iv been toying with a few ideas for not having to tap threads i will be mounting my face plate soon and will be opting for drilling a hole half way into the metal as i dont want bolts/screws showing on face plate then using some type of thread insert which will either glue, cement or pressure fit( not sure yet)
i am building my enclosure from scratch so have had to get past any problem that involves tapping threads as im rubbish at it
i am building my enclosure from scratch so have had to get past any problem that involves tapping threads as im rubbish at it
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still in mock up form i needed to build it to same size as pre amp.
front and back will be 12mm cast aluminum which is ground flat the top and bottom plate will also be 6mm cast as i was not happy with 4 mm plate all of it had a slight bend making the build not square so you live and learn and now i will be using cast for all further builds
front and back will be 12mm cast aluminum which is ground flat the top and bottom plate will also be 6mm cast as i was not happy with 4 mm plate all of it had a slight bend making the build not square so you live and learn and now i will be using cast for all further builds
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Erm Tapping is fairly (dead?) easy Practice
Far more effort/ hassle to do workarounds in avoiding thread tapping... than to actually 'tap' it in the first place.
Tapped holes that don't go fully through is prolly Why.. God gave bottoming taps .
IF really Timid ? epoxy (weld even) a nut onto the item.. making for an Instant threaded hole/mount.
Erm Tapping is fairly (dead?) easy Practice
I agree. Here are some tips for making tapping easy:
- Use the correct size drill bit (consult the interweb for a chart).
- Drill the hole straight. Use a drill stand or a drill press.
- Drill a small hole first, then drill the final diameter.
- Use a tapping block. You can make one yourself pretty easily.
- Use cutting fluid. I recommend A-9.
- Get a quality tap. I use spiral flute, TiN coated ones.
- Go slow. Get the tap started. Then for every half or 3/4 turn, turn the tap back half a turn to break the chip.
- If you're tapping blind holes, be careful as you approach the bottom of the hole. Learn to feel the difference between the cutting action and the tap hitting the bottom of the hole.
It's not a hard skill to learn. It just takes a little practice.
Tom
Remember if you break the tap an easy-out won't help you.
"Ask me how I know..."
Yeah. Last time I did that, I used a grinder to grid the protruding bits of tap off, turned the heat sink upside down, and started over. That was many years ago. 20+ if not 25+ years...
Tom
OK I bought the Mod 86's 5 years ago and loaded the PCB's then moved 1100km. Finally got them finished last week and have been listening to them for about a week.
They replaced XY LM3886 modules.
I can say I am very impressed. The detail especially in the mid to upper mid is very outstanding. It is very noticeable on acoustic guitar and high hats.
Second pic is the old XY which donated its chassis for the Mod86's the third pic is the separate power supply.
Happy Camper
They replaced XY LM3886 modules.
I can say I am very impressed. The detail especially in the mid to upper mid is very outstanding. It is very noticeable on acoustic guitar and high hats.
Second pic is the old XY which donated its chassis for the Mod86's the third pic is the separate power supply.
Happy Camper
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Just getting setup to tap the heatsinks, This maybe a bit of overkill but it's what I have..
Seriously I do tap M3 with this but I use HSS spiral flute taps and do not tighten the chuck so the tap will spin rather than break. I was using carbon taps but they break easily. Lastly use a good tapping lubricant DO NOT use regular oil.
Seriously I do tap M3 with this but I use HSS spiral flute taps and do not tighten the chuck so the tap will spin rather than break. I was using carbon taps but they break easily. Lastly use a good tapping lubricant DO NOT use regular oil.
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Hi Warrjon
you use a seperate PSU-case that a good idea. in your amp case you need a psu too to staiblizes the voltage/power - how much is sufficient?
do you have a pic?
thx
chris
Yes I have 2 x 25amp ± regulators in the amplifier case, I left these in as the transformers are 2 x 300VA ±36v, and I run the Mod 86's at ±27v
You can see the regs in the 2nd photo towards the front. I had to move them to the rear now as the Mod 86 boards are now mounted to the front.
The amp is 4ch as my speakers are biamped and there was no room in the case for the transformers. My system was originally designed to run at full volume and not clip.
You can see the regs in the 2nd photo towards the front. I had to move them to the rear now as the Mod 86 boards are now mounted to the front.
The amp is 4ch as my speakers are biamped and there was no room in the case for the transformers. My system was originally designed to run at full volume and not clip.
That's definitely a drool-worthy setup.
You can get a chuck designed for tapping. I imagine it's expensive as it has a reduction gear inside, but that could be something to entertain if you cut a lot of threads.
Tom
I have one of those but its an MT2 and my mill is NT40 and no adaptor. Also they still break M3 taps. My mill has a tapping function where it automatically reverses at a set depth, but it will still break small taps.
I find it helpful to (a) use a small tap wrench with a short lever-arm, making it more difficult to accidentally apply too much torque; (b) discard the tap after 20-30 holes and install a new one; (c) reverse directions and pull the tap all the way out of the hole, every 4 or 5 rotations, wiping off the swarf; (d) use a special purpose cutting fluid like
https://www.amazon.com/Tap-Magic-20004A-Aluminum-4-oz/dp/B07CMNLYRL/
https://www.amazon.com/Tap-Magic-20004A-Aluminum-4-oz/dp/B07CMNLYRL/