Maybe wrong the thread to ask in, but since you’re talking about fa22 anyway I’ll take my chances.
I’m building the 60 litre closed cabinet from the seas exotic f8 app note and wonder if anyone with a bit of experience could give me some advice about stuffing/lining/damping of this cabinet?
For info: it’s a slim floor standing enclosure of about 60L, it is supposedly well braced with holy bracing. Only differences from seas drawing is Baltic birch Instead of mdf, 24mm baffle and I’m going to use fa22 instead of exotic drivers, if it makes a difference.
It’s going to be used mostly in a smallish bass dominant room.
This is my first speaker project and because of the limited access to rear part of cabinet after glueing it together, I would greatly appreciate if someone could give me some specific advice on how this should be done right.
I’m building the 60 litre closed cabinet from the seas exotic f8 app note and wonder if anyone with a bit of experience could give me some advice about stuffing/lining/damping of this cabinet?
For info: it’s a slim floor standing enclosure of about 60L, it is supposedly well braced with holy bracing. Only differences from seas drawing is Baltic birch Instead of mdf, 24mm baffle and I’m going to use fa22 instead of exotic drivers, if it makes a difference.
It’s going to be used mostly in a smallish bass dominant room.
This is my first speaker project and because of the limited access to rear part of cabinet after glueing it together, I would greatly appreciate if someone could give me some specific advice on how this should be done right.
Thanks Dave! By loosely filled, do you mean the hole cabinet? Directly behind the drivers and everything?
Hi Dave,
Any recommendation as a replacement for a Fostex167E driver? Application is MLTL tuned to F3 of 43Hz. Thank you!
Any recommendation as a replacement for a Fostex167E driver? Application is MLTL tuned to F3 of 43Hz. Thank you!
Care has tpo be taken around the driver. Damping should be much less and then get denser. In cabinets with walls closer to the driver i will line the walls near th edriver with natural felt, but that is moot for my build of these.
You might have to play. Adding more damping, to a point, will mean a slower roll-off and how that ineracts with your room will deterine how much is just right.
dave
You might have to play. Adding more damping, to a point, will mean a slower roll-off and how that ineracts with your room will deterine how much is just right.
dave
Replace FE167e, your best bet is FF165wk. There are also a couple tricks to easily tart them up.
dave
dave
I am considering building a current source amplifier (First Watt F1, or F2J), and I was wondering if anyone is using a parallel impedance network on any of their Mark Audio / Planet 10/ Woden design speaker systems as discussed by Nelson Pass?
Is there either starting points or calculators out there than can help an end user know where to begin with such parallel networks?
Thanks.
Is there either starting points or calculators out there than can help an end user know where to begin with such parallel networks?
Thanks.
I believe the F2 has a 4 ohm output impedance, if used with a speaker with higher impedance (most MA drivers), the amp actually falls on the voltage side of zero, but very close to the point where it would be a current amplifier.
F1 has 40 ohm Rout i believe, and those 2 amps would need quite different treatment when it comes to tweaking the speaker.
In a well damped box, the F2 will likely need no help, the F1 on the other hand has 10x the Rout and is beyond my experience.
dave
F1 has 40 ohm Rout i believe, and those 2 amps would need quite different treatment when it comes to tweaking the speaker.
In a well damped box, the F2 will likely need no help, the F1 on the other hand has 10x the Rout and is beyond my experience.
dave
Thanks Dave, that is great info to know. The speaker is going to likely be the CHN-110 in the Kewel MLQW.
The F1 has an 80 output impedance.
The F2J has 15 ohms out. It is the Sit 2 with the 4 ohms out, that is not in my plans.
I will likely build the F2J since I have the Semisouth parts and would like to keep good 2dn order harmonic profile.
Matt
The F1 has an 80 output impedance.
The F2J has 15 ohms out. It is the Sit 2 with the 4 ohms out, that is not in my plans.
I will likely build the F2J since I have the Semisouth parts and would like to keep good 2dn order harmonic profile.
Matt
I hadn’t drawn that on yet, so i remedied that.
http://wodendesign.com/downloads/Kewel-compact-MLTL-CHN110-0v85-240421.pdf
dave
http://wodendesign.com/downloads/Kewel-compact-MLTL-CHN110-0v85-240421.pdf
dave
Hi Scott,
Interesting. I am curious to know what is the advantage of a double chamber reflex vs std bass reflex?
And what is the difference between a mammoth and a mastodon.... the real one, not the speaker cabinet.
Oon
Interesting. I am curious to know what is the advantage of a double chamber reflex vs std bass reflex?
And what is the difference between a mammoth and a mastodon.... the real one, not the speaker cabinet.
Oon
DCRs have a double tuning, so depending on the lower Fb you can have slightly better power-handling through the midbass region where a lot of the energy in rock music etc. tends to reside.
If you start with the overall taxonomic order of Proboscidea, the Mammut / Mastodon were a genus of the now extinct Mammutidae family within that. Woolly mammoths were part of the related Elephantidae family, so were technically closer to the modern African and Asian elephants than the Mastodon. Something roughly like this (there were lots of different families I haven't added for the sake of brevity):
If you start with the overall taxonomic order of Proboscidea, the Mammut / Mastodon were a genus of the now extinct Mammutidae family within that. Woolly mammoths were part of the related Elephantidae family, so were technically closer to the modern African and Asian elephants than the Mastodon. Something roughly like this (there were lots of different families I haven't added for the sake of brevity):
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Scootmoose
It would have been good if you had your own thread that was nailed with your constructions.
You had avoided all questions from users who want help.
Drivers-Box
It would have been good if you had your own thread that was nailed with your constructions.
You had avoided all questions from users who want help.
Drivers-Box
I have not yet come across a good box design for Fostex FE168ESigmas, 6.5 inch Full Range Drivers. Any leads? Thanks.