I've been pondering the idea to build a pair of active monitors as computer/TV speakers and I think it's good to go. The amps I'll use will be Sure TPA3110d2 2x15W for full-range driver and Sure TPA3110d2 2x8W for helper tweeter. I really like these small, low-power amplifiers and I think they sound absolutely brilliant for the price. The drivers will be TB W4-657 SC as the full range and cheap chinese HIEND tweeter as helper. If the tweeter sounds horrible, it'll probably get changed to something else.
My plan is to cross over at approximately 4kHz with -6db PLLXO for the full range to lessen the peak it makes at 6-7kHz and cross the tweeter at 8-10kHz with -6dB PLLXO, depending on what sounds best. If the low-end excursion seems to be all over the place, a high-pass filter for the full range will also be needed. The full range will have it's own enclosure with the tweeter sitting on top in an enclosure it'll share with the amps and circuitry. I'll build both out of BB plywood, I've had it with MDF board
There was a plan for CHR-70 Karlson enclosure earlier in this thread, would that work for my driver as well? They have about the same fs, but the W4-657 has QTS of 0.39 as opposed to CHR-70s QTS of 0.55. Also as foam core here is insanely expensive I'll probably build a test enclosure out of 3mm weatherboard which I'll glue to together to 6mm thickness. I've found it to be excellent prototyping material if you just remember to use internal braces enough
My plan is to cross over at approximately 4kHz with -6db PLLXO for the full range to lessen the peak it makes at 6-7kHz and cross the tweeter at 8-10kHz with -6dB PLLXO, depending on what sounds best. If the low-end excursion seems to be all over the place, a high-pass filter for the full range will also be needed. The full range will have it's own enclosure with the tweeter sitting on top in an enclosure it'll share with the amps and circuitry. I'll build both out of BB plywood, I've had it with MDF board
There was a plan for CHR-70 Karlson enclosure earlier in this thread, would that work for my driver as well? They have about the same fs, but the W4-657 has QTS of 0.39 as opposed to CHR-70s QTS of 0.55. Also as foam core here is insanely expensive I'll probably build a test enclosure out of 3mm weatherboard which I'll glue to together to 6mm thickness. I've found it to be excellent prototyping material if you just remember to use internal braces enough
I've been pondering the idea to build a pair of active monitors as computer/TV speakers and I think it's good to go. The amps I'll use will be Sure TPA3110d2 2x15W for full-range driver and Sure TPA3110d2 2x8W for helper tweeter. I really like these small, low-power amplifiers and I think they sound absolutely brilliant for the price. The drivers will be TB W4-657 SC as the full range and cheap chinese HIEND tweeter as helper. If the tweeter sounds horrible, it'll probably get changed to something else.
My plan is to cross over at approximately 4kHz with -6db PLLXO for the full range to lessen the peak it makes at 6-7kHz and cross the tweeter at 8-10kHz with -6dB PLLXO, depending on what sounds best. If the low-end excursion seems to be all over the place, a high-pass filter for the full range will also be needed. The full range will have it's own enclosure with the tweeter sitting on top in an enclosure it'll share with the amps and circuitry. I'll build both out of BB plywood, I've had it with MDF board
There was a plan for CHR-70 Karlson enclosure earlier in this thread, would that work for my driver as well? They have about the same fs, but the W4-657 has QTS of 0.39 as opposed to CHR-70s QTS of 0.55. Also as foam core here is insanely expensive I'll probably build a test enclosure out of 3mm weatherboard which I'll glue to together to 6mm thickness. I've found it to be excellent prototyping material if you just remember to use internal braces enough
Those TPA3110's from sure are great amps - I have one and really like it. You may want to consider the TPA3116D2 for about the same price and that is capable of 50watts, not that you need that much but at 15 watts it is absolutely clean with no distortion. The Sure TPA3116D2's seem to get good reviews (buy direct from Sure's website for $20). I also have very good luck with these $13 amps from Aliexpress (sound very good stock, and if you want replace the two power caps with Panasonic SEPF 330uF 25v OSCON's): Online Shop Free Shipping! 1pc TPA3116 Class D digital amplifier 50W +50 W with Silent Sleep Design|Aliexpress Mobile
I am assuming you want to use the W4-657SC's as single drivers per cabinet? If so, it will work well in a 0.53x scale box (height and depth) and 0.40x scale width. You should get 56Hz (-3dB) from nominal 88dB output with no BSC needed. If you want to go dual driver route, use 0.53x for all dimensions and you will get a 94dB sensitive system. In which case, the 15w amps is probably more than enough.
One more thing, you will have plenty of good HF's with this speaker that I don't think a supertweeter or bi-amping with PLLXO is needed. The simplicity of this fullrange design is one of its key attractions.
Thanks for the advice! And you guessed right, I'll be aiming at single driver per cabinet for full ranges.
Thing with the amplifiers is, I've already got them in storage Ordering new ones would also work, but I feel no need for it as 15W per channel is more than enough for my listening needs.
I'm unsure about the drivers HF capabilities as people say the peak in the 8kHz area with this driver is very audible and disturbing. I need to to assemble the prototype and hear for myself if it needs dampening or tweeter on top or not.
Thing with the amplifiers is, I've already got them in storage
Ordering new ones would also work, but I feel no need for it as 15W per channel is more than enough for my listening needs.I'm unsure about the drivers HF capabilities as people say the peak in the 8kHz area with this driver is very audible and disturbing. I need to to assemble the prototype and hear for myself if it needs dampening or tweeter on top or not.
One very nice thing about the Karlson aperture is that it tends to smooth out these ugly peaks native to a driver. I have seen a -3dB to -5dB reduction in some breakup peaks from a driver after it goes behind the K aperture. You may be pleasantly surprised. If you have the amps already, by all means go ahead and use them.
Make sure you add felt of foam along walls adjacent to driver and on bottom panel. I actually have a little loose stuffing adjacent to driver and it doesn't seem to hurt anything. If helps to reduce back reflection resonances at higher frequencies. It's easy to adjust this through driver cutout. I adjust it with measurement to balance the bass level of the two speakers with measurement.
Sorry about that, you have felt on adjacent panels already (I could not see it from my phone). But do add it to at least one side panel. Make the stuffing in the stub before the driver denser.
Thanks guys- they are coming along well. Here is the final stuffing and one clamped and taped together. Sounds very good with some Lisa Gerrard. Amp is a slightly modified "weiner"
Any advice before I close them up please.
Looks great. One more piece of felt on divider wall right behind drivers. That one is key to reducing reflections back onto cone. Optional is a piece of felt at top panel but not to obstruct vent.
Help selecting speaker setup
Awesome thread xrk971 and all contributors. Thanks for sharing. Inspiring me to make plans and I would appreciate some feedback. I have not purchased anything yet.
I listen to a variety of music, classic rock, current pop, classical and jazz, at moderate volumes with the occasional louder listening session. The listening room will be the piano room, 12 feet by 14 feet with only the piano and a love seat in the room. Like clarity and imaging.
Plans are for music from an ipod 30 pin to RCA cable and/or Bluetooth 4.0 receiver.
Little Bear 6J1 tube preamp
TPA3116 amp with no mods powered by Targus power supply.
Speaker choice is where I get hung up and would like some help.
Foam board or wood?
Single pair Mini Karlsonator 0.4 with Vifa TC9FD drivers at 8 ohms
Single pair Mini Karlsonator 0.40 with Faital Pro 4FE35 drivers at 8 ohms
Single pair Mini Karlsonator 0.53 with dual Vifa TC9FD drivers at 4 ohms
Single pair Mini Karlsonator 0.53 with dual Faital Pro 4FE35 drivers at 4 ohms
Two pair Mini Karlsonator 0.4 with Vifa TC9FD drivers at 4 ohms
Two pair Mini Karlsonator 0.40 with Faital Pro 4FE35 drivers at 4 ohms
Two pair Mini Karlsonator 0.53 with dual Vifa TC9FD drivers at 8 ohms
Two pair Mini Karlsonator 0.53 with dual Faital Pro 4FE35 drivers at 8 ohms
If you had to chose a speaker, which setup would you pick?
Awesome thread xrk971 and all contributors. Thanks for sharing. Inspiring me to make plans and I would appreciate some feedback. I have not purchased anything yet.
I listen to a variety of music, classic rock, current pop, classical and jazz, at moderate volumes with the occasional louder listening session. The listening room will be the piano room, 12 feet by 14 feet with only the piano and a love seat in the room. Like clarity and imaging.
Plans are for music from an ipod 30 pin to RCA cable and/or Bluetooth 4.0 receiver.
Little Bear 6J1 tube preamp
TPA3116 amp with no mods powered by Targus power supply.
Speaker choice is where I get hung up and would like some help.
Foam board or wood?
Single pair Mini Karlsonator 0.4 with Vifa TC9FD drivers at 8 ohms
Single pair Mini Karlsonator 0.40 with Faital Pro 4FE35 drivers at 8 ohms
Single pair Mini Karlsonator 0.53 with dual Vifa TC9FD drivers at 4 ohms
Single pair Mini Karlsonator 0.53 with dual Faital Pro 4FE35 drivers at 4 ohms
Two pair Mini Karlsonator 0.4 with Vifa TC9FD drivers at 4 ohms
Two pair Mini Karlsonator 0.40 with Faital Pro 4FE35 drivers at 4 ohms
Two pair Mini Karlsonator 0.53 with dual Vifa TC9FD drivers at 8 ohms
Two pair Mini Karlsonator 0.53 with dual Faital Pro 4FE35 drivers at 8 ohms
If you had to chose a speaker, which setup would you pick?
Ordered My Viffas
greetings xrk971, are the plans in the first post still valid? I've been wanting to try these ever since this thread started and have now pulled the trigger for the drivers. Thought I might dig around for materials while I wait for them to arrive and wanted to make sure the dimensions were OK. I can't remember if somewhere things were altered for better performance or something and am going directly to the source for the answer. I appreciate your efforts in trying new things AND keeping them relatively simple. Great Work!
Robert
greetings xrk971, are the plans in the first post still valid? I've been wanting to try these ever since this thread started and have now pulled the trigger for the drivers. Thought I might dig around for materials while I wait for them to arrive and wanted to make sure the dimensions were OK. I can't remember if somewhere things were altered for better performance or something and am going directly to the source for the answer. I appreciate your efforts in trying new things AND keeping them relatively simple. Great Work!
Robert
