MTM with TC9fd

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#22
gkh said:
Noob question:

Due to space restrictions, I would have to place the boxes on their long side. Would this affect sound? Listening distance would be nearly 3 meters, anyway.

Greets from Vienna
Gerald
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Turning an MTM on it's side makes the horizontal directivity much worse but improves the vertical. Usually a bad a idea as Horizontal directivity is the more important.
 
#24
I took my Nola prototype and added the Dayton tweeter between the existing TC9's, fit was perfect. The internal open back box dimensions is about 6" x 5-1/4" x 11", smaller than adasons. I used a .22mH coil and 3.3uF cap and no resistor. My measurements are pretty good, but not as nice as adasons. Sound wise, these ARE better than the Nola, IMO. I'm running them over a pair of Dayton RS225P-8A 8" woofers. Cabinet is a Z-frame that xrk built in another thread.

-Ken
 

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#27
ewollowe said:
Nice work Kec, I have questions 🙂

How are you finding the Z frameS?

What frequency you crossing over at?

Got a link to the xrk thread?
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Thanks. I like the Z frames very much, they get pretty low. I have them crossed at 150 using miniDSP 4x10. XRK used the aluminum cone RS225's, I used the paper ones.

The XRK link is here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...-aperture-z-baffle-dipole-11.html#post4297224

And here's another,bigger Z frame I did using the GRS 12PF woofers. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/123512-ultimate-open-baffle-gallery-229.html#post5043932
 
#29
kec said:
Thanks adason, great job on this one
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Sometimes I get lucky.

Recently I was working on 5FE120 and Neo3 combo, and that gave me hard time. Looking at 5fe120 fr response, it should be good for 100-4000 range, with minimal crossover needs. However, real measurements differed slightly, and there were two bumps, break up peaks, which were audible and irritating. I wanted to cross it high, because I did not want Neo3 to distort, so I had to use 4th order LR on mid. I used second order on tweeter. Still work in progress, promising, but not there yet.

One really great sounding combo was Aurum Cantus AC130F1 and Fountek ribbon. One coil and one cap, and ruler flat response.
 
#30
adason said:
here is just a suggestion, an alternative to Nola Brio Trio, or Mini Karlsonator with Dual TC9fd-18-08...

So I converted Nola Brio Trio to typical MTM with small Dayton dome. Quick and dirty crossover, measurement and listening lead to an amazing sounding neutral speaker. I have not saved the measurements, but it was exceptionally flat. I may redo the measurements once I paint the foam core.
If you need HiFi bookshelf, built this one...
If you run it from 150Hz with sub, you will love it.
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Hi Adason,

My calculations show that an Inductor of 0.18 to 0.2 mH in series with two
Vifa TC9FD18-08 in parallel will block frequencies higher than 3500 / 3200 Hz to these. A Capacitor of 3.3 /4.7 uF to Dayton ND20FB04 will pass frequencies higher than 12000 / 8500 Hz to the Tweeter.

How does this work ?

Thanks!

Jayant
 
#31
It works perfectly...as a matter of fact it's one of the best sounding cheapest speakers I ever build in 20 years.
I adjust crossover parts based on real life measurements, to achieve flat fr response on axis and off axis. What you see in first post works.
Feel free to follow your calculations.
 
#32
adason said:
It works perfectly...as a matter of fact it's one of the best sounding cheapest speakers I ever build in 20 years.
I adjust crossover parts based on real life measurements, to achieve flat fr response on axis and off axis. What you see in first post works.
Feel free to follow your calculations.
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Adason,

Thanks for your reply. I have recently built the Brio Trio Clone and face the similar issues as outlined by you. However the TC9 Drivers I used are 12 Ohms special run version and the Tweeter I could get my hands on is Dayton Audio ND20FA-6.

I was just trying to understand a starting point for the Inductor and Capacitor, given the difference in impedances of the drivers.

Jayant
 
#35
nola trio project

I have the wood cuts for the nola trio, done with 3/4 inch birch. not assembled yet. looks like my bass chamber will be a bit smaller than usual due to extra wood thickness? wondering whta i can do to get more as ive read they have not much bass. should i get those tweeters and place in between tcd9's but more to the inner inner side? Thank you!
 
#38
Adason, Thank you very much for your reply. I will use them as desktop to listen in nearfield with subwoofer beneath my desk. With this setup, is the tweeter necessary or to change the original brio clone box shape? I will listen to all kinds of music. Should i put one driver them more inside the cabinet and (say the top one with cap) and put the lower one more to the outside(bottom with no cap) to avoid the symmetry issue mentioned in previous post? should i pout a cap to satellites to cut low bass beneath say 100hz? will this affect sound? Thanks!
 
#40
Jstevensiam said:
Adason, Thank you very much for your reply. I will use them as desktop to listen in nearfield with subwoofer beneath my desk. With this setup, is the tweeter necessary or to change the original brio clone box shape? I will listen to all kinds of music. Should i put one driver them more inside the cabinet and (say the top one with cap) and put the lower one more to the outside(bottom with no cap) to avoid the symmetry issue mentioned in previous post? should i pout a cap to satellites to cut low bass beneath say 100hz? will this affect sound? Thanks!
Click to expand...

Not clear what exactly are you asking...
 
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