Transformer Volts
I saw an earlier post suggesting 24 or 25 VAC secondaries on the transformer. Is this like the My Ref C where 22 VAC is better for 4 ohm loads? Or a better question would be are their any problems with FE at 22 VAC? I am assuming that lower voltage would just limit the output voltage and max power, which are more than I would need anyway.
Thanks in advance.
I saw an earlier post suggesting 24 or 25 VAC secondaries on the transformer. Is this like the My Ref C where 22 VAC is better for 4 ohm loads? Or a better question would be are their any problems with FE at 22 VAC? I am assuming that lower voltage would just limit the output voltage and max power, which are more than I would need anyway.
Thanks in advance.
If there is a short or incorrect wiring, the bulb will absorb the energy. If everything is as it should be, the bulb will start out bright or glowing and quickly fade to off as the amp takes on the load. We are talking just a second or more. If the bulb doesn't dim turn off the power immediately.
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Are you sure the bulb is good, and did you hear the relays click at all? Also the higher the wattage of the bulb, the lower the glow will be. I start out with 40 - 60 W.
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When I flipped mine on the first time there was just a little bit of illumination across the filament. It did not light up as it would in a normal application like a lamp. I left it on for a few seconds then flipped it off. When I stopped smiling I flipped it on again. This time the bulb did not light and I measured everything. I attributed the lack of illumination on the second attempt to my power supply caps being charged(just an assumption as to the cause).
You could also remove the black and red wires on the transformer side of the Euro style terminal block temporarily and use your meter confirm that you have AC to that point.
I don't expect from the FE a different behaviour than the My_Ref with 4Ohm loads or 22V secondaries.
Joseph,
If relay don't click go back and start from basics.
Remove the bulb, disconnect the modules from transformers and power on.
Then verify you have AC out of the line filter, fuse continuity and secondaries (pay attention!).
If all is good then we could verify modules (post pics)
BTW I'm still convinced that phase is reversed...but it's not the problem.
Can you post a pic of line filter (front and rear) ?
While we wait - Dario, I did hear a change in the new caps after the IsoTek disk. The stage narrowed a bit. My speakers are 90” apart – tweeter to tweeter. At first play I could hear a cymbal 6 – 8 inches outside the left speaker. Now it is closer to the center, probably at the outside edge. There was also a reduction of “High Brightness” that to my ears is an improvement. The first shot, while stimulating and exciting, might have caused some listening fatigue with time.
I won’t do any comparative swapping till tomorrow, but what I am hearing is still disturbingly good. I just played that Copeland Organ Symphony I referred to earlier. The ambiance and the sense of being right in the giant cathedral was like magic – top to bottom, left to right and front to back. Being a little silly but true. sitting at the computer in the next room and listening to a Big Band album, I can hear trombone reflections like one would get by being close to but not in a live performance set.. That’s new.
Going to have to live with these caps a while before I say much more.
I won’t do any comparative swapping till tomorrow, but what I am hearing is still disturbingly good. I just played that Copeland Organ Symphony I referred to earlier. The ambiance and the sense of being right in the giant cathedral was like magic – top to bottom, left to right and front to back. Being a little silly but true. sitting at the computer in the next room and listening to a Big Band album, I can hear trombone reflections like one would get by being close to but not in a live performance set.. That’s new.
Going to have to live with these caps a while before I say much more.
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The bulb works in a lamp. There is a rotary switch on the tester. Turning it until it clicks and hooking up again, still no light.
I powered the amp without the tester, speakers hooked up. There is a light turn-on thump from the speakers but no sound. My source is a Walkman with a 1/8 stereo plug to two RCAs. The hot of the RCAs runs to the right of the fast-on (closest to the HS).
lehmanhill, ClaveFremen advises 22V secondarys for 4 ohm speakers. I know of no one who is using 22V secondarys with the FE at this time.
I powered the amp without the tester, speakers hooked up. There is a light turn-on thump from the speakers but no sound. My source is a Walkman with a 1/8 stereo plug to two RCAs. The hot of the RCAs runs to the right of the fast-on (closest to the HS).
lehmanhill, ClaveFremen advises 22V secondarys for 4 ohm speakers. I know of no one who is using 22V secondarys with the FE at this time.
So, basically, you confirm... 😉
The listeing fatigue can be due to the orientation.
Let me know which is your favourite one, after trying.
Yes they sound very very good, even after burn-in 😀
As they further burn-in they'll get better.
They're for sure the best cap I've tried so far but, nevertheless, I still think Zn (a bit bolder) can be a best match for a full 'industrial' build and a fine (inferior) cheaper alternative.
Now it's time to go to sleep... 2:18AM here..
I don't have LEDs. I did not hear the relays click, only a light thump from the speakers. Could that have been the speaker protection kicking in ?
At this point, I'm thinking of hooking up my Twisted Pear My_Ref and using one of the AS2224 to power them . I know the TP boards work and will be able to verify the bulb tester, fuse and IEC.
If it works I will know it is the FE. I guess I would reflow the solder joints on the smoothing caps and look for any dull joints. I'm kinda bummed.
At this point, I'm thinking of hooking up my Twisted Pear My_Ref and using one of the AS2224 to power them . I know the TP boards work and will be able to verify the bulb tester, fuse and IEC.
If it works I will know it is the FE. I guess I would reflow the solder joints on the smoothing caps and look for any dull joints. I'm kinda bummed.
Din't get discouraged. Please take some photos - straight down of both sides of the amp. It's amazing what others can see. It's late and you deserve a break. Get as many pictures as you feel are descriptive, get a good night's sleep and we can continue in the morning. We have all been in your situation more than once. 🙂
Yea, it's the wee hours for Dario. Think I'll take my wife to Sonic for ice cream.
Once it works, I can compare it with the Twisted Pear and a Audio Source Amp 2. I'll listen thru some Niles OS10 and my Dallas II fostex cabs. Before in invest in those copper C13 or better C3C8 I should build a DAC and populate my DCB1.
Once it works, I can compare it with the Twisted Pear and a Audio Source Amp 2. I'll listen thru some Niles OS10 and my Dallas II fostex cabs. Before in invest in those copper C13 or better C3C8 I should build a DAC and populate my DCB1.
Another path that I use is to (as Dario said) separate the amps from the toroid leads and tape them down in a row so they don't move around. Then test each blue-green pair for the correct voltage. Also make sure you haven't clamped to the insulation on the wires inside those Euro-style terminal blocks. Been there, done that.
Later.......
Later.......
I can't understand (my fault) if you wired correctly the input.
See the attached picture for reference.
A reversed connection can do strange things.
No, the speaker protection starts with output ground unconnected.
If no DC is present then it connects output ground to PGND.
It's not needed if you test secondaries like I and Bob suggested.
If something is wrong with transformers you risk to fry the TP modules...test secondaries first.
Some components (transistors, opamps, regs) are very heat sensitive.
Don't do it before posting pics and receive feedback on them.
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Two more Italians and, finally, a Brit! 😀
Where's the rest of the world? 😀
- ClaveFremen x 2 (IT)
- Suburra (IT)
- SoIL4x4 (US)
- Bmcbob (US)
- Randytsuch (US)
- alex70ita (IT)
- b.veneri (IT)
- StefanoSan73 (IT)
- diymax62 (IT)
- billo44 (UK/JP?)
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Where's the rest of the world? 😀
Its great to see more people join the list. I am excited to get this underway.
Dario even though this is a pre release run do you really expect to make any changes to the final run? When are you planning to have boards run?(not pushing just curious as to when I need to start ordering all the pieces and parts). Thanks again for doing this!
Dario even though this is a pre release run do you really expect to make any changes to the final run? When are you planning to have boards run?(not pushing just curious as to when I need to start ordering all the pieces and parts). Thanks again for doing this!
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