No BOM proliferation
There is no such thing as an ultimate BOM for the FE.
Bob is actively collaborating testing and confirming the official FE BOM's parts and orientation.
Included in Bob's tests there are some NOS parts that could not be included in BOM for their limited availability.
Orientation informations (for people that trust it, like me and Bob) is already included on RC boards.
There is no such thing as an ultimate BOM for the FE.
Bob is actively collaborating testing and confirming the official FE BOM's parts and orientation.
Included in Bob's tests there are some NOS parts that could not be included in BOM for their limited availability.
Orientation informations (for people that trust it, like me and Bob) is already included on RC boards.
Attachments
For people running component listening tests, I would recommend that if some edginess is heard, give them at least 100hrs run time before swapping them out.
As I maintain my belief that one's ears are the ultimate tools for testing amps, it will be very beneficial and interesting to get charts and graphs from some of the builders on the list who have access to professional test/lab equipment.
A list or group of agreed upon "top choice" components will most likely appear, but the "By Fanatics - For Fanatics" sub-title of the forum is descriptive of what will most likely be a continuing search for "The Ultimate". That's a good thing and makes the hobby both fun and challenging.
A list or group of agreed upon "top choice" components will most likely appear, but the "By Fanatics - For Fanatics" sub-title of the forum is descriptive of what will most likely be a continuing search for "The Ultimate". That's a good thing and makes the hobby both fun and challenging.
In reference to possible changes to the layout (posts #540 & 561) is there any chance of getting the main audio out tabs (signal & signal ground/return) closer to each other as a convenience feature? I know the current placement has to do with the effectiveness of the amp grounding, but it's not the best for keeping the leads short and of equal length in a chassis. That appears to be the same footprint in all MyRef versions. What's the trade-off?
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Also in Mauro's original layout and in the My_Evo there is the same problem.
It would be possible, theoretically, mirroring smoothing caps and DC protection circuit but in this way you'll have the output signal crossing PS lines with possible more crosstalk.
I wouldn't risk in this phase when we have a proven layout.
I solved the lenght problem, in my previous build, using same lenght wires differently routed.
Thought the answer would be something like that. It's not so big a problem as to warrant that amount of redesigning. Thanks - just thought I ask.
Roughly equivalent to the Wima FKC2 is the Evox CFR, also polycarbonate film/foil. I also used NOS Wima MKI2 PPS caps in a few early builds, before switching to FKP2 - I couldn't really tell the difference between the two, but MKI2 is pretty much unobtainium now, even on EBay. There are some Panasonic ECH-U SMD PPS film caps that may be a good sub for MKI2.
Hi Siva, glad you are watching. I'd welcome any confirmation and or challenge to my test results. We just got a "One Man FE Band" here in Michigan so far. Would be great to hear what you think about other positions.
BTW, are you offering assembled MyRef amps to the general public?
BTW, are you offering assembled MyRef amps to the general public?
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Hi Siva,
nice to read you here. 🙂
I hope they're not like Evox PFR (polypropilene film/foil), I've been disappointed by them: magnetic wires that ruined their possible good sound, worse than a metallized cap.
Sadly I don't know of any PPS film/foil... any suggestion?
nice to read you here. 🙂
I hope they're not like Evox PFR (polypropilene film/foil), I've been disappointed by them: magnetic wires that ruined their possible good sound, worse than a metallized cap.
Sadly I don't know of any PPS film/foil... any suggestion?
Nothing to be sorry of...
Bob's dedication to the beta spirit is exemplary 😎
He invested the money and had the patience and skill to try and review all parts proposed by me and Madisonears (Audyn True Copper) even when they looked silly like the IsoTek and component orientation or costly like the Caddocks, Audyns and Mundorf MLGOs.
His contribution to the fine tuning of the beta Fremen Edition has been precious and much appreciated. 🙂
"I tried golf, booze, sex, flying and employment - all presented unwanted complications. Thusly, I've determined the pursuit of musical nirvana to be the only valid human endeavor." 😀
Good catch - I just checked, and the Evox CFRs also have magnetic leads like the PFRs, which is a pity. ERO KC1850 film/foils are non-magnetic, however.
There is a Wima FKI2 PPS, most probably film/foil, but I can't find the datasheet and it's most probably discontinued. It used to be available from 100pF to 10nF, 100V to 400V, which would be potentially useful for C30, C32 and C7.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...edition-beta-build-fine-tuning-smdadapter.jpg
It appears you have invented the "Red Dog".
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There's a DIYer here who is on the latest FE group buy - hopefully, I'll be able to audition his boards after they're built, which may take a bit of time.
Assembled amps: Not yet - the main stumbling block here is a high-quality cabinet. The 8Audio cabinets are very nice, but a bit expensive. I use them for prototypes, and I might put the first X2 into one.
i found an offering for copper wirewound polystryene caps in 220pf & 150pf value. not sure how many of them he has left but i'd be happy to buy them up for you gents if you're interested.
they're the kind mr. nelson pass once said were his favorites. the copper foil is visible through the clear polystyrene film.
they're the kind mr. nelson pass once said were his favorites. the copper foil is visible through the clear polystyrene film.
I'm interested, can you give more details like manifacturer, series and approximate price?
Thanks in advance
Thanks for the datasheet - in some ways, FKI2 looks even better than FKP2. I had a few 220pF that went out in early kits before I switched to FKP2. I thought they were MKI2, but it seems now that they were FKI2 (Anthracite/Silver).
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