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Muses Volume

"Could you please explain to me how in Muses72323 an unbalanced signal is converted into a balanced signal?"

The Muses is just the equivalent to a 2-gang pot.

It CANNOT convert SE signal to balanced on its own.
For that you need a SE to BAL converter first.
The simplest of these is a capacitor coupled phase splitter.
https://wiki.analog.com/university/courses/alm1k/alm-lab-phase-split

After you have converted to BAL, you can then use the Muses to attenuate the BAL signal.
Just as you can, by using a normal 2-gang pot.


Patrick
 
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"Could you please explain to me how in Muses72323 an unbalanced signal is converted into a balanced signal?"

The Muses is just the equivalent to a 2-gang pot.

It CANNOT convert SE signal to balanced on its own.
For that you need a SE to BAL converter first.
The simplest of these is a capacitor coupled phase splitter.
https://wiki.analog.com/university/courses/alm1k/alm-lab-phase-split

After you have converted to BAL, you can then use the Muses to attenuate the BAL signal.
Just as you can, by using a normal 2-gang pot.


Patrick
But according to meldano documentation, such an option like on the picture is possible, even meldano itself confirmed it in the post #360.
 

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hi, I purchased the controller from Meldano a while ago. In the last months I designed the pcb’s based on this controller in the way they suited me best. Two flat cables connect the main board to the relais board and operating board mount on the front panel.

The pcb’s are assembled as minimum as possible in order to test all functionalities.
After cleaning the pcb’s and connecting everything. I followed Meldano instructions and.... I was able to control all. The 0,25dB steps are really small, 1dB suited me best.
I used a 24steps encoder.

Now I can complete the PCB’s and redraw the operating pcb according frontpanel design. And build everything in an eclosure with my Blowtorch clone preamp.

THANKS Meldano, to make this design and controller available for us!
 

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Your english is great—as is this project—and for that I'm massively grateful.

The issue is entirely my own—via lack of knowledge (and overly visually oriented)—I have no idea what percentage of knowledge-starved individuals I represent on DIY audio so I always assume the lowest end of who might be attempting DIY efforts. I believe we represent the ultimate in the search for "what's good for us", but I digress. Even with stuff I feel I know something about—I still keep in mind a "beginner's mindset". This keeps a constant state of learning in action, for me.

No, the instructions aren't clear—to me. Otherwise I'd have a working V2 and wouldn't have asked in the first place—I also might not have truly tried to understand the schematic—so, win win for me. If you had put the red jumper line on the V2 image, like the V1 image—I would have heard music (I think :D). But then at least one person (aljordan, it seems) wouldn't have been helped either! I don't mind asking stupid/obvious questions in public. I have nothing to prove.
Older post, but I am sure appreciative as I will have all these questions and more. Just now starting to sort this out. I have seen you post the finished product, so I know its a happy ending!

Russellc
 
Older post, but I am sure appreciative as I will have all these questions and more. Just now starting to sort this out. I have seen you post the finished product, so I know its a happy ending!

Russellc
Hey Russellc,

I don't actually have a working V2. I have 3 working V1s, 2 deployed in preamps (one in the DCG3 you just completed with excellent results)... since I picked up a bunch of boards early on. Meldano has a superb design/setup here for certain. I have no idea where my V2 build went awry.... At some point I will just start fresh with new boards/chips when I need the best volume control money can buy :p. They are in the bin waiting... Could be I fried something inadvertently—I did replace a few components at the time I was trying to figure it out. I use an air pencil (? not sure what they are called—super hot air) for the SMD work. MUCH easier—so, I'm not convinced I killed anything... I also lack the skills to actually technically diagnose—I'm working on that... takes time! I'm sure you will have excellent results if you build one!!! Don't let anything deter you.
 
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Thanks for the heads up on your builds with MUSE. Once I get the Ubib power supplies installed and working, MUSE is next. I have 3 other preamps I would like to put them in, (as well as Ubib power supplies) BA3 (x2) and BA 2018 linestage. Not a fan of the SMD, but got through a few BA 2018 builds with regular Hakko solder station, so I will muddle through.

The way SMD is creeping into DIY it looks like one of those hot air stations (and desoldering station) soon enough. in mean time I have had luck with getting a tiny bit of solder on a pad, place and hold device in place while heating the foot on the pad, sticking it. Others soldered, then go back and flow the original pad.

This is one of those "build" periods, sat on Sala's phono and DCG3 for an extended spell. Completed both of these, building another "slim and trim" DCG3, New AlephJ configuration board, Sissy sit and put finish 3rd BA 2018 line stage iteration. Also, for the first time in a LONG time, a new speaker. Seriously contemplated the Monkey Coffin build, but have zeroed in on this:

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/xsd-speaker-crossover-and-waveguide-gb.386316/

......and here:

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-xsd-speaker.385717/

Several features that have interested me the past decade or so, this bass alignment, and the whole OB thing. This seem to have it all for my purposes. It will also be substantially less expensive. One driver is on backorder, but there is a lot of time. We need 2 more for the group buy, join in! surely you need another speaker!

Russellc