I think the math is fuzzy on that one. All connections to the transformer (both on the primary and secondary side) need to be taken into account. It's all spiky currents. The question is which you'll get the highest coupling from; the transformer leakage field or the primary/secondary wires to the transformer. In the end, unless the mains couple into the MOD86 input as a differential signal, it'll act like a disturbance to the composite loop where it'll be reduced by >200 dB of loop gain.
I've played with various placements of transformers and Power-86 board in relation to the MOD86 board. I have not found any way to increase the residual mains hum. The MOD86 basically doesn't seem to care. Amazing what good PSRR and CMRR will do for you.
Tom
Along mentions in the ebay listing about custom cutting. I'll probably inquire for the next project if they have the right chassis. It might not be too much since they are already making the holes for their included IEC/fuse module.
I use both these methods.
A selection of small and medium files and needles files helps a lot.
A hole buy enough for a coping saw blade in each corner and a coping saw which allows you to rotate the blade 90 degrees if the throat is not deep enough to reach the centre of the plate from the far edge works for me. Then, a sharp file does a quick job bringing the rough edge of to the line. I have a square file with an edge grinded smooth to work one side of a corner at a time.
Here is a photo of my drill press setup for the round holes.
Attachments
If you want to do it the easy way, stick with round holes. I use a separate round fuse holder and round mains entry (Neutrik Powercon). The square switches, mains entry, etc are cute but do you really want to have to file all of these??? Ugh.
The $5 Radio Shack nibbler tool makes clean sharp corners for square or rectangular holes once you drill or punch main rounds out. Very handy. A much tougher pro version is available from Klein tools but for most thin aluminum panels my Radio Shack nibbler is great.
I understand. I do have some shrink tube, and I can see how that will keep it neat and tidy.
My Mod86 boards arrived a few days ago. I'm getting ready to place a Mouser order soon.
I've been thinking about getting a better soldering iron. Years ago I got an inexpensive one, but the chisel tip disintegrated long ago. It seems I can only find conical tips at my local hardware store, so I'm thinking about getting a new soldering iron.
I don't really want to blow a hundred bucks on a soldering station, but it might be nice to have adjustable heat setting, and I see a couple of that look to be in my price range.
I saw one with a Ceramic Tip, that's a new one on me. Also it says " ESD-safe design makes it a great tool for precision solder work on and around electrostatically-sensitive components." I'm just wondering if that's important feature for a soldering iron or is it a gimmick?
Regards,
AlexQS
Cool!! Happy building.
"Local hardware store". Say no more...
It's served you well, but it's time for an upgrade. There're quite a few threads on which soldering iron to choose and as many opinions as there are participants on the threads. Here is my opinion:Buy a good tool. Buying a good quality tool hurts once - when you reach for your wallet to pay for it. Buying a crappy tool hurts every time you use it. So that's where I'm coming from.
There are two features that are absolute must-haves for me:
- Temperature control
- Replaceable tips
The temperature control does not need to be continuously variable or even adjustable on the fly. I just want the temperature to be relatively constant when I'm working. I tend to use 600 ºF (315 ºC) or 700 ºF (375 ºC) tips.
The replaceable tips are a must-have. Being able to install a 1.0 mm chisel tip for SMD work, a 1.6 mm chisel for leaded, and 6.3 mm chisel for when you really need the thermal mass and contact area is priceless.
Yes. I prefer chisel tips. That's my personal preference. I find they're the ones that can provide enough contact area without overheating the components.
I have personal experience with two brands that I will recommend: METCAL and Weller.
My current soldering station is a METCAL MX-500 that I picked up in practically brand new condition for dimes on the dollar during the 2008 recession. I have both the regular hand wand and hot tweezers (nice for SMD rework!).
In the METCAL, the temperature is controlled by the tip and the heater is all the way down by the tip. This means nearly instant heat. I absolutely love it. Tips are changed by pulling them out of the wand and the soldering station comes with silicone pads so you can do this even when the tips are hot.
My previous soldering iron (still works, and I use it on occasion if I need something a bit more portable than the METCAL) was a Weller TCP, which I purchased in 1988. That's the workhorse soldering iron of many European electronics labs in the 1980ies and beyond. The TCP is practically indestructible. Changing the tip involves undoing a nut and removing the tube holding the tip. It's recommended that you allow the iron to cool before swapping the tip, so in that respect it's not as flexible as the METCAL. The temperature is controlled by the tip via the curie effect.
In the US, I've noticed a Weller WTCP, which is slightly different but functionally equivalent to the TCP.
The Weller WES-51 is interesting as well. That's more of a soldering pencil. That one has a knob on the front for adjusting the temperature and the heater is pretty far down into the tip, though the heating element is part of the wand and not the tip. For SMD and leaded parts, the WES-51 is great. For larger parts, such as connectors, power pads (exposed DAPs), etc. you may want to have more heat capacity (more tip metal) available than the WES-51 has to offer.
If you're pretty serious about building electronics and expect to keep going for years to come, I'd get a METCAL. I believe they're owned by OKI now, so look for that name as well.
If you don't want to spend that much money, get a Weller WTCP.
Those are my recommendations based on my own personal experience with the products.
Tom
Hakko is pretty much equivalent to Weller and sometimes a bit cheaper. Neither's quite as good at delivering tip heat as the RF induction approach OK International acquired from Metcal. But both Hakko and Weller units get the job done easily where uncontrolled irons pretty much fail. The cost riser for OK or used Metcal kit's not that large though; IMO worth it to spend the extra.
I'm not sure how old the Metcal SP200 I picked up used is but OK bought Metcal in 1996. So it's gotta be coming up on 20 years, more likely comfortably past that.
I'm not sure how old the Metcal SP200 I picked up used is but OK bought Metcal in 1996. So it's gotta be coming up on 20 years, more likely comfortably past that.
I thought of including Hakko, but I have no personal experience with them, so I'm reluctant to make a recommendation.
I forgot to touch on the question of ESD safe soldering stations. It's not a gimmick. ESD precautions are a must in a production environment. For the casual DIYer, it's less of a selling point as the rest of the workstation is likely not ESD compliant anyway.
Tom
I forgot to touch on the question of ESD safe soldering stations. It's not a gimmick. ESD precautions are a must in a production environment. For the casual DIYer, it's less of a selling point as the rest of the workstation is likely not ESD compliant anyway.
Tom
For the occasionnal diyer, the Solomon soldering stations (sl-20 or sl-30) are more than decent. The sl-20 is about 75€ and I prefer it in use to the weller irons I've tried under 200€. I must confess I've no experience with more expensive stations. Iirc, I bought it on anatech's suggestion.
Tips are easy to find online for those models and reasonably durable.
Tips are easy to find online for those models and reasonably durable.
I've got a Hakko 936ESD which I've had for about 15 years, and a Metcal MX500 which I got from work broken last year and fixed. The Metcal has a bit more grunt for doing heavy connectors/whatever and I greatly prefer its ergonomics, but I'll definitely recommend the Hakko.
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I really appreciate the replies. I realized just after I posted that I'm really off topic, but still appreciated. I imagine too that the ESD will be less important (for me) because I'll be using the sockets and not soldering the THAT ic parts directly, still I always ground myself before I open those anti-static-electricity bags anyway.