Hi enzedone, IMHO the counterweight should be like ring, with the gravity centre in the axle, with this you will avoid weird movements every time you lift the tonearm, brass or gunmetal is easy to machine and heavy. The original one does came with this type of counterweight.
IMHO your pipe construction is beautiful and original, I following your work. I like the combination of teka and brass/copper looks. I did build a table lamp in my dinning room with copper pipes.
Best Regards from the antipodes
IMHO your pipe construction is beautiful and original, I following your work. I like the combination of teka and brass/copper looks. I did build a table lamp in my dinning room with copper pipes.
Best Regards from the antipodes
Yes I agree.
Was looking at it last night, and really wanted a round one but I don't have any way of maching one at this stage. So will make another trip down to the hardware store and do some looking around, hmmmmmmmmm
Was looking at it last night, and really wanted a round one but I don't have any way of maching one at this stage. So will make another trip down to the hardware store and do some looking around, hmmmmmmmmm
Go to the hardware store and check for gunmetal or bronze bar, 3, 4 cm diameter, ask for a piece of ...2cm, go to home and put in a vise, with patient mark the centre and make a hole with your drill machine, then with a round file with care, bit a bit until you rise the diameter of the tonearm tube. Upon termination you have achieved so far with your arm. Should ensure the success of the finish of your goal
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I managed to buy a couple of 25mm brass end caps. drilled some holes and spent the last two days sanding them down to the required weight. I will put a sleeve inside using an arrow shaft. It is around 85grm.
So will see how this works out
Are also waiting for silicon to arrive 100,000 cst
So will see how this works out
Are also waiting for silicon to arrive 100,000 cst
Silicon arrived today.
I purchased mine from EBay, but you can also get it from here:
Team Associated - Champions By Design - Nitro and Electric RC Cars
No association with this site��
Just look under grease, oils on the left.
I purchased mine from EBay, but you can also get it from here:
Team Associated - Champions By Design - Nitro and Electric RC Cars
No association with this site��
Just look under grease, oils on the left.
Tell me the diameter of the tube, Soon I will make something for my WTL, maybe, when somebody make something for himself could make something for somebody there. Recently I had to paint a transformer cans with gold finish, I tried many aerosol paints with problems, finally I bring they to the galvanization lab and paid 6 euros per can for gold. No more problems in the life. Probably thick lide ten angstroms but gold. Maybe after sand with airsand finish you can gold it.
Ive also made a few minor changes to this design... Taken the paint off the arm tube & made a better aluminium head shell / for the Decca.
The counterweight is just 2 x 32mm brass olives filled with Lead & a 15mm olive with magic foam, witch slides nicely but grips the arm tube.
Which has All been made from bits n pieces.
The Deck is a Lenco GL78 & 'Nigel's speed Controller' are now in/on a nice Oak TV cabinet.
The counterweight is just 2 x 32mm brass olives filled with Lead & a 15mm olive with magic foam, witch slides nicely but grips the arm tube.
Which has All been made from bits n pieces.
The Deck is a Lenco GL78 & 'Nigel's speed Controller' are now in/on a nice Oak TV cabinet.
Jay
That's very good. Is that a very small metal link holding the thread in place just above the ball there?
I got some nylon thread from the fishing shop (very high strength, non stretch) as well. So will using that.
Tube measurements: I'll get back on that.
Counter weight; I have no tools, so everything has to be made by hand, hence simple solutions. Just spent days sanding and then clear coating. It would not be worth maching parts for this arm at this stage.
That's very good. Is that a very small metal link holding the thread in place just above the ball there?
I got some nylon thread from the fishing shop (very high strength, non stretch) as well. So will using that.
Tube measurements: I'll get back on that.
Counter weight; I have no tools, so everything has to be made by hand, hence simple solutions. Just spent days sanding and then clear coating. It would not be worth maching parts for this arm at this stage.
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JAY
That's very nice indeed!
Is that a little hook' holding line together?
My arrow sleeve is Easton Arrows 'Jazz' 1516 the smaller shaft tone arm slides inside that, but I can't remember size sorry. 1516 is about 6mm external diameter.
I would like to have things machined but just not worth it, just have to spend more time sanding.
That's very nice indeed!
Is that a little hook' holding line together?
My arrow sleeve is Easton Arrows 'Jazz' 1516 the smaller shaft tone arm slides inside that, but I can't remember size sorry. 1516 is about 6mm external diameter.
I would like to have things machined but just not worth it, just have to spend more time sanding.
Yes it is a link it made things a bit simpler.
The counterweight: lead sheet just cut with with scissors & stuffed & glued into olives no tools required..
The counterweight: lead sheet just cut with with scissors & stuffed & glued into olives no tools required..
Hears more info of the arm
http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=18334.msg259130#msg259130
http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=18334.msg259130#msg259130
WTL Tribute
Hi Everyone
Been a bit quiet recently as have had other projects on the go. I've been modifying my version and here are some pictures:
Hi Everyone
Been a bit quiet recently as have had other projects on the go. I've been modifying my version and here are some pictures:
I'm making my own WTL arm. 8od carbon fibre roll wrapped tube (for its good looks!).
What weight/diameter of fishing line is recommended? Have re-read most of the thread but can't find a specific size mentioned. I doubt its so critical but if anybody can state what worked for them I'd appreciate it.
What weight/diameter of fishing line is recommended? Have re-read most of the thread but can't find a specific size mentioned. I doubt its so critical but if anybody can state what worked for them I'd appreciate it.
Chris, are the most recent photos of the current state of your arm? If you are going for the anti skate effect of the WT design when set up as overhang (as the tracking angle tells me), the fishing line never touches itself. That's what I call a full twist. Old pics?
Fantastic Work ChrisG139
Just outstanding work!
I am gathering the materials to fabricate my own WTL tonearm. I just did a four day binge reading about Nanook's 219 and this thread.
Chris, in your implementation, what is beneath the black disk making contact with the silicone fluid?
Is your tube damped with some medium (plaster, lava sand, etc)?
I apologize if you had already posted the above, but after reading about so many tonearms - it is kinda hard to sort out what details belong to which implementation.
TIA
Just outstanding work!
I am gathering the materials to fabricate my own WTL tonearm. I just did a four day binge reading about Nanook's 219 and this thread.
Chris, in your implementation, what is beneath the black disk making contact with the silicone fluid?
Is your tube damped with some medium (plaster, lava sand, etc)?
I apologize if you had already posted the above, but after reading about so many tonearms - it is kinda hard to sort out what details belong to which implementation.
TIA
WTL Tribute Arm
Hi
My arm is damped with extremely fine silica obtained from a model shop-does a great job. The 'secret' underneath the disc is 5/8 of a golf ball. Got the idea from the latest WTL arms-it also ensures that everything is a true right angles too-and makes fabrication much easier than trying to drill a golf ball accurately. By the way, I use 7lb breaking strain line.
Regards
Chris
Hi
My arm is damped with extremely fine silica obtained from a model shop-does a great job. The 'secret' underneath the disc is 5/8 of a golf ball. Got the idea from the latest WTL arms-it also ensures that everything is a true right angles too-and makes fabrication much easier than trying to drill a golf ball accurately. By the way, I use 7lb breaking strain line.
Regards
Chris
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