to told me the nise sound,??? hum or ???
I use TAD hadn't this problems, Do U sure was come from V, I will try to use more beads, chokes and decoupling caps on the 5V selection to try. is the DAC ground to the chassis already sometime the little noise will lower more when ground to chassis will lower.
BTW, I will prepare another 5V circuit to try. Actually this is a non-profit project. I trust I use full BC109 with the Jan grade 2n930 will better than OP-amp. as U said most high end DAC pay much money in the power supply & lower the noise. I will do it. But,if the cost is too high. I was quite worry it was a diy products..... is t good to diyers??? About the crack sound. since the final version will use more relay with MCU to controll, it will not had this probles.But two ~ three more PCB need !!!!!! the basic price will increase, hope all diyers will understand.
USW relay to seperate & MCU to control the power switch on ( with relay) will had had pop sound later.
Pls let me know the noise that U find inthe clock? pls provide more information to me, thank.
The clock was 11.2896 with 4X for SAA7220P/B.
If U connect the JP4 U must remove all the two small block. If not connect the JP4. U remove the 7220 will be OK, connect all the JP5.
than t will work, if U remove the clock with the 7220P/B U must connect the JP4.
pls remember the Mo of the 8414 need adj when U change mode!!
thx
thomas
tube-lover said:
Hi Thomas,
On the latest picture (just above), all playing button are on the main board from the CD controller. It was not the case in previuos pages from this topic (cf picture under)
I take your kit for these reason. I have a Pradit Kit to that has all button and controller on one large board, and it's less comfortable for sweet chassi building as extra button pcb as shown on your picture above. I really appriciate this solution if you can. My chassis has a max internal height of 55mm.
Marc
hi jean,
this will I will seperate all the section of the power supply to retest how to lower the white noise when nothing is played.
I will same test as U crank up the volume control t test for it. Actually I try to added more small beads will cost lost of the HF air, certainly the noise will lower down, let me to further test for it.
This is not a large problem, I think I can fix this week.
When I fix this proble. I wil lEt U know how much was the basic price increase & use it into the new VEr.3.Lucky was the power supply was seperature. I only need to re-lay out the power supply PCb & the cost will not increase too high.
thx
thomas
this will I will seperate all the section of the power supply to retest how to lower the white noise when nothing is played.
I will same test as U crank up the volume control t test for it. Actually I try to added more small beads will cost lost of the HF air, certainly the noise will lower down, let me to further test for it.
This is not a large problem, I think I can fix this week.
When I fix this proble. I wil lEt U know how much was the basic price increase & use it into the new VEr.3.Lucky was the power supply was seperature. I only need to re-lay out the power supply PCb & the cost will not increase too high.
thx
thomas
Hi Thomas,
This is your low cost DAC and I think it is very good . No need to apologise . The forum can work together to improve it .
In my system with a Creek power amp ( 5350SE) the background noise ( 100Hz ripple and a little hiss) is audible only right next to the speaker. This is when I'm playing the music quite loud.
From the listening position ( about 12 feet away) I hear no hum or hiss.
I don't get much time to do long tests but I felt that the NOS operation has better sounding midrange than the one with the clock and SA7220. Music with vocals that can be "shouty" sound far better in NOS mode. NOS however is slightly lacking in the HF arena.
It isn't as 'clean' and sounds a bit recessed. Transients also lack the bite that the full system has.
I have not done any mods and don't plan to do any immediately.
NOS is however very good and IC4 doesn't heat up much when the SA7220 is removed !
Cheers,
Ashok.
This is your low cost DAC and I think it is very good . No need to apologise . The forum can work together to improve it .
In my system with a Creek power amp ( 5350SE) the background noise ( 100Hz ripple and a little hiss) is audible only right next to the speaker. This is when I'm playing the music quite loud.
From the listening position ( about 12 feet away) I hear no hum or hiss.
I don't get much time to do long tests but I felt that the NOS operation has better sounding midrange than the one with the clock and SA7220. Music with vocals that can be "shouty" sound far better in NOS mode. NOS however is slightly lacking in the HF arena.
It isn't as 'clean' and sounds a bit recessed. Transients also lack the bite that the full system has.
I have not done any mods and don't plan to do any immediately.
NOS is however very good and IC4 doesn't heat up much when the SA7220 is removed !
Cheers,
Ashok.
I don't understand why everybody has the most heating problems with U4. On my board, U5 and U1 are the hottest by far (but not too hot IMHO). But I don't use the filter board yet.
The great thing about NOS is that instruments are very good separated. You can focus on one of the instruments in the mix and hear it without any effort. Actually, you can hear details about multiple instruments at the same time. I use a EQ in my computer, so I can compensate for the HF dip. And don't forget about the phase, this has also an (very small) effect on the perceived HF!
Fedde
The great thing about NOS is that instruments are very good separated. You can focus on one of the instruments in the mix and hear it without any effort. Actually, you can hear details about multiple instruments at the same time. I use a EQ in my computer, so I can compensate for the HF dip. And don't forget about the phase, this has also an (very small) effect on the perceived HF!
Fedde
Hi Fedde,
U4 heats up a lot for many users because they are using the SA7220 board. U4 supplies this chip and when you use in NOS mode the SA7220 bard is not installed. So U4 has much less load on it and stays much cooler.
I am inclined to listen in NOS mode for the next few weeks and see if I prefer it in the long run. I certainly like the reproduction of voice which is crucial.
Regarding heating, I think a multiple secondary transformer is a good idea. This DAC has a power supply board that can be changed easily. However the best solution would be using the stock board and making some mods. I'll check out my earlier suggestion and see if it works well.
Cheers.
U4 heats up a lot for many users because they are using the SA7220 board. U4 supplies this chip and when you use in NOS mode the SA7220 bard is not installed. So U4 has much less load on it and stays much cooler.
I am inclined to listen in NOS mode for the next few weeks and see if I prefer it in the long run. I certainly like the reproduction of voice which is crucial.
Regarding heating, I think a multiple secondary transformer is a good idea. This DAC has a power supply board that can be changed easily. However the best solution would be using the stock board and making some mods. I'll check out my earlier suggestion and see if it works well.
Cheers.
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