I found KiCad very easy to earn. I'd recommend a book titled KiCad - Getting Started in KiCad by Jahshan, Hutchinson, Tappero, Jarron & van den Berg to be a good starting point.
So are we running a GB for these or not? I absolutely do not need more amps and boards, but why not? 🙂
even halfquestion is superfluous ........ long time ago
regarding pcb progz ...... several years ago back - I tried at least 5 different ones, during few years
all without any success, simply couldn't make decent start, nothing was intuitive and I couldn't pass even simple step without struggle
so , one day I decided to try again, in small simple steps - just to draw schematic, using Eagle 6.3
36 hours later - without sleep, maybe just one sandwich and few gallons of coffee, I had decent Babelfish J2 (my old , just slightly Babelfished original J2) pcb, which I perfected in next week in baby steps, feeling enormous satisfaction
later learned hot to solve several problems ( notoriously small pads for resistors and some other small parts), finding parts and footprints online, and - even more important - making my own when I'm lazy or dissatisfied with found packages
Pa gave me PCad, to have it and use for some of his work, but never felt a need to use any other than one I'm already using
have no need for multilayers ( nor head to build anything that way), so I'm pretty sure that I'm never going to upgrade or change weapon of choice
old knife is better than new one, from all known reasons 🙂
regarding pcb progz ...... several years ago back - I tried at least 5 different ones, during few years
all without any success, simply couldn't make decent start, nothing was intuitive and I couldn't pass even simple step without struggle
so , one day I decided to try again, in small simple steps - just to draw schematic, using Eagle 6.3
36 hours later - without sleep, maybe just one sandwich and few gallons of coffee, I had decent Babelfish J2 (my old , just slightly Babelfished original J2) pcb, which I perfected in next week in baby steps, feeling enormous satisfaction
later learned hot to solve several problems ( notoriously small pads for resistors and some other small parts), finding parts and footprints online, and - even more important - making my own when I'm lazy or dissatisfied with found packages
Pa gave me PCad, to have it and use for some of his work, but never felt a need to use any other than one I'm already using
have no need for multilayers ( nor head to build anything that way), so I'm pretty sure that I'm never going to upgrade or change weapon of choice
old knife is better than new one, from all known reasons 🙂
While we're on the topic of PCB design software, would it be out of line to ask you to post the CAD files (.sch & .brd) as well? Pretty please?
I'm asking this because I thing this is a great opportunity to resuscitate a Marantz 15 I'm tired of fixing, but too good to throw away. The amp has some space limitations, so I most probably need to adjust the board dimensions, fixing holes, and so on.
I understand it's gonna be a variant for sissies of the Stasis, given the constraints. Let's call it the Sisis. 🙂
I'm asking this because I thing this is a great opportunity to resuscitate a Marantz 15 I'm tired of fixing, but too good to throw away. The amp has some space limitations, so I most probably need to adjust the board dimensions, fixing holes, and so on.
I understand it's gonna be a variant for sissies of the Stasis, given the constraints. Let's call it the Sisis. 🙂
Good luck with fixing the Marantz 15 - I have not seen one of those before, as with most Marantz amps from that era - it will be worth fixing.
only under condition that you document whatever you do to that (Marantz) beauty 🙂
and - whatever you do with Eagle files, leave appropriate note on pcbs
these are deliberately marked with (C) Passworks
claim same, note edit
Thanks a zillion ZM!
Of course, your orders will be followed to the letter, but first, some disclaimers:
I blew it twice, and I've been thinking about a fix for some years:
Of course, your orders will be followed to the letter, but first, some disclaimers:
- The picture I posted is from a Japanese site, my own unit has a lot more wear, and so it looks more "authentic" 🙂
- This project is #5 in my backlog, so don't hold your breath, ETA is late 2021
I blew it twice, and I've been thinking about a fix for some years:
- Put it back to the original state? Given its current state, the resale value must be low, and it didn't sound very good by today's standard
- Transplanting a more contemporary "brain" into the body? Which one? The New Stasis is the perfect candidate for a lesson in history: AMYAT (American Masters, Yesterday and Today) 🙂
Attachments
These are GE 1134 automobile light bulbs. Really.
They're supposed to protect the transistors, which they fail to do, most of the time. Occasionally, they even fail to protect themselves.
yes I saw in the circuit - 6.3V @ .2A, I also believe that the circuit is so outdated... but- nice chassis
Blk Dynamite, 800VA is more than sufficient - with 45vAC sec you will have approx 60VDC rails and heaps of current available. You will need to use 80VDC rated caps and aim for 60,000uF per rail minimum for a stereo build. Or go dual mono with 2 off 400VA transformers. That will all fit nicely in the pico 500mm deep enclosure. I am looking at 100,000uF per DC rail, but only at 40VDC.
Hmmm, I was thinking of using a couple of Cap multipliers rather than a bank of caps.
I'm aiming for about 35-40V on load.
