I am quite glad to see some of you get interested in this Karlson enclosure.
Could it be a first step to get into the real Karlson family which has far more to offer than this little "adaptation" of a bright design !
Could it be a first step to get into the real Karlson family which has far more to offer than this little "adaptation" of a bright design !
I know I've seen instructions here somewhere but can't find them - I remember seeing a pic of cutout etc for the dual 3FE25 model. Just built the baffle for the TC9FD's as per MuddJester but the bottom driver doesn't fit.
Can someone please direct me to the relevant post/s?
Thanks
Clayton
Post 3342 and 3345 on previous page has plans by jhofland in 3D Sketchup format. Those are plans used for my last 2 builds.
The mudjester plans should work - just move the holes for the drivers around until it fits. Alternatively, you can extend the baffle board a little bit longer - it won’t affext the sound.
Could it be a first step to get into the real Karlson family which has far more to offer than this little "adaptation" of a bright design !
If what you mean by real Karlson as the 1955 15in Karlson, this is a different speaker since being a ML-TQWT with Karlson aperture, is in my view, much more universal as it can be made smaller than 12in driver scale and still have a lot of bass below 100Hz to provide warm rich bass. The original Karlson doesn’t have any bass when scaled smaller than 12in. The effect of the K aperture on the sound dispersion is the same though. So in many ways, the Karlsonator is better than the original when used with smaller enclosures which are easier build and use since not so physically dominating. It sounds great too as can be seen by the popularity of this design.
Thanks > Saw that just after my post went out - I've got SketchUp so will have a look at that plan
I've also found Skylar88 plan for 2x 3FE25 in post#2859
That will be this evening's activity
I've also found Skylar88 plan for 2x 3FE25 in post#2859
That will be this evening's activity
Post 3342 and 3345 on previous page has plans by jhofland in 3D Sketchup format. Those are plans used for my last 2 builds.
The mudjester plans should work - just move the holes for the drivers around until it fits. Alternatively, you can extend the baffle board a little bit longer - it won’t affext the sound.
a "sticky" explaining the original Karlson versus its diy variants (Karlsonator, Xki, KaZba) attributes might be useful. Karlson's K8 was tuned ~95Hz. A Karlsonator 8, ~41Hz. Karlson's K12 ~62Hz. GregB's Karlsonator(12) 37Hz.
Perhaps Metro Audio's T15 would be viewed as an XKi.
The K-tube is one very good sounding HF device imo.
X - I'd like to see a Karlsonator10 sometime. Beta10cx is dreary compared to good FR but perhaps
with good crossover work, could do pretty well. Karlsonator12 was just too big for a 10" plus imo, tuned too
low @37Hz for Beta10CX. Tumning around 50 could be punchy - if no paaking. A good 10 and K-tube would be
anohter option.
Perhaps Metro Audio's T15 would be viewed as an XKi.
The K-tube is one very good sounding HF device imo.
X - I'd like to see a Karlsonator10 sometime. Beta10cx is dreary compared to good FR but perhaps
with good crossover work, could do pretty well. Karlsonator12 was just too big for a 10" plus imo, tuned too
low @37Hz for Beta10CX. Tumning around 50 could be punchy - if no paaking. A good 10 and K-tube would be
anohter option.
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The new Karlsonators are finished. Custom tinted lacquer front apertures.
I am also getting another set of apertures made in black Duratex to allow a change of scenery, as required.
I am also getting another set of apertures made in black Duratex to allow a change of scenery, as required.
Attachments
Looking great, X! Did you use the melamine sponges on the inside of the aperture? If so, could you post a pic?
The inside of aperture has a layer of foam core and inside outside chamber and inside of box has melamine sponges - just like how I did the last one. Pics already posted pages back. I forget where but it’s there - on the jhofland built speakers.
The inside of aperture has a layer of foam core and inside outside chamber and inside of box has melamine sponges - just like how I did the last one. Pics already posted pages back. I forget where but it’s there - on the jhofland built speakers.
Found it! Post #2954 https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ful...onator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-148.html#post5577990
Great interior pics that really show the usage of the foam core and melamine.
Gee - that's really elegant and pretty at the same time. Perhaps a little klam sub would be fun. Here's one done by Carl's kid - maybe 15 or more years ago. I can't tell from the poor picture resolution if that's the passive radiator facing forwards or not. It provided bass for the 4 (8-10 I guess) Scan-Speak 10" variovent flanking speakers.

Found it! Post #2954 https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ful...onator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-148.html#post5577990
Great interior pics that really show the usage of the foam core and melamine.
The link you have above isn't correct. The post number is - but here is an easy to click link.
Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's
I will post link in Post 1 as well.
Gee - that's really elegant and pretty at the same time. Perhaps a little klam sub would be fun. Here's one done by Carl's kid - maybe 15 or more years ago. I can't tell from the poor picture resolution if that's the passive radiator facing forwards or not. It provided bass for the 4 (8-10 I guess) Scan-Speak 10" variovent flanking speakers.
Hi Freddy, I am a fan of the XKi dual driver sub. I have been using mine for years and the sound has always been clean and reaches deep. Even for a dual 5.25in driver box, it has been a very good all around sub capable of highs up to 500Hz.
XKi - X's ab initio Karlson 6th Order Bandpass


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The link you have above isn't correct. The post number is - but here is an easy to click link.
Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's
I will post link in Post 1 as well.
Odd, when I click on either link it takes me to the correct post. I have my view set to 20 posts per page. Would that make a difference? Regardless, thanks for putting it in post #1.
Having a hell of a time trying to learn sketchup. Do you know of plans that upfront detail measurements?
Having a hell of a time trying to learn sketchup. Do you know of plans that upfront detail measurements?
You can use the other plans on Post 1. The Sketchup plans let you make very precise parts if you are familiar with how to use it. Here’s how I make speakers: a ruler and pencil and I draw the profile on the side wall, then I add pieces to the sketch of the hand drawn profile.
For example:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...tc9fds-0-53x-karlsonator-score-fold-plans-pdf
For people versed in precision woodworking, the Sketchup is the bomb.
This is my plan:

Hi people.I was remembering the sim incorrectly - it was the dual TC9FD that is more ideal for 0.53x than dual 3FE25. For the 4FE35, you need to expand the length and depth to 0.60x scale and reduce width to 0.47x scale. The 16ohm ones cannot be made to work well unfortunately, the Qts is just too high and you get a large bass overshoot. It may sound ok, but not ideal. The other option is to run dual 4ohms in series. I will have to simulate that though before you try to build it. I am away from my simulation computer at the moment as I am on travel. Give me a few days and I will take a look at how to get an 8ohm nominal dual 4FE32-4ohm in series for 8ohms nominal. It will probably be a wash on sensitivity though.
Thanks for sharing your amazing job.
I think about use dual 4fe35, hill bem enough low end for my living Room 16x17 feat ? Or maybe tc9 is beter?
Congrulatins from Portugal
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Sure, try it with 0.60x scale in height and depth and 0.47x scale in width. You should have plenty of low end with this speaker with the dual 4FE35. In a 16x17 ft room, you will also have some room modes that will make the bass extend quite a bit lower as well.
what impedance should I use?
What kind of filter should i use?
I have this amps tda7492, tda8932, tpa3116, tda7498, lm1875 is powerful enough?
thank you
What kind of filter should i use?
I have this amps tda7492, tda8932, tpa3116, tda7498, lm1875 is powerful enough?
thank you
If you want an 8ohm impedance use dual 16ohm drivers. If your amp can handle 4ohms go with dual 8ohm drivers. Any of those amps will work. Personally I like TDA8932 (nice bass and no turn on pop) and you don’t need more than 25w. For dual 16ohm drivers the speaker is close to 96dB at 2.83v so louder than you need probably at 25w.
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