Dayton Audio PS180-8 6.5" driver?
Has anyone here made a Karlsonator with the Dayton Audio PS180-8 6.5" driver?
Asking for a friend. 😉
I was thinking he could fit them in the fabulous 0.53X enclosure that I have holding single PS95-8 3.5" drivers.
While the price increase from 3.5" to 5" is modest, I was surprised at the steep price increase (300%) when moving from 5" to 6.5".
Kind regards,
Drew
Has anyone here made a Karlsonator with the Dayton Audio PS180-8 6.5" driver?
Asking for a friend. 😉
I was thinking he could fit them in the fabulous 0.53X enclosure that I have holding single PS95-8 3.5" drivers.
While the price increase from 3.5" to 5" is modest, I was surprised at the steep price increase (300%) when moving from 5" to 6.5".
Kind regards,
Drew
Can someone direct me to explanation how does the karlsonator is different from BP6 series enclosure (or BP6 series enclosure is just an approach to a karlsonator because it is the closest to theoritical explanation)? And what is the reason for the shape of the front chamber?
It is a mass loaded transmission line alignment with some partial feedback like a tapped horn provided by the Karlson aperture which directs some of the bass across the front of the driver (although not much of a BP6 effect). The tuning of the frequency is dependent on both the box volume and length of the folded TL, and the constriction of the vent.
It's not only the size increas but this driver is one of Dayton's "flagship" drivers with all the bells and whistles (phase plug, Nd magnets, cast frame, whizzer cone, inverted half-roll surround, spring clip nickel plated binding posts, copper cap and ring on motor to reduce distortion, kevlar infused paper cone, etc...)
Surprisingly, I have not simulated a Karlsonator for it if I recall. The Qts is a bit low - more suited to an XKi or a BLH, or FLH, or plain open faced reflex. My guess is that it won't simulate well in Karlsonator - Qts is too low and you won't get much bass as Karlsonator likes moderate to highish Qts in order to get the bass to go lower than the Fs.
I personally would go with a Tangband W5-2143, cost less and deeper bass, and smoother midrange and highs. Have you looked at the factory response?
It's kind of a mess above 3kHz.
https://www.parts-express.com/pedoc...Full-Range Neo Driver Specification Sheet.pdf
If you really like 6.5in drivers, go with a Peerless NE180W-8 and add a tweeter above 2khz. That can work in a Karlsonator and use a small press fit ND25FN-4 tweeter press fit into a small cutout on the K-aperture, a la XiClops fame.
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Ive had this driver and sold it cos couldn't get the bass response required. It's pretty hot on top too.
If you look on specs a vented box only gets you to 105Hz.
I also would recommend W5-2143 in 0.53 Karlsinator. Great driver, great enclosure, easy to build from 1cm foamcore. I did it so literally anyone can, promise.
I imagine some of the Mark Audio full rangers will do well too. They are really nice drivers as well.
Just follow X's instructions re foamcore builds. Use black if you can, it marks less.
If you look on specs a vented box only gets you to 105Hz.
I also would recommend W5-2143 in 0.53 Karlsinator. Great driver, great enclosure, easy to build from 1cm foamcore. I did it so literally anyone can, promise.
I imagine some of the Mark Audio full rangers will do well too. They are really nice drivers as well.
Just follow X's instructions re foamcore builds. Use black if you can, it marks less.
I remember that unique aspect ratio - tall and skinny but deep. I bet that combo sounds really good for GregB to make 3 more.
X has me intrigued by all the experimentation with this design. my TABAQ CHR70 is not that great, so this would be an interesting design to try..dB
Use foam core to make one first before committing to wood. Make sure you like it. If you make it in wood you need to line the inside chamber with melamine foam and the front chamber with melamine foam and back of K aperture with foam core and felt. That’s been my experience making Karlsonators out of wood.
Are you considering something to replace your Monsoon planar FAST setup or a different speaker for another room?
I think I had CHR 70 in a set of Frugal Horns and thought it not great.
Replaced with the Alpair of similar size and it was night and day better.
Could it be the driver and not the cabinet?
Replaced with the Alpair of similar size and it was night and day better.
Could it be the driver and not the cabinet?
yes, I suspect it is the driver that is not as good as I had hoped for. This is just "for fun" My primary focus for speakers is figuring out my OB set up..dB
I have a suggestion for the full range on your OB, try the PRV 5MR450NDY, cross it above 300Hz. Beautiful sounding driver. Very sensitive, so low power and low cone excursions give low distortion.
Looks very interesting. I have already picked up the SAL 08C08 full range drivers to try in a PAP TRIO like arrangement. BUT as this is all fun experimentation, no harm in trying out other drivers too - the reason I like the PAP format - you can just switch panels out which makes it easy to try different things.
I currently have the MOTH audio Cicada drivers in the panel along with a horn loaded tweeter
I currently have the MOTH audio Cicada drivers in the panel along with a horn loaded tweeter
Hi dBel,
That looks oddly familiar to me. 🙂
Here is a plywood panel OB with dual PRVs and a horn loaded tweeter and two pro 12in woofers.
That looks oddly familiar to me. 🙂
Here is a plywood panel OB with dual PRVs and a horn loaded tweeter and two pro 12in woofers.
I am waiting for my melamine sponges and keep thinking between the praised foamcore and the boxiness of the wood/mdf. I 've noticed that builders spend a lot of hot glue and there are air leaking boxes. What about fixing the foamcore panels/plates on a light wood rectangular frame using small screws? Like this shape here, but made of wood:
Google Image Result
Google Image Result
The air leaks can be fixed by using your finger to smooth the soft hot melt glue into a fillet like caulking. Be careful to wet finger in water first so you don’t burn.
Or use PVA to seal joints like caulking after the hot melt hardens and serves to tack structure together.
Glueing foamcore into a wood frame is a great idea. You get benefits of easy and clean cutting panels. Extra robustness of thin wooden frame. You still need to seal it with hot melt or caulking. But construction is sort of like model airplane building with foam core.
Or use PVA to seal joints like caulking after the hot melt hardens and serves to tack structure together.
Glueing foamcore into a wood frame is a great idea. You get benefits of easy and clean cutting panels. Extra robustness of thin wooden frame. You still need to seal it with hot melt or caulking. But construction is sort of like model airplane building with foam core.
Hot glue is not the only solution.
Silicon based glue or those new polymer glues (which are unbelievably strong) seal very well.
I even glued wooden cabinets with polymer glue.
Silicon based glue or those new polymer glues (which are unbelievably strong) seal very well.
I even glued wooden cabinets with polymer glue.