Modulus-86 build thread

Test Results DC Offset and Gain
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Predulus-86?!?
LOL <snort> 🙂

Yeah. A preamp is the logical next step. I do offer all the puzzle pieces: Input Selector, Selector Switch & Volume Control, Universal Buffer, Preamp Power Supply. I even have a guide for how to string them all together into a preamp: The Ultimate Guide to (a Neurochrome) Preamp Design. But it would be nice with something that's a bit more complete - and maybe with a chassis option - rather than the current collection of puzzle pieces. I have some ideas...

Tom
 
Hello,

What is a good alternate for the LM337LZ/NOPB LM317LZ/NOPB pair?

The usual safe suspects like Mouser, Digikey or Newark don't have them in stock and delivery is 2024.

Not sure if I trust TEM or LCSC to ship legit parts, any alternate sources likely to ship not fakes?.

Capacitors UPW1H102MHD and UPM1H220MED1TD are also out of stock in 50v, but it looks like 63v are in stock and are the same dia with the same lead spacing.

Seems like everything else is in stock for the Modulus-86!

Thank you,

David.
 
Just search for LM317L on Mouser/Digikey/et al. Select TO-92 (or TO-92-3) for the package and enable the "in stock" filter. Do the same for the LM337L.

Currently Mouser has 67,116 of the LM317LZ by STMicro. How many boards are you planning to build? 😉

The LM337L is trickier as I think TI is the only manufacturer. Mouser has 3900+ in stock of the LM337LZ/LFT3 from TI.

The capacitors are easier. Any substitute will work as long as it's the same capacitance, same diameter, same pin spacing, and same or higher voltage rating. For the ceramic capacitors you also need to pay attention to the dielectric. If I specify C0G/NP0 you do want C0G/NP0. X5R, X7R, and X8R are interchangeable.

Tom
 
Wow. Sourced and sorted for basically the raw parts cost.
Yeah. I may have to nudge the price up a bit if/when I get someone else to pack the kits for me. At one point Digikey offered to package orders as kits as well. That could be an option as well if the cost is reasonable. It all depends on how well the kits sell.

Right now the limiting factor is LM3886 availability. I have some orders in with Digikey. One of those was placed a year ago and I would imagine that it'll ship sometime soon. The last update from Digikey basically said, "we'll ship when we have parts - whenever that might be".

Now we need a stop-action video of each part walking itself to the board, inserting itself, and soldering itself in. <ducks>
There aren't enough rotten tomatoes in the world, buddy... 🙂

Tom
 
Tom, I have no way of knowing if this is annoyingly more work for you, or actually helpful because it makes your parts stretch further: I have a couple of unused LM3886 lying around. Would you be willing to sell me a stereo kit WITHOUT them?

And an unrelated question about the LM3886DR: Its specs are good enough that I'd like to build that one, too, but I worry about the PSRR, since I'd definitely want to pair it with a fairly inexpensive SMPS. How much worse than your measured specs should I expect e.g. with the Connex SMPS that you mention as an option on the Modulus page? Or with something cheaper, like this: https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/smps-power-supply/switching-power-supply-module-700w-30v-p-15592.html
 
Tom, I have no way of knowing if this is annoyingly more work for you, or actually helpful because it makes your parts stretch further: I have a couple of unused LM3886 lying around. Would you be willing to sell me a stereo kit WITHOUT them?

Yep. I can do that. Given the current supply chain issues I'm willing to make my supply of LM3886 stretch as far as possible. That benefits everybody.

I do not want to get into a habit of modifying the kits once they're packed, though, so picking out the LM3886 from the kit is the only customization I'll agree to.

The best way to go about this is to order a kit and immediately after send me an email to pick out the LM3886es. I'll then refund you $10. You can do this by adding @neurochrome.com to my username here or by using the Contact Us form on my website.

And an unrelated question about the LM3886DR: Its specs are good enough that I'd like to build that one, too, but I worry about the PSRR, since I'd definitely want to pair it with a fairly inexpensive SMPS. How much worse than your measured specs should I expect e.g. with the Connex SMPS that you mention as an option on the Modulus page? Or with something cheaper, like this: https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/smps-power-supply/switching-power-supply-module-700w-30v-p-15592.html
I probably did measure that at some point. I'm pretty sure I measured that on some late night in the Spring of 2014 on the AP SYS-2700 I had access to at the time. If I did take that measurement, I don't recall the results. That's probably a data point I should have, so I'll see if I can get to that once I get my lab fully set up.

The Connex SMPS300REh is already pretty cheap (or affordable if you will). I don't think I'd go cheaper.

Tom
 
I managed to make a huge mess on my table and made it to first power up with no magic smoke!
+/-36VDC going to the boards. Virtually zero DC offset and AC noise at the outputs. I have yet to rig up some sort of input connection. I have to give my back a break, though. :spin: Success so far, more progress tomorrow. This arrangement is definitely just for testing. I’ll sort out a chassis later.
 

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Who am I kidding? Tomorrow!? Ha! 😆
Everything works very well. Sounds very clear and detailed through my test speakers. Even with this absolute rat’s nest of wiring, it’s ABSOLUTELY SILENT when the music is paused. And when it’s playing… Wow. Now I know what an ultra-ultra-low distortion amplifier sounds like. 😎

I believe I have a keeper here. VERY welcome in the von Ahdio HiFi Stable.

I gotta sort out a chassis ASAP.

Thanks again, Tom. The Modulus86 is a DIY gem!

🍻
 

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Hello Tom,

A question about building a single channel mono Modulus 86,

How would you wire an 2 gang Alps 10K RK271 to use as an balanced input volume control?

Would an imbalance between the gangs cause a problem?

Is there a higher quality pot that would better maintain the +/- balance of the input, i.e. Tocos or TKD or Audio Note or does it matter? I don't want to go to a stepped attenuator as I think the resolution is too low, although I will if it proves necessary.

Thank you,

David.