ok, I decided on a pair of W5-1138smf in a push push isobaric configuration at the bottom of a short rectangular tower, vented with a short conduit & maybe add a twitter in the back of the case. I wonder if the Alpair 5 (5w) will be loud enough to sound balanced properly with the twin W5's. If not I''ll change the Alpairs to the FE85 (8ohm, 12w) or TEBM46C20N-4B (4ohm, 20w) both 85db@1w/1m
Push-push means that the drivers are working against each other mechanically so as to cancel the reactive forces (greatly reducing box load).
An isobarik has one driver “behind” another to create a compound driver. Its primary benefit is that (main) box volume can be halved. The coupling chamber should be as small as possible.
It is possible to come up with a scheme that does this, but the cabinetry becomes a maze, larger, and any gross volume benefits greatly decrease as does the upper frequency limit.
With 4 drivers you can easily do push-pull-push-push. Output of 2 woofers with the box volume for one.
Here a 3D visualization:
dave
An isobarik has one driver “behind” another to create a compound driver. Its primary benefit is that (main) box volume can be halved. The coupling chamber should be as small as possible.
It is possible to come up with a scheme that does this, but the cabinetry becomes a maze, larger, and any gross volume benefits greatly decrease as does the upper frequency limit.
With 4 drivers you can easily do push-pull-push-push. Output of 2 woofers with the box volume for one.
Here a 3D visualization:
dave
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I guess the TysenV2 are not and the Tysen need to be in a sealed container thus the "isobaric, equal pressure... although the port is to far away from the drivers i don't know if it matters all that much.
What would the downside of this be ? I'm still able to achieve target frequencies (the advertised 45hz on the W5), lower the sensitivity, and have a smaller case design ect ...
What would the downside of this be ? I'm still able to achieve target frequencies (the advertised 45hz on the W5), lower the sensitivity, and have a smaller case design ect ...
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Hi Dave,
I've been wondering on why WAW setups usually crossover at around 200-400 Hz. May I ask why?
I know it helps the mid-tweet section get rid of bass duties. But I have also tried a TB 6.5" subwoofer crossed over at 200hz (12db slope), but I slightly hear voices (very faint one but nonetheless irritating, which messes with the overall imaging) in the TB subwoofer, when mated with an Alpair 10P.
The 200Hz (-12db slope) cutoff comes from an active crossover, I haven't tried any passive ones yet
1/ keep as much of the critical voice within the bandwidth of the FR
2/ keep the XO low enuff that one can keep the XO less than the ¼ wavelength distance between the drivers
3/ high enuff that the FR does not have to produce much bass
4/ as a generaliztion about half of the energy in music is below 300 Hz and the other half above
Pushing most subwoofers up to 200 Hz is above what they are really capable of. You really want to use a midBass that can go fairly high up.
dave
2/ keep the XO low enuff that one can keep the XO less than the ¼ wavelength distance between the drivers
3/ high enuff that the FR does not have to produce much bass
4/ as a generaliztion about half of the energy in music is below 300 Hz and the other half above
Pushing most subwoofers up to 200 Hz is above what they are really capable of. You really want to use a midBass that can go fairly high up.
dave
Thanks so much for your inputs Dave.
Yes, midbass is more probably appropriate for 200-400hz territory.
The only reason why I also chose the TB W6 is because of its "claimed" low Fs capability (up to 30-35hz) to reach into deep bass territory
The reason why I chose to try out the TangBand W6 (specifically W6-1139SIF) was because I wanted to try to (in a way) replicate the Boenicke W8 floorstanders, which also uses the TB W6's.
I have seen many DIYer's here who were able to replicate/clone the Boenicke W5 (also using TangBand but smaller TB W5 drivers), but I haven't seen anyone trying to do its bigger brother, the Boenicke W8.
Since the Boenicke's are also sort of a WAW design, I figured why not use Markaudio A10p as the main driver (yes I also added some supertweeters to supplement the super top end), then add a woofer/subwoofer to handle the bottom end of the spectrum, just like the Boenicke's
As per Boenicke's claims, the TB subwoofers are ported design and then rolled off "naturally" (no filters) and tuned to 28hz. I actually don't know how they achieved that with such a small cabinet (The Boenicke W8 is a very small floorstander), and how the TB W6's sound without any filter at all.
I already had the Alpair 10Ps in Pencil cabinets and enjoyed them thoroughly for years already. But my curiosity gets the better of me , to try out new things and play with it
Any inputs are greatly appreciated
Yes, midbass is more probably appropriate for 200-400hz territory.
The only reason why I also chose the TB W6 is because of its "claimed" low Fs capability (up to 30-35hz) to reach into deep bass territory
The reason why I chose to try out the TangBand W6 (specifically W6-1139SIF) was because I wanted to try to (in a way) replicate the Boenicke W8 floorstanders, which also uses the TB W6's.
I have seen many DIYer's here who were able to replicate/clone the Boenicke W5 (also using TangBand but smaller TB W5 drivers), but I haven't seen anyone trying to do its bigger brother, the Boenicke W8.
Since the Boenicke's are also sort of a WAW design, I figured why not use Markaudio A10p as the main driver (yes I also added some supertweeters to supplement the super top end), then add a woofer/subwoofer to handle the bottom end of the spectrum, just like the Boenicke's
As per Boenicke's claims, the TB subwoofers are ported design and then rolled off "naturally" (no filters) and tuned to 28hz. I actually don't know how they achieved that with such a small cabinet (The Boenicke W8 is a very small floorstander), and how the TB W6's sound without any filter at all.
I already had the Alpair 10Ps in Pencil cabinets and enjoyed them thoroughly for years already. But my curiosity gets the better of me , to try out new things and play with it
Any inputs are greatly appreciated
I have a pair of A12PWs. I just finished the cabinets. I am running them at low volumes now. The break in guidance is vague. I am averaging peaks of 50db at 1 meter. When I turn it up a little I get what sounds like cone distortion on one of the speakers. Is this something that will go away after it is broken in or is it a bad driver? Could it be an issue with the wiring? Madisound is currently out of stock. Do we figure more are on their way?
I'am between all MA 7, I choose the A7.3 but Madisound is out of stock, I should buy the P7HD insted or 7MS or?
please help me, which one do you prefer?
I have A10.3M and FH but looking for more midrange detailed.
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I guess I can add a super tweeter to the Pluvia 7PHD and enjoy.
Have you heard or know about P7PHD vs P7HD?
Thank you.