F3 is only meaningful to electronics, meaningless to humans (ref Toole).
Given the extrapolation step that happens in the sim (it does not deal with the highR vents), i can only guess the extention, And it is anechoic. In almost any room it will go lower.
Est F6 about 50, F10 about 40.
dave
Given the extrapolation step that happens in the sim (it does not deal with the highR vents), i can only guess the extention, And it is anechoic. In almost any room it will go lower.
Est F6 about 50, F10 about 40.
dave
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Hey guy,
I wonder if someone could address the Changtse to a newish speaker maker? I noticed in the last 6 months it appeared on the Mark Audio sight. Anyone make this speaker? Also I notice it has about the same volume as the standard Pensil but rear ported? Is the taller more narrow design more fore smaller footprint or does it have a significantly different sound to the Pensil?
Last question.
I already own a pair of Alpair 12p's and can't decide which design to make. I don't really have the room for the Super Pensil. Recommendation on the next best smaller design if one has a sub woofer to through into the mix?
Thanks
I wonder if someone could address the Changtse to a newish speaker maker? I noticed in the last 6 months it appeared on the Mark Audio sight. Anyone make this speaker? Also I notice it has about the same volume as the standard Pensil but rear ported? Is the taller more narrow design more fore smaller footprint or does it have a significantly different sound to the Pensil?
Last question.
I already own a pair of Alpair 12p's and can't decide which design to make. I don't really have the room for the Super Pensil. Recommendation on the next best smaller design if one has a sub woofer to through into the mix?
Thanks
While on the subject of MA boxes (several for other units in the pipeline which I'll shove up on this thread when I get my 12 year old desktop PC working again) -I suppose I should mention these:
https://kjfaudio.com/product-category/diy-audio/speaker-kits/wideband-fullrange/sl-speaker-kits/
I didn't name them (blame Stefan for that one), but I did design them for him. To be entirely up-front: although these are commercial kits, I don't get anything from them, so I'm not an 'interested' party. But they're straightforward 'starter' boxes which some might find useful, and offer an upgrade path since several are designed to be able to accept different drive units, the alignment suiting the requirements of each (yes, before anybody asks, that took a bit of juggling of volume & tuning to hit something that with minimal changes would give decent results with each of the drivers
).
https://kjfaudio.com/product-category/diy-audio/speaker-kits/wideband-fullrange/sl-speaker-kits/
I didn't name them (blame Stefan for that one), but I did design them for him. To be entirely up-front: although these are commercial kits, I don't get anything from them, so I'm not an 'interested' party. But they're straightforward 'starter' boxes which some might find useful, and offer an upgrade path since several are designed to be able to accept different drive units, the alignment suiting the requirements of each (yes, before anybody asks, that took a bit of juggling of volume & tuning to hit something that with minimal changes would give decent results with each of the drivers
).
I do like 'substantial' boxes given the option.Nice to see another design go public from your catalogue.
Quite tall, but should not be overpowering - with good cabinet work, the speakers should have a decent presence in the listening space.
do you have any feedback/reviews on the Oberon standmounts? Basic DCR for the 10.3. Dimensions and extension look good, quality of sound is where I have questions. Am I selecting the correct driver for sound quality, or am I just getting more low end extension with the 10.3?
Construction questions,
i built a pair of superpencils, and I will use a derivative of its internal bracing for the DCR.
How do you offset the brace to accommodate the ports?
Do you brace the lower chamber?
Construction questions,
i built a pair of superpencils, and I will use a derivative of its internal bracing for the DCR.
How do you offset the brace to accommodate the ports?
Do you brace the lower chamber?
They're different; the 120 has about 40% more cone area, requires a larger cabinet, gets lower if given that, has slightly narrower polars by ascending frequency & so on. The 10 is arguably a bit more refined, so depends where your priorities lie.
Essentially it's your choice: bracing in this design is optional rather than being in any way 'make or break' & I left it entirely in the hands of individual builders whether they wish to do so, & their preferred method.
Apologies if I should have asked the question in a new thread.
Does anyone have any thoughts about differences in the Uranus and Neptune designs for MA 12pw drawn by Scott that are available on the Mark Audio website?
Uranus is a double-chamber reflex and Neptune is a transmission line. Maybe Neptune will go lower and Uranus have punchier mid bass? Just taking a punt! How about impedance, which might be easier on a pp valve amp and suite a medium sized lossy room?? Thanks for any and all input.
Does anyone have any thoughts about differences in the Uranus and Neptune designs for MA 12pw drawn by Scott that are available on the Mark Audio website?
Uranus is a double-chamber reflex and Neptune is a transmission line. Maybe Neptune will go lower and Uranus have punchier mid bass? Just taking a punt! How about impedance, which might be easier on a pp valve amp and suite a medium sized lossy room?? Thanks for any and all input.