Have you tried putting the tweeters on top of J and not on top of JMLC. It would be better to have your tweeter closer to your ear height. They don't radiate as much as your JMLC. Moving your JMLC 10cm may not be audible in a bad way. Getting your tweeters to your ear height though may be audibly better 
my hat off to the built quality of your speakers....
but,
with closed sides, your subs are more ripoles than SLOBs imho.
and again imho GPA woofers are a waste with slot loading because of slot resonances (any decent proaudio woofer would have been okay).
and finally, I wouldn't use SLOB/ripole over 80Hz because of the same resonances...
you seem to have the resources and the house for it; why not go infinite baffle for bass with 2x GPA woofers per side.
but,
with closed sides, your subs are more ripoles than SLOBs imho.
and again imho GPA woofers are a waste with slot loading because of slot resonances (any decent proaudio woofer would have been okay).
and finally, I wouldn't use SLOB/ripole over 80Hz because of the same resonances...
you seem to have the resources and the house for it; why not go infinite baffle for bass with 2x GPA woofers per side.
Thank you! Horns are fun, no doubt!
Lego for big boys.
Completed set. Later had the nuts replaced with furniture caps for a smoother look.
That back chamber blew me away...and gave me some ideas...
There is a plan for a different midbass horn, we'll se about the color then
i am selling mine. Case you or someone else is interested....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6MMRhrhmR4
Have you tried putting the tweeters on top of J and not on top of JMLC. It would be better to have your tweeter closer to your ear height. They don't radiate as much as your JMLC. Moving your JMLC 10cm may not be audible in a bad way. Getting your tweeters to your ear height though may be audibly better
Yes, I tried that configuration. It sounds OK, but I don't like the low soundfield it makes. For that configuration, the J-horn is to low. With a taller midbasshorn, which might be the near future, things might change.
IMO, it is more important to have the midrange up to about 5-8kHz at ear height than the tweeters.
Thanks for your input. It seems you have a lot of experience with SLOB and ripole speakers.
The main difference between a ripole and a SLOB is the compression of the rear wave. Most ripoles I have seen calculated by the holder of the copyright have a compression of 1:3 in the front, and "as much as possible" in the rear. The slob has no compression of the rear waves, and my version has a lot more front compression. I would have to disagree that it is a ripole from a technical point of view. It's not important what it is either way, the sound is...
The GPA woofers are not a waste at all. With the high front compression the choice of woofer becomes more important. The GPA sound WAY better than "any proaudio woofer" in both regular OB's and most definitely also in a SLOB of this size and configuration. All things matter when building a system, you can't take the drivers out of the equation and expect the same result...
Of course, there might be better drivers than the GPA 515Cs, but in both OB's and SLOBS they were a tried and tested woofer with a distinct quality and sound that I was after.
The slot resonances are a function of the depth and width of the slot, and they are not present from the bottom and up to 130hz. I have also tried 200hz crossovers with this setup with no audible or measurable issues.
I built the system after a lot of research and testing, prototype building and visiting a lot of custom sound installation. An IB is in no way able to provide the articulate bass definition of the slobs...There is just no way...
Yes, I think so too. That is why I have arranged mine from 2.4khz to 45khz at ear height. I put the tweeters near the JMLC 1000 as they play over 9.6khz, it won't have a problem being off centre. Keeping the mid-bass 10-15cm lower is more important for me. This whole thing is around 180cm for 4 channels.
Here it is, What do you think?
Here it is, What do you think?
Attachments
Thanks for the offer. However, I plan on a 100-650hz horn with two 12" drivers in each horn
Looks very good and sensibly laid out!
It all comes down to the frequency ranges of each driver
Yes, I am going for
100hz - 600hz with the uppebass horn using supravox 285-2000 with 2:1 throat compression and small back chamber
600hz - 2400hz with 2" throat, 200hz tractrix with Radian 850pb
2400hz - 9600hz with 1" throat, 600hz tractrix with Radian 850be-pb
9600hz - 45000hz with Fostex t500amkII
I have a tapped horn that I have built and it is very good for 20hz to 80hz, however I don't want to push it up to 100hz and prefer to keep it even lower (60hz or so). So I was interested in your bass solutions. If I could find something that would blend nicely and can play from 30 to 120hz, it would be really good.
you can check my thread @http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/266064-full-range-5-way-horn-project-14.html
100hz - 600hz with the uppebass horn using supravox 285-2000 with 2:1 throat compression and small back chamber
600hz - 2400hz with 2" throat, 200hz tractrix with Radian 850pb
2400hz - 9600hz with 1" throat, 600hz tractrix with Radian 850be-pb
9600hz - 45000hz with Fostex t500amkII
I have a tapped horn that I have built and it is very good for 20hz to 80hz, however I don't want to push it up to 100hz and prefer to keep it even lower (60hz or so). So I was interested in your bass solutions. If I could find something that would blend nicely and can play from 30 to 120hz, it would be really good.
you can check my thread @http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/266064-full-range-5-way-horn-project-14.html
I know these! Actually these are great for me, 30hz to 160hz with such efficiency! It would mean even better integration of upperbass lower cutoff for me. It would be around 160hz, no phasing, no group delay artifacts (although I am not sure if they are audible around 100hz where I will be trying)
These are behemoths and do not look easy to build!
These are behemoths and do not look easy to build!
yes indeed, i have experimented a lot with OBs, U, H, W and M frames.
my observation is that wherever there is a cavity there is a resonance,
and one should cross as far away from the resonance f as possible.
i am thinking of building my own ripole sub with a pair of 18" proaudio woofers,
but it will be a mono sub operating under 80hz (space limitation of London living).
i agree that altec/GPA drivers are amazing (i have the 416-8b).
but using them slot loaded, you are already changing the TS parameters.
they would probably still be better performers in the 80-200hz region.
but i don't think there will be much difference under 80hz.
hence my comment that GPAs might be overkill (you could pay a days worth of mobile phone bills in an African village instead)))
my observation is that wherever there is a cavity there is a resonance,
and one should cross as far away from the resonance f as possible.
i am thinking of building my own ripole sub with a pair of 18" proaudio woofers,
but it will be a mono sub operating under 80hz (space limitation of London living).
i agree that altec/GPA drivers are amazing (i have the 416-8b).
but using them slot loaded, you are already changing the TS parameters.
they would probably still be better performers in the 80-200hz region.
but i don't think there will be much difference under 80hz.
hence my comment that GPAs might be overkill (you could pay a days worth of mobile phone bills in an African village instead
)))
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