Hi DNic,
The radial run-out of the platter has nothing to do with it, but dynamic balance does.
I have "been there and done that" too, for 82 years.
Sincerely,
Ralf
Yes I read that - and it's why I posted. This is all about the bearing, and we don't get to see the bearing or know what it is. If the bearing is the subject, then we should see the bearing or at least know its principal.
Look what you have done to me making me spending money on old WV Passat 1.6 l parts : )
Attachments
@Studley The Link is to the Thread about the use of the Bamboo I would recommend, as it already has a science applied to the material, to confirm its attraction.
In another Thread, the same individual doing the testing, makes it known Newplast Sculture Putty can be added to a board to improve on the Damping.
I know one individual who used approx' 40mm Depth of Newplast with a Panzerholz Plinth. I do believe the Putty is now removed, as the P'holz only is most likely not offering the most attractive SQ.
https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=34347.msg442209#msg442209
In another Thread, the same individual doing the testing, makes it known Newplast Sculture Putty can be added to a board to improve on the Damping.
I know one individual who used approx' 40mm Depth of Newplast with a Panzerholz Plinth. I do believe the Putty is now removed, as the P'holz only is most likely not offering the most attractive SQ.
https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=34347.msg442209#msg442209
A bit off the topic - the always interesting and intelligent NareshBrd brought up the idea of using an hydraulic motor mount as an isolation device and that seems like an interesting idea. There is the fellow who sells the Magic Pebbles who uses air springs for this. The motor mounts could be a easier and superior approach. I use springs from McMaster Carr and would prefer something less unpredictable.
I am curious to know if there is an hydraulic engine mount suitable for even relatively heavy plinths? It seems they are expecting much heavier loads.
Have you found one that works well for turntable isolation?
Straight Tracker, I think you made all very clear at the start. I am sorry you keep having to answer the same questions over and over again. This site can have an inordinate amount of "gotcha" folks who only "get" themselves.
I do not see what is wrong with your staging of the project. As you said before you simply want to make sure you are on the right track before you proceed with information.
I look forward to reading that your tonearm project will be made available to those of us lacking machining skills and machines.
I am curious to know if there is an hydraulic engine mount suitable for even relatively heavy plinths? It seems they are expecting much heavier loads.
Have you found one that works well for turntable isolation?
Straight Tracker, I think you made all very clear at the start. I am sorry you keep having to answer the same questions over and over again. This site can have an inordinate amount of "gotcha" folks who only "get" themselves.
I do not see what is wrong with your staging of the project. As you said before you simply want to make sure you are on the right track before you proceed with information.
I look forward to reading that your tonearm project will be made available to those of us lacking machining skills and machines.
Hi rickmcinnis,
I was not aware that there is such a thing as hydraulic engine mounts. I thought engine mounts consisted of some kind of urethane. When I decided to design my own turntable, I had not given any thought as to how to suspend it. I am going to utilize several components in the Igus catalog for my turntable. While studying their catalog, I came across plastic Belleville springs which caught my attention. So, I am going to design foot pads using Belleville springs.
Sincerely,
Ralf
NareshBrd brought up the subject. A fluid damped rubber THING seems very useful but I would worry that the ones made for engine mounts would be much too stiff. Was hoping he knew of one that would work. I have an extra large slate plinth but still that is nothing compared to a motor.
You can even get motor mounts that allow control of their stiffness. First time I heard of this was when PORSCHE offereed these as an option. For comfort you leave it soft and when you want improved throttle response you can ask for them to be very stiff. I do not think those have any application with turntables.
Springs need damping which is very difficult to do for DIYers. I use some small 30 ppi blocks of foam with my setup though i know ti is not optimum it is better than them being left alone.
I like the idea of the air springs but they are much too bulky since they, too, were intended for automobiles.
I am enjoying your explorations. Best of luck since luck is one of the most useful of all things. As Napoleon asked when presented with a candidate for a generalship, "but is he lucky?"
Take care,
You can even get motor mounts that allow control of their stiffness. First time I heard of this was when PORSCHE offereed these as an option. For comfort you leave it soft and when you want improved throttle response you can ask for them to be very stiff. I do not think those have any application with turntables.
Springs need damping which is very difficult to do for DIYers. I use some small 30 ppi blocks of foam with my setup though i know ti is not optimum it is better than them being left alone.
I like the idea of the air springs but they are much too bulky since they, too, were intended for automobiles.
I am enjoying your explorations. Best of luck since luck is one of the most useful of all things. As Napoleon asked when presented with a candidate for a generalship, "but is he lucky?"
Take care,
I believe in air. A while ago, I bought some air cushions off eBay. I recently made some 3D printed seats for these cushions and also installed an air regulator to control the stiffness. However, it isn't practical for most people because the air cushions need compressed air. For me, it is no problem.
The stock 2002 Honda Accord 4cyl has one active motor mount. It goes soft-hard at some RPM point, perhaps to control engine shake at low RPM and high combustion pressure ("lugging"). I would speculate that it has an air chamber and an electric air valve. (However I have seen "vacuum" mentioned.) I have doubts that mine works..... the car can be a real jerk around 1100 RPM. However the documentation is so sparse that I don't even know if it is stock on the automatic or the manual (mine is manual). I think it is the mount which is least accessible.
Ah. Read here, scroll down-down-down. "Idling @ 800 in gear" so it is on the automatic. That matters because the row-box was only 1%-2% of US 2002 Accord Four production (and 0% of the Sixes made); the woods are full of automatic Accords.
https://www.speedyracer.com/Rear-Engine-Mount-for-98-02-Honda-Accord-2-3L-Automatic-A6564-
Yes, I think it is 10 times stiffer than anything you could bring in from the garage needs.
Super
What pressure are you using and what weight on each pad approximately ?
ALways wanted to try this but used Oracles progressive rate springs on one of may builds
What pressure are you using and what weight on each pad approximately ?
ALways wanted to try this but used Oracles progressive rate springs on one of may builds
How about magnetic levitation ? is not complex to be made. I made that in my floating TT and even knocking hard on the plinth the sound do not have any negative result. It isolate pretty well,
Rgds
Adelmo
Adelmo "How about magnetic levitation ? is not complex to be made. I made that in my floating TT and even knocking hard on the plinth the sound do not have any negative result. It isolate pretty well."
This seems a good 'Engineering' way to go to me at least, it is a passive (not powered) method so always going to be better in many ways, Neo magnets are very powerful and quite cheap. Must say though that I could not be arsed to finish my design and went with squashy elastomer dog toys of differing section under the plinth in the end! Woof Woof! Seems to work well enough.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384737758494?hash=item5994284d1e:g:eLwAAOSwS8diDK44
Mine I remember were seconds so a bit cheaper still.
Regarding the whole idea of 'Car parts to turntables' as a time killing project it's fine, have at it, but upgrading a $100 second hand turntable, improving bearing, platter mass/balance, drive/electronics, and improving suspension/decoupling is the way I would go. Hope I'm not being too negative. Pick a common unit, maybe have two and do before and after comparisons. If that way inclined one may possibly offer upgrade parts to other audio fans.
This seems a good 'Engineering' way to go to me at least, it is a passive (not powered) method so always going to be better in many ways, Neo magnets are very powerful and quite cheap. Must say though that I could not be arsed to finish my design and went with squashy elastomer dog toys of differing section under the plinth in the end! Woof Woof! Seems to work well enough.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384737758494?hash=item5994284d1e:g:eLwAAOSwS8diDK44
Mine I remember were seconds so a bit cheaper still.
Regarding the whole idea of 'Car parts to turntables' as a time killing project it's fine, have at it, but upgrading a $100 second hand turntable, improving bearing, platter mass/balance, drive/electronics, and improving suspension/decoupling is the way I would go. Hope I'm not being too negative. Pick a common unit, maybe have two and do before and after comparisons. If that way inclined one may possibly offer upgrade parts to other audio fans.
Last edited: