Thanks for the filmtip, I like french comic movies but I try to avoid french drama. Will try to find "les ton tons flingueurs".
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hi Jp,
want to say thank you : I use the 1 uF Wima MKS2 you advice me yesterday for C4 (spidf input) instead of the 0,22 uF MKC. Big increase in sound quality with any doubt.
Here the MKC i have was bigger so the legs was longer. With the 1 uF the size of the cap is perfect. I cut the legs the shorter I can to fold up the legs on the golden contact on the pcb, soldering was maid at 400° very fast to have a bright aspect with the 4% silver weld.
I come back to the BOM for C18 and apply the same soldering tip.
Its' softer and clearer in the same way. Everybody confirm here... they are saints cause they hear always the same tunes to have good A to B critics with news modifications.
Well i 'm a beginner and just apply the tip if a hold wolf for the fold up of the caps leg on the PCB, it works !
The next step with the 1 uF at C4 increase the result as well.
For all : so I believe we can add > 0,68 uF as Gary said for C4 in the official BOM... with short legs. Already asked to JP if a smd PPS cap should be better here. JP answers that it doesn't woerth it.
this DAC is incridibly soft and clear....
Hope it helps
want to say thank you : I use the 1 uF Wima MKS2 you advice me yesterday for C4 (spidf input) instead of the 0,22 uF MKC. Big increase in sound quality with any doubt.
Here the MKC i have was bigger so the legs was longer. With the 1 uF the size of the cap is perfect. I cut the legs the shorter I can to fold up the legs on the golden contact on the pcb, soldering was maid at 400° very fast to have a bright aspect with the 4% silver weld.
I come back to the BOM for C18 and apply the same soldering tip.
Its' softer and clearer in the same way. Everybody confirm here... they are saints cause they hear always the same tunes to have good A to B critics with news modifications.
Well i 'm a beginner and just apply the tip if a hold wolf for the fold up of the caps leg on the PCB, it works !
The next step with the 1 uF at C4 increase the result as well.
For all : so I believe we can add > 0,68 uF as Gary said for C4 in the official BOM... with short legs. Already asked to JP if a smd PPS cap should be better here. JP answers that it doesn't woerth it.
this DAC is incridibly soft and clear....
Hope it helps
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Amanero-to-Subbu DAC V3 via I2S
Hi all,
I studied the WM8804 and Amanero USB datasheet.
The definition of WM8804 output pins and their connection
to ESS9023 chip are as follow:
Pin 15 LRCLK ---> R6 --> Pin 2 LRCLK
Pin 14 BCLK ---> R5 --> Pin 1 BCK
Pin 12 Dout ---> R4 --> Pin 3 SDI
Whereas the definition of some output pins of Amanero are:
pin 3 I2S Data
pin 4 I2S CLK
pin 5 I2S FSCLK
It seems that I can connect wires directly from Amanero to Subbu DAC and makes the
DAC get I2S data from my computer. But, I want to confirm that definition of these pins:
I2S Data < -- > Dout
What about the other 2 pins?
BCLK < -- > FSCLK ?
LRCLK < -- > CLK ?
Hi all,
I studied the WM8804 and Amanero USB datasheet.
The definition of WM8804 output pins and their connection
to ESS9023 chip are as follow:
Pin 15 LRCLK ---> R6 --> Pin 2 LRCLK
Pin 14 BCLK ---> R5 --> Pin 1 BCK
Pin 12 Dout ---> R4 --> Pin 3 SDI
Whereas the definition of some output pins of Amanero are:
pin 3 I2S Data
pin 4 I2S CLK
pin 5 I2S FSCLK
It seems that I can connect wires directly from Amanero to Subbu DAC and makes the
DAC get I2S data from my computer. But, I want to confirm that definition of these pins:
I2S Data < -- > Dout
What about the other 2 pins?
BCLK < -- > FSCLK ?
LRCLK < -- > CLK ?
shiga/subbu clocking options
Hi all, I hope it's ok to go off topic and get some schooling on clocking. With my new shigaclone kit, I have the options of crystal, TentLabs clock, external clock, and slaving with dac. Is there any one best option for pairing with my new Subbu? I gather slaving is not an option. I would appreciate your opinions and comments. Thanks. Kind regards.
Hi all, I hope it's ok to go off topic and get some schooling on clocking. With my new shigaclone kit, I have the options of crystal, TentLabs clock, external clock, and slaving with dac. Is there any one best option for pairing with my new Subbu? I gather slaving is not an option. I would appreciate your opinions and comments. Thanks. Kind regards.
Hi GarryB,
Did you get a shematic from Mark at Xen Audio to powersupply the buffer for the SUbbu ? i just get the buffer xithout documents by mail or by email with it...
Still matched Jfet ? Which exact voltage does it need ?
Does it needs two independant phantom Powersupply (no symetric +/- ; = no common rails ref to Gnd of the Buffer ?) or an standalone symetric one with a common rail to Gnd of the buffer ?
Precision is important = does it need regulators ?
thank you for your help
Eldam
Did you get a shematic from Mark at Xen Audio to powersupply the buffer for the SUbbu ? i just get the buffer xithout documents by mail or by email with it...
Still matched Jfet ? Which exact voltage does it need ?
Does it needs two independant phantom Powersupply (no symetric +/- ; = no common rails ref to Gnd of the Buffer ?) or an standalone symetric one with a common rail to Gnd of the buffer ?
Precision is important = does it need regulators ?
thank you for your help
Eldam
Yes the JG EUVL version with tried Jfet. Thank you Atupi...
Believe me or not I thought after few readings here and there than the Patrick's Philosophy was a standalone cells unit with just one + and one - direct to the buffer without the use of the 0V pin on it ! Floating powersupply if I remember the name of it ?!
So you say to me I need to use 3 rails : +15 v regulated, -15v regulated and their common reference (gnd) to the 0V pin on the buffer.
I can acheive that with two cells of 15 v in serie with the middle to the 0V (and no drift voltage with + & -) or a transformer. For the last choice do you know what EUVL or Joachim Gerrard advise : one or two bridges of rectifier before the regs units ?
Believe me or not I thought after few readings here and there than the Patrick's Philosophy was a standalone cells unit with just one + and one - direct to the buffer without the use of the 0V pin on it ! Floating powersupply if I remember the name of it ?!
So you say to me I need to use 3 rails : +15 v regulated, -15v regulated and their common reference (gnd) to the 0V pin on the buffer.
I can acheive that with two cells of 15 v in serie with the middle to the 0V (and no drift voltage with + & -) or a transformer. For the last choice do you know what EUVL or Joachim Gerrard advise : one or two bridges of rectifier before the regs units ?
J-P, Gary. I may try this cap for C2-C3-C18: RR71C101MDN1 Nichicon | Mouser.
It has ESR of 7mOhms but ripple of 5600mA, which is double ripple rating of recommended caps on BOM. Do you see problem using it? Thanks.
It has ESR of 7mOhms but ripple of 5600mA, which is double ripple rating of recommended caps on BOM. Do you see problem using it? Thanks.
Hi I use those in some DACs, they are OK. In fact I like them best for all 3 power supply caps (before the regs that is).
I'm not JP/GarryB but can answer you as I try these caps before you.
yes it will work but in my system it highligthed some harcheness (see my posts), especially used at the same time at C18 and C22.
Here it's a question of flavor, thety are not expensive, you can try it with bendings the legs on the pcb for a short test without soldering (take care with shortcuts).
The C18 of the BOM is good IHMO. I used myself the 470 uF SEPC Gary advised for C22 with very good result with the genuine C18 of the BOM. You can also try the C18 of the BOM with your FP cap at C22. I did and prefered SEPC at C22.
yes it will work but in my system it highligthed some harcheness (see my posts), especially used at the same time at C18 and C22.
Here it's a question of flavor, thety are not expensive, you can try it with bendings the legs on the pcb for a short test without soldering (take care with shortcuts).
The C18 of the BOM is good IHMO. I used myself the 470 uF SEPC Gary advised for C22 with very good result with the genuine C18 of the BOM. You can also try the C18 of the BOM with your FP cap at C22. I did and prefered SEPC at C22.
When the DAC is built according the BOM they will work OK at all 3 spots where 100 µF is used but only before the regs so don't use them for C22. After thorough testing I concluded a 470 µF SEPC, like GaryB advised, is best for C22.
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J-P, Eldam. Thank you. I'm starting my third subbu build 😀 and will use your advice. I will report back to you on results. Regards.
Hello Jean-Paul, I wanted to save your precious time... as it's the time of smoked herring salad in your countrie !
I think I'm going to open a thread called "Degrading The Subbu DAC" with my first self test: to have the best sounding, people have just to read it and not follow it !
Freeman, JP maid more than 20 revisions before offer its design, I think we have to trust him and his approval for DIYers modification.
That's why i wrote it when i have no succees, for avoiding loosing time or encourage the other good tunning : they are few : SEPC for C22, ceramic 1 uf for C17, maybe 1 uF instead 0.1 uf for C4.
I'm waiting myself a second Subbu for exotic tweaking for fun... atomic clock, medical polypropylen caps of 1 feet large, bycycle powersupply... but I'm not sure of the result !😀
Good luck
I think I'm going to open a thread called "Degrading The Subbu DAC" with my first self test: to have the best sounding, people have just to read it and not follow it !
Freeman, JP maid more than 20 revisions before offer its design, I think we have to trust him and his approval for DIYers modification.
That's why i wrote it when i have no succees, for avoiding loosing time or encourage the other good tunning : they are few : SEPC for C22, ceramic 1 uf for C17, maybe 1 uF instead 0.1 uf for C4.
I'm waiting myself a second Subbu for exotic tweaking for fun... atomic clock, medical polypropylen caps of 1 feet large, bycycle powersupply... but I'm not sure of the result !😀
Good luck
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Do what you like but it would indeed be best to make one according the BOM with the recommended mods and then make a second one with all the mods and changes you like. It is chaotic to post every single mod in an already non standard version (for other reading members/builders). Don't trust my opinion as I am human with built-in errors. The guys that have a systematic approach like GaryB can make the DAC better and I would be the last to object to that. It is just that we need a common version that is already very good (and that is enough for some builders 😉 ) and then try single changes like changing C17, C22 etc. Because of this I try to keep up and test the proposed changes myself. If you all need my "approval" well that's fine with me but that was not my initial thought. I only want to be sure we recommend changes to 500+ builders that really make sense without ending up with sad guys with broken DACs just because they tried to copy a random advice.
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I trust you JP,
but as it was not the official contructing thread but "Moddyfing thread", i permitt myself to answer to freeman.
Maybe you right, this thread have to be an official GarryB modification thread with orthodox approval to do short, The Litterature is not The Technic.
but I just said you were both right here with what you wrote. I double agree as I'm waiting a second Subbu pcb for fun and not to waste the first (good marketing approach, no ? , I'm joke)
But I am a fanatic in a place of fanatics... don't trust what I wrote as I am a lately converted and human as well.... (all these posts for three caps....pfff gary will kill me !)
salut JP
but as it was not the official contructing thread but "Moddyfing thread", i permitt myself to answer to freeman.
Maybe you right, this thread have to be an official GarryB modification thread with orthodox approval to do short, The Litterature is not The Technic.
but I just said you were both right here with what you wrote. I double agree as I'm waiting a second Subbu pcb for fun and not to waste the first (good marketing approach, no ? , I'm joke)
But I am a fanatic in a place of fanatics... don't trust what I wrote as I am a lately converted and human as well.... (all these posts for three caps....pfff gary will kill me !)
salut JP
I understand. Ive built a J-P version 😀 and a GaryB version
already. So now for the third build I plan to experiment a little further and see what happens. Regards.
Meanwhile most of my V3 DACs are quite GaryB 😉 How else can I test ?
I will never solder caps at the bottom of the board nor will I use longer than necessary lead wires so you can guess which mods my DACs are adapted to.
Now you got me curious. I take the "JP version" is the BOM version and the "GaryB version" is with many Wima caps ? Did you start off with 2 identical DACs and did you then change one part at the time and listened to differences ? Which mod made the largest difference ?
I will never solder caps at the bottom of the board nor will I use longer than necessary lead wires so you can guess which mods my DACs are adapted to.
I understand. Ive built a J-P version 😀 and a GaryB version
Now you got me curious. I take the "JP version" is the BOM version and the "GaryB version" is with many Wima caps ? Did you start off with 2 identical DACs and did you then change one part at the time and listened to differences ? Which mod made the largest difference ?
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for myself I did and have a systematical approach : just change one thing before retesting never 2 caps at the same time and always listen the same musicS for the tests.
I look at the photographs of gary and yours. The best is the half way for example like you said for C22 and C18. best result is your C18 (the Blue F polymer serie) not the red FP polymer serie used by Gary). but C22 is better with the Garry SEPC. believe Uncle Eldam : on my systtem this combo is a killing : soft, clear... and flesh enough, which is rare. of course in my system (we discuss of that in private mail with garryB, we have different systems with amp & speakers).
I tried all the the possibilities with the three series caps between the two position : so two factor 3. Always with the 1 uF bypass cap of the BOM for C22. And more as I added an alone BG N 33 uF caps // to the others and alone with alternativly C22 & C18 ! With KZ Muse as well. All After 50 hours of burning in with the genuine conf. With the last KZ and BG N, it was more subbtle and flavor appreciation, so I spoke few of theses before.
As I prefer Wima MKS2 at C35, I don't heared difference between 1 uF and the last keeped 3,3 uF MKS2... so i didn't try further the 4,7 MKS2 advised. It was with C34 at the Bottom (1 uF bypass of the BOM)
A great improvement was with C4 with 1 uF MKS2 instead O,1 uf MKC. But as i wrote before the MKC was 1 cm between the legs and the shorter 1 uF MKS2 feeted perfectly, i have bended the legs on the gold holes before soldering.
Sometimes devil is in the details.
I will add SAL caps with C18 & C22 in my last bench of test with the second PCB.
I look at the photographs of gary and yours. The best is the half way for example like you said for C22 and C18. best result is your C18 (the Blue F polymer serie) not the red FP polymer serie used by Gary). but C22 is better with the Garry SEPC. believe Uncle Eldam : on my systtem this combo is a killing : soft, clear... and flesh enough, which is rare. of course in my system (we discuss of that in private mail with garryB, we have different systems with amp & speakers).
I tried all the the possibilities with the three series caps between the two position : so two factor 3. Always with the 1 uF bypass cap of the BOM for C22. And more as I added an alone BG N 33 uF caps // to the others and alone with alternativly C22 & C18 ! With KZ Muse as well. All After 50 hours of burning in with the genuine conf. With the last KZ and BG N, it was more subbtle and flavor appreciation, so I spoke few of theses before.
As I prefer Wima MKS2 at C35, I don't heared difference between 1 uF and the last keeped 3,3 uF MKS2... so i didn't try further the 4,7 MKS2 advised. It was with C34 at the Bottom (1 uF bypass of the BOM)
A great improvement was with C4 with 1 uF MKS2 instead O,1 uf MKC. But as i wrote before the MKC was 1 cm between the legs and the shorter 1 uF MKS2 feeted perfectly, i have bended the legs on the gold holes before soldering.
Sometimes devil is in the details.
I will add SAL caps with C18 & C22 in my last bench of test with the second PCB.
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Started with the Korben GB using 10uf sal-rpm for C35. Best changes were just as you found: placing 1uf wima in C35. And then sepc 470uf for C22. I call this my J-P version. For GaryB version, placed 4.7uf wima for C35, and 3.3uf for C4 with .1uf bypass for best upgrade IMO. Which is best? J-P is slightly better in bass region, GaryB somewhat best in midrange to my ears. It's like choosing between Pomerol and st. Emilion, can't go wrong. Next version will include wima caps for C8-C13-C21 and few other recommendations by Eldam and others. Will let you know how it goes. Regards.