mutting transistors on the output of Marantz cd40 help!!!

[GoranB]

Thanks Bardos.

I'll go green then😉

Well, I've fired her up and it's another big step - very noticeable.
But after some tracks my plopping and clicking noise is taking over - it's a real pain in the *** 🙁
At least now I know I can move it into my good CD player and not worry about an explosion 🙂

Did you insulate your BD139's form the heatsink ?



Andrew

If you use one heatsink for both BD's its necessary to insulate them

 

[GoranB]

Hey Danico,

On my Pioneer i have a digital-optical output, do you have some circuit for TDA 1541A DAC? Maybe I can use the DAC from my dead player?

 

[GoranB]

Hey, guys, I have photos of my telefunken, sounds really good. Just PSU for DAC and PSU for audio stage allready sounds great!!

 

[AndrewGM]

Goran HI

Neat work as usual !

Your 7220 boad - the heatsinks are really small on the BD139's
How hot do they get and what ac voltage do you feed it in the telefunken ?

Andrew

 

[GoranB]

Goran HI

Neat work as usual !

Your 7220 boad - the heatsinks are really small on the BD139's
How hot do they get and what ac voltage do you feed it in the telefunken ?

Andrew

In this case i use 12V AC, but the chip is not SAA7220, dont worry if your BD's get hot on the saa7220, it was same in my case. Just use bigger heatsink and all will be fine.

 

[GoranB]

Adding the 2 x 18.000 uF 80V to the main board PSU results with better sound, more space between instruments, and more natural sound, this player still cant compare with modded cd40, but we are close 🙂.
Still lot to do here. Maybe wooden case.

 

[GoranB]

I also designed much smaller PCB for +(-) 5V. With small modifications it can be used for +(-)15V

 

[danico]

Yes, that is definitely smaller then mine. 🙂 Nice job on that Goran.

I just tried the ps on the 7220.
It makes much more different. (after Motorola 7805 reg.)
More punchy bass which goes very deep and more focust.
Also helped on the very highs.
After the NOS highs got a little shy but not anymore.

Tonight I build the 1541ps.🙂

 

[GoranB]

Nice job, im glad you are satisfied. Also nice parts you have there. I own you a board for 7310, in my case it gaves the best results. Do you want small or big one?

I hope the other board (tda 1541) will work well. Inform us abt.

Regards

 

[danico]

Nice job, im glad you are satisfied. Also nice parts you have there. I own you a board for 7310, in my case it gaves the best results. Do you want small or big one?

I hope the other board (tda 1541) will work well. Inform us abt.

Regards

Thanks. I let you know about the board if I will have time to the 7310.

Regards

 

[danico]

Almost got ready with the 1541 ps board. Still need some parts that I missing. Looks very cool and makes the TDA1541 sing very well.

 

[JonHarrison]

Danico, is there a schematic for this PSU pcb ?

 

[danico]

Danico, is there a schematic for this PSU pcb ?

Yes. It was taken from Ecdesigns treat. I can tell you with this PSU the TDA1541 takes a new level.

The 2 schematic were designed together by Goran.

 

[GoranB]

Hey Danico, good you fix it, I couldnt find any mistake in traces.

 

[danico]

Hey Danico, good you fix it, I couldnt find any mistake in traces.

Because there was no mistake on the board. The BC560 was dead in the -5V stage.
The RIFA cap looks funny on the board but those were the only caps I had.

 

[JonHarrison]

Thanks Danico, so are they a capacitor multiplier followed by a shunt regulator ?

 

[GoranB]

Because there was no mistake on the board. The BC560 was dead in the -5V stage.
The RIFA cap looks funny, they just deserve better PCBn the board but those were the only caps I had.

Maybe they look funny, but, that board was not designed for RIFA's.
BTW i use the rifa's u send me as a cap cluster to the output of my amp. Before I had Sprague, im not so sure but i think that rifa's sounds better.

 

[GoranB]

Thanks Danico, so are they a capacitor multiplier followed by a shunt regulator ?

You are right its a cap multiplier followed with a shunt regulator. In the case of +5V and -5V its only one green led, for the -15V you will need a three green led's.

 

[JonHarrison]

Thanks Goran. I have an Arcam Alpha and an Alpha 5 to modify when I find time, I was thinking of doing a protoboard psu for the DAC along similar lines to this or one of the other various shunt regulator designs which are floating around. 🙂

 

[GoranB]

Danico, if u have a chance to use faster transistors then BD's you'll achieve better resuluts, also instead of darlingtons there is a posibility to use 2 transistors, the result witll be better sound too.