For the small extra cost the terminals with tabs on are great, and Stefan can supply nice crimping to make wiring up a doddle.
I used the same ones (as they were cheap) for a cabinet, I just soldered them outside the box and fed the cable through, easy with tabs for the driver, so easy to change.
But the spade ones are well worth it.
I used the same ones (as they were cheap) for a cabinet, I just soldered them outside the box and fed the cable through, easy with tabs for the driver, so easy to change.
But the spade ones are well worth it.
Then it is time to learn how to solder. As long as you aren’t using welding cable it is fairly easy. Typically i use 24g solid.
dave
dave
Does anybody know it the denovo 0.56 box with the alpair 11ms combo worked out well? I am considering the same. The largest of the three Nostromo designs comes close to the 16 litre volume of the denovo.
Regarding my search for a supplier for the wood, I have just ordered (from a small company in Cornwall) enough cut panels for the medium Nostromo to make 4 cabinets in 18mm BB/BB Russian birch ply, all for £92 delivered. Total cost to date including drivers, hardware, wood and glue comes to £390. Will report back in a few weeks on findings/progress.
Half way through my build, so a sub-question to the above, if I lag all internal surfaces with say 8mm wool, is that the same as lagging the non-opposing faces with 16mm wool?
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very impressive build, I don’t see any gaps, tear-outs or damaged edges on those plywood boxes which means a lot of care with good tools.
Quality material and sharp tools will do that for ya every time.
Looking very nice indeed
Many thanks for your positive feedback. In terms of the cut wood, credit goes to Woodshop Direct - Leading Supplier Of Quality Machined Timber, the rest I did myself with hand tools and a power sander. I took my time as it was my first woodwork project since a pencil case some five decades ago! Listening impressions to follow in a couple of weeks time but they do sound promising already.
How would these be for an on-wall application?
The shallow depth is appealing and due to the on-wall reinforcement I think that a relatively small, sealed enclosure would give acceptable extension (though this setup would also have a subwoofer).
Also playing around with the idea of this driver in a 2-way. Crossed over quite high to the tweeter, maybe 5-8 kHz. (I've got a new DSP I am eager to use if you can't tell....).
One concern I have is internal reflections coming back out through the cone in a shallow box. Should I be looking at something else or can this be reasonably mitigated? If I go with a sealed box I could really get crazy with the stuffing since port airflow is not an issue.
The shallow depth is appealing and due to the on-wall reinforcement I think that a relatively small, sealed enclosure would give acceptable extension (though this setup would also have a subwoofer).
Also playing around with the idea of this driver in a 2-way. Crossed over quite high to the tweeter, maybe 5-8 kHz. (I've got a new DSP I am eager to use if you can't tell....).
One concern I have is internal reflections coming back out through the cone in a shallow box. Should I be looking at something else or can this be reasonably mitigated? If I go with a sealed box I could really get crazy with the stuffing since port airflow is not an issue.
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If you look at my pictures in post 70 you will see that my build has a rear port, so I can't be of further help. Others I'm sure will be able to.
To add:
Thinking about sealed enclosure around 4.5L. Extension looks smooth and although it tapers relatively early (-3dB at 90Hz, -10dB at 55Hz) I think with the half-space reinforcement and the right crossover to a subwoofer it could sound quite good.
I am leaning towards a 2-way using a similar overall profile to the attached image. May keep the crossover closer to 3.5->5 kHz rather than approach 8, I had forgotten that it might be necessary to keep the tweeter extremely close to prevent phase troubles at a frequency like that.
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