A late-era TDL type TL anyway. 
Neptune is a little like the pensils (not the same alignment) in that I did it with an eye to people adjusting the alignment as desired via altering the damping to suit their systems. It's modestly damped as-is, but you have the flexibilty there to fool around if desired; nominal Fb isn't all that different for each. Uranus will have more in the way of midbass however; a reasonable push-pull valve amp shouldn't have any difficulties with either, although Neptune, unless the lagging is removed, has the more linear impedance at the expense of gain. YMMV as ever. Or, name your poison, as Sir Christopher Lee would say:
Neptune is a little like the pensils (not the same alignment) in that I did it with an eye to people adjusting the alignment as desired via altering the damping to suit their systems. It's modestly damped as-is, but you have the flexibilty there to fool around if desired; nominal Fb isn't all that different for each. Uranus will have more in the way of midbass however; a reasonable push-pull valve amp shouldn't have any difficulties with either, although Neptune, unless the lagging is removed, has the more linear impedance at the expense of gain. YMMV as ever. Or, name your poison, as Sir Christopher Lee would say: 
How could I buy this planset? I can't send you any PM.The trapezoid Mar-Ken has a very low diffraction signature and is very good at disappearing. It is the hardest kind of miniOnken to build. There are easier to build derivations but they all have a bit higher diffraction signature.
The A10p fits the same size as the A10.2 shown above. The A10x planset is the one that has grown to great length, somethign like a third of a dollar per page/drawing.
dave
Meanwhile, from the crypt...
Relative levels on the MS version are a little skewed with a nominal bias toward the LF; a different version of that in the works at present, but added here 'for experimental purposes', for anyone so-inclined.
Humour aside, these are tweaker's designs really; ideally, since these are in the '70s retro dimension theme, you'll likely want them on an equivalent relatively low-level stand, and with a modest degree of tilt-back to help align the coils at the listening position -remember, we're dealing with widebands, with no, or slight filtering rather than a conventional multiway, so some individual adjustment is expected.
Relative levels on the MS version are a little skewed with a nominal bias toward the LF; a different version of that in the works at present, but added here 'for experimental purposes', for anyone so-inclined.
Humour aside, these are tweaker's designs really; ideally, since these are in the '70s retro dimension theme, you'll likely want them on an equivalent relatively low-level stand, and with a modest degree of tilt-back to help align the coils at the listening position -remember, we're dealing with widebands, with no, or slight filtering rather than a conventional multiway, so some individual adjustment is expected.
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It may be found a bit 'biased toward the low end' -not massively if used away from boundaries, but within the context of what it is, it's aimed that way as the 7MS is fairly gentle at the top end & the relative sensitivities work out like that. But plenty of room for people to play as they see fit -these are for people who like experimenting.
Well, the compound 11MS/7MS box does an easy 50Hz - high-40s; I could have got more but I wanted to limit the box size to keep dynamic range reasonable, so we're on a vintage alignment here to help load the drivers. As for alignments, assuming vented, a conventional voltage source amplifier & the usual 1/2 ohm of series R for wire loop, connections etc., then they individually work well in similar volumes by virtue of the elevated Q on the 7MS, though the 11 is a bit better in a slightly larger box, tuned slightly lower. At least, that's how I do it, since as far as vented boxes go I'd usually aim to limit Vb for the 7MS solo given its size and mono suspension. Plenty of room for variations there though, proscriptive this ain't.
If you have time to indulge a semi-idle question (I have several non-audio projects stacked before I re-engage) from the unwashed, which designs are not for a conventional voltage source amplifier? If the answer includes any picture frame wall-mount with reasonable drivers (or Dave's trapezoidal designs) that might compete well in priority (porch and dressers be-durned) although I then also have to build some type of current source amp.
I can't speak for anybody else, but as far as my own go, only those that say so on the sketches, or, typically, many of my older Fostex horns since the E, En, Sigma and ESigma series drivers were designed from the outset assuming that they'd be used on the end of such amplifiers.
That apart, I often hold off due to the temptation for some people to build a design 'because they like xyz' and ignore the intended operating conditions. We also sometimes get the issue of basic misunderstandings -a while ago, I spotted somebody on a different forum explaining why, when a speaker design has a phrase like 'designed for conventional voltage source amplifiers' on it, that means it can only be used with low power SET amplification and similar specialised amplifier types. Since I wasn't a member I couldn't really get involved, but a good example.
That apart, I often hold off due to the temptation for some people to build a design 'because they like xyz' and ignore the intended operating conditions. We also sometimes get the issue of basic misunderstandings -a while ago, I spotted somebody on a different forum explaining why, when a speaker design has a phrase like 'designed for conventional voltage source amplifiers' on it, that means it can only be used with low power SET amplification and similar specialised amplifier types.
Since I wasn't a member I couldn't really get involved, but a good example.
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Thanks!
My application would have been just be for fun.
RE: ignorance and misunderstanding. Understood. I have no idea where the operating conditions would be beneficial, neutral, or detrimental.
Experience tells me I either "get" things or I don't - without benefit of half-measures - so I am sure if I was looking at a specific application I would have pulled exactly all the wrong levers and pushed all the wrong buttons...
My only real constraints were for previous projects (Use the Parts Express kit parts I had already bought for some Christmas gifts for the Niblings) or opportunity knocking (I had the 2.5" drivers and plenty of XPS foam, so with decent lows, the Big Girls allow me to move the sub out of the garage).
My application would have been just be for fun.
RE: ignorance and misunderstanding. Understood. I have no idea where the operating conditions would be beneficial, neutral, or detrimental.
Experience tells me I either "get" things or I don't - without benefit of half-measures - so I am sure if I was looking at a specific application I would have pulled exactly all the wrong levers and pushed all the wrong buttons...
My only real constraints were for previous projects (Use the Parts Express kit parts I had already bought for some Christmas gifts for the Niblings) or opportunity knocking (I had the 2.5" drivers and plenty of XPS foam, so with decent lows, the Big Girls allow me to move the sub out of the garage).
Well, it had to be done (possibly).
Not often done with widebands (obviously) but with the rear unit firing into the magnet of the forward through a hanging layer of damping, the HF should be killed quite effectively. Impedance is a bit low, but this is also assuming the usual 1/2ohm series R for typical wire-loop, connections etc. which should prop it up to my nominal '3ohm minimum' & over a lot of the band it will be higher anyway. Apologies as ever for the tragic sketch, but I can't foist off everything on Dave.
Not often done with widebands (obviously) but with the rear unit firing into the magnet of the forward through a hanging layer of damping, the HF should be killed quite effectively. Impedance is a bit low, but this is also assuming the usual 1/2ohm series R for typical wire-loop, connections etc. which should prop it up to my nominal '3ohm minimum' & over a lot of the band it will be higher anyway. Apologies as ever for the tragic sketch, but I can't foist off everything on Dave.
