If in doubt, do all three! Ok, so I've never done CLD, but thick & braced is quite good already.
Personally, I vote BB-ply, if only because it has more finishing options, my favourite being a simple varnish or oil to show the nice light veneer and end-grain, which can be used as a design element.
Just keep in mind that unless architectural grade plywood (i.e. furniture grade veneers on each face) there may be variations in grain figuring and even flitch stitching (book vs slip matched) that isn’t always fully revealed until the finish is applied. The brand that I used for the last 5 years or so of my speaker building ”career” had an grade A single piece maple veneer face and a B slip matched face, with occasional small pinhole knots or football patches on the latter.
Since I was lucky enough to have access to the facilities, my favourite clear coat finish was sprayed nitrocellulose lacquer - the waterborne and urethane finished always struck me as too cold.
Since I was lucky enough to have access to the facilities, my favourite clear coat finish was sprayed nitrocellulose lacquer - the waterborne and urethane finished always struck me as too cold.
All of Scott’s (and my) designs are specifically done assumming quality plywood. No guarantees if you use MDF.
dave
dave
Plywood is stiffer, lighter, less homogeneous, and a bit better damped at critical frequencies. All assets over MDF.
One has to take different considerations when designing with plywood or MDF as a target. The latter tends towards brute force, i prefer doing elegant work.
dave
One has to take different considerations when designing with plywood or MDF as a target. The latter tends towards brute force, i prefer doing elegant work.
dave
I went through this thread coudnt find enclosure designs of Peerless TC9FD12-08
HAve 8 nos drivers and looking for ideas how to use them also have peeress XLS 10 2 nos for bass.
Also have a pair of Tang band 8” 1808 plans for that too please
My room is medium 15ft wide and 27ft depth and ceeling height is 11ft
cheers
anand
HAve 8 nos drivers and looking for ideas how to use them also have peeress XLS 10 2 nos for bass.
Also have a pair of Tang band 8” 1808 plans for that too please
My room is medium 15ft wide and 27ft depth and ceeling height is 11ft
cheers
anand
No, I've not really done anything for the TC9. Nothing against it, but it's not an especially flexible unit to work with in terms of solo use. Good in large numbers for arrays, or as a mid-tweet, but being a higher Q driver there aren't as many possibilities, and since it was a bit of an obsession for many for a couple of years I preferred to keep out of it (or at least my powder dry). 1808 I'll cast an eye over as time permits.
The high Q of this driver makes it difficult to put in any box other than sealed. We put them in a 5.5 litre sealed box. Hard to get excited abut them.
dave
They're on the MA site, but might as well add them here as they're done for this purpose: Himalaya series of (relatively) tall MLTLs. These are low[er] forced designs using more of the longitudinal for vent-damping & trade outright power-handling for an acoustically efficient load.
Attachments
Two more, of a similar type to the above, for the SB20FRPC30-8 (love the nomenclature 😉 ) and Tang Band W8-1808. In answer to any queries, see the attached. 
Attachments
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I suppose I should add re the Himalaya series: there's one there (Lhotse) that's for the MAOP11.2. As a short explanatory piece to save time in future, this was creating using a 'generic' data set since all MAOP units are individually pair-matched and have slightly different values, so there will be a minor amount of variation, but 'near enough' in the same way any other should be. Until recently I've deliberately avoided doing much for the MAOP series purely because of their semi-custom nature, but there have been so many requests (and since amplifier output impedance &c. alter things somewhat anyway) -I take the hint. 😉 So Lhotse's the first. There are a few more for each, but for another day.
For those who follow it: a very Happy Christmas one & all. And if you don't -my very best wishes anyway for the season.
For those who follow it: a very Happy Christmas one & all. And if you don't -my very best wishes anyway for the season.
Mr Scott u r a darling I have both these drivers thanks for sharingTwo more, of a similar type to the above, for the SB20FRPC30-8 (love the nomenclature 😉 ) and Tang Band W8-1808. In answer to any queries, see the attached.
Hi All! I would like to know your opinion which standmount design can give the most finese (non-boxy sound with the most details ) for Alpair 10P ?
In my experience, the Mar-Kens will do what you want and they aren't difficult to build.
I'm not sure if this will work for the A-10P, but I'm sure it's close. Dave can give specifics.
Mar-Ken A10
I'm not sure if this will work for the A-10P, but I'm sure it's close. Dave can give specifics.
Mar-Ken A10
The trapezoid Mar-Ken has a very low diffraction signature and is very good at disappearing. It is the hardest kind of miniOnken to build. There are easier to build derivations but they all have a bit higher diffraction signature.
The A10p fits the same size as the A10.2 shown above. The A10x planset is the one that has grown to great length, somethign like a third of a dollar per page/drawing.
dave
The A10p fits the same size as the A10.2 shown above. The A10x planset is the one that has grown to great length, somethign like a third of a dollar per page/drawing.
dave
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