For magnetic levitation feets (even for high weights) check magaudio´s pages:
https://magaudio.de/magaudio-resonanzdaempfer/
I use them for my 36kg diy tt and they work fantastic
https://magaudio.de/magaudio-resonanzdaempfer/
I use them for my 36kg diy tt and they work fantastic
I don't know how these work, they say it relies on magnetic atraction...
I once made something similar but based on magnetic repulsion: think of a cylinder +piston like in a motor, only small and 3D-printed, with one magnet glued on top of the piston and an other magnet glued on top of the combustion-chamber. This alone acts like a spring, but when you put this in a copper tube, you add damping to the spring. The movement of the piston induces a current in the copper which counteracts the movement.
It was just an experiment and didn't work so good because the friction between the 3D-printed parts was to high but with other materials it should work
I once made something similar but based on magnetic repulsion: think of a cylinder +piston like in a motor, only small and 3D-printed, with one magnet glued on top of the piston and an other magnet glued on top of the combustion-chamber. This alone acts like a spring, but when you put this in a copper tube, you add damping to the spring. The movement of the piston induces a current in the copper which counteracts the movement.
It was just an experiment and didn't work so good because the friction between the 3D-printed parts was to high but with other materials it should work
Hm, it also looks like a cylinder-piston system.
The cylinder is vertically centered in the cylinder.
You´ll need aproximataly the same force to push the piston in as to pull the piston out.
It´s a patended design and I don´t know exactly how it works...
The cylinder is vertically centered in the cylinder.
You´ll need aproximataly the same force to push the piston in as to pull the piston out.
It´s a patended design and I don´t know exactly how it works...
I am also planning something similar:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/magnetic-feet.386906/
I had a look at your thread, thats exactly what I did. The vertical guidance should be low friction- that was my main problem.
Damping can be apllied with copper tubing around the moving magnet, or some turns of wire with both ends connected.
I will probably try it again with some low friction plastic from Igus...
There are usually better ways. Less fuzz and shake. The modeling software "may" have an "Export as video" function. The stock screen-grab in Windows only takes still pictures (if it wants to) but there are (hundreds of?) 3rd-party screen recorders that do movies, in the several operating systems.
Dear Ralf,
What a relief to see you are are still at it and willing to show us what you are doing.
I know you are in the prototype stage but would like to warn about using lead anywhere near an audio component. The stuff will do the textbook things well - it does add considerable mass in a compact space but it makes a mess of the sound.
After the proof of concept is made consider using nickel instead of lead.
Many have made interesting surmises of the "why" lead makes things sound flat and dead but there seems to be enough folks saying DON'T DO IT (just like teenage suicide in HEATHERS) to have meaning.
As far as suspending my large slate plinth - I have found 30 ppi reticulated foam blocks do a good job of damping the springs. Of course, they also act as springs but they not really carrying any weight - more like stabilizing the springs and plinth from wiggling around more than anything but there is more control of the rebound of the springs.
In my experience, a plinth must be sprung for the best bass reproduction. Maybe the three hundred thousand PLUS dollars monsters do not require springs - I will never know.
My plinth was made by OMA in simpler times.
What a relief to see you are are still at it and willing to show us what you are doing.
I know you are in the prototype stage but would like to warn about using lead anywhere near an audio component. The stuff will do the textbook things well - it does add considerable mass in a compact space but it makes a mess of the sound.
After the proof of concept is made consider using nickel instead of lead.
Many have made interesting surmises of the "why" lead makes things sound flat and dead but there seems to be enough folks saying DON'T DO IT (just like teenage suicide in HEATHERS) to have meaning.
As far as suspending my large slate plinth - I have found 30 ppi reticulated foam blocks do a good job of damping the springs. Of course, they also act as springs but they not really carrying any weight - more like stabilizing the springs and plinth from wiggling around more than anything but there is more control of the rebound of the springs.
In my experience, a plinth must be sprung for the best bass reproduction. Maybe the three hundred thousand PLUS dollars monsters do not require springs - I will never know.
My plinth was made by OMA in simpler times.
Hi rickmcinnis,
Is there any place on the internet where I can verify this?
I would be disappointed if that were true.
I would prefer to use Tungsten powder, but it is expensive.
Sincerely,
Ralf
Lead messing the sound...I can't believe all the people are allowed to vote and have an opinion, yet they obviously are!
I used solid mahogany wood and guns leads with glue for one of my Thorens TD 160 I had and sounded really great.
Rgds
Adelmo
Plenty of folks have said this over the years. Yes it is anecdotal but then what kind of scientific evidence has ever shown "good sound"?
Notice that no highly regarded tonearm uses lead as a counterweight even though it would be immensely cheaper and easier to implement.
I cannot think of a highly regarded turntable that uses lead as a component in the platter.
I wish lead was good for this purpose. It is cheap and compact for the weight. There must be a reason.
Notice that no highly regarded tonearm uses lead as a counterweight even though it would be immensely cheaper and easier to implement.
I cannot think of a highly regarded turntable that uses lead as a component in the platter.
I wish lead was good for this purpose. It is cheap and compact for the weight. There must be a reason.
Oh..really?! Dual 701 tonearm has lead counterweight(s)...it has two of them, each of them having its own damping.
B&O best turntables had a lead ring underneath the wave embossed alluminium platter. Dual 701 and 1219 have lead platters.Tell me they aren't highly regarded....Yet some of the older designs exhibit even lower ringing by using heavy cast iron plates...If some of the turntables you don't like use too cheap materials for the platter it would be useful to know that there are other aspects that are equally important and may have been treated cheaply.
You should never forget that no matter the platter material, there's always a rubber mat on top of it...Nakamichi Dragon CT and TX-1000 used a glass platter under the mat...I bet you never heard the glass though...
Agree,
Morsiani was using leads for his TA counter weight, if I am not wrong other manufacturer used a sandwich of copper/brass leads in the counter weight......
Audiomod if I am not wrong also use it, but list could be long indeed. Leads are polluted material so not trendy for green people.....
The main problem is that leads is soft and not shining and not easy to lathe/work, but have his good points and good matching point if well combined to other material.
Best regards
Adelmo
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