Small update, I have a pair of 0.53X Karlsonators equipped with Dayton Audio PA130-drivers and now they are paired up with one very inexpensive Behringer A800 amp. Oh boy, this feels like a match made in heaven. Sounds absolutely amazing! And for you nay-sayers, Yes I know there are obvious limitations on the 5-inch drivers etc. But this combination of speakers and amplifier sounds just so damn good, so I might as well enjoy it! 😀
Thanks for that Cakeman!
I have not heard the PA130’s in a Karlsonator in a while - but my memories of it are very fond indeed. It’s one of the best sounding speakers that can be had for this price and this size cabinet. Despite the 5in size, they have great “chest punch” thanks to the 90dB sensitivity.
I have not heard the PA130’s in a Karlsonator in a while - but my memories of it are very fond indeed. It’s one of the best sounding speakers that can be had for this price and this size cabinet. Despite the 5in size, they have great “chest punch” thanks to the 90dB sensitivity.
Karlsonator 3.5 wooden frame??
I'm building a system for a friend who is after a vintage look (varnished box/grille). Could I build a wooden frame around a K3 TC9, what would be the best way to go about it? I read that FC is the preferred material to ply. I'd like to use the score and fold plans as my carpentry skills only extend as far as building boxes!
If I caulk the wood to the outer FB, would that affect resonances? Or perhaps I could use dense foam dampeners between wood and FB?
Any thoughts on this?
Or perhaps xrk has a better suggestion to put 2 TC9's and a sub to use that will appease my friend's retro-look requests and my personal lack of woodworking skills?!
I'm building a system for a friend who is after a vintage look (varnished box/grille). Could I build a wooden frame around a K3 TC9, what would be the best way to go about it? I read that FC is the preferred material to ply. I'd like to use the score and fold plans as my carpentry skills only extend as far as building boxes!
If I caulk the wood to the outer FB, would that affect resonances? Or perhaps I could use dense foam dampeners between wood and FB?
Any thoughts on this?
Or perhaps xrk has a better suggestion to put 2 TC9's and a sub to use that will appease my friend's retro-look requests and my personal lack of woodworking skills?!
I often wonder about this approach and if / or how it will affect the sound. I was also thinking that one can make a wooden frame or shell with bottom, top and sides – just big enough for a FC Karlsonator enclosure to slide in snugly from the back. Furthermore, one could probably omit the FC aperture on the FC enclosure and have a wooden aperture on the front of the wooden shell – and still slide the FC enclosure into the wooden box from the back.
We look forward to see your build and impressions. And yes, it is a great idea to plan for a sub to compliment the K’s - a 2.1 system.
When X and I made some plywood 0.53 Karlsonators one of the things we did, per X's skills, was to put some foam core on the back side of the aperture board. If you choose to do the slide in approach I'd recommend you do that.
If you are going to make a wooden box, why not just omit the foam core (except for the lining on the inside of the front aperture)? Seems like you would be building two boxes. If you want to make it look like a conventional speaker, just put a thin raised lip around the perimeter of the front aperture (rectangle) and use (black or brown etc) speaker grill cloth to cover it. The slightly raised lip lifts the fabric off of the k aperture outline - and it would look like an utterly conventional rectangular prismatic box with a full front fabric grill.
Like this:
Like this:
How do you mean X? Are you suggesting building the internal structure out of FB in a wood box? Seems to take away the lovely simplicity of the score and fold plans? Your K3.5 and and K5's seem to be the most liked and respected ways for a non-craftsman to utilise small FR's. I don't want to try and reinvent the wheel 🙂
I agree that if I'm going to have a grille anyway, using FB for the K aperture doesn't matter at all. I'll just plan it to be recessed slightly into the wood box, so there is room to mount a grille flush.
Anyway, assuming thats what you meant, I'll build something with the slide-in approach for now and take a few basic measurements to see if anyone notices anomalies.
I agree that if I'm going to have a grille anyway, using FB for the K aperture doesn't matter at all. I'll just plan it to be recessed slightly into the wood box, so there is room to mount a grille flush.
Anyway, assuming thats what you meant, I'll build something with the slide-in approach for now and take a few basic measurements to see if anyone notices anomalies.
Ok, I guess you are saying it’s easy to make the internal structure of the TL out of foamcore. It’s easy for you to make a rectangular prismatic wood box - so combine the two. Sure, that should work. Veneering the foamcore with thin wood works too. Not a slide in shell but applied directly.
I need a mid range horn for a horn system need to crossover at 250 HZ would a Mini Karlsonator work ; I have Karlsonator using a 15 inch could I use 10 inch speaker In big Karlsonator
SMALL SIGNAL PARAMETERS of 10 inch
5.4 Ω
53.7 Hz
47 g
0.19 mm/N
21.4 N/A
5.9
0.21
0.20
40 I
2.9 mH
380 cm2
2.8 %
SHIPPING INFORMATION
3.6 Kg
270x270x180 mm
4.1 Kg
SMALL SIGNAL PARAMETERS of 10 inch
DC resistance(Re)
Resonance frequency(Fs)
Moving mass(Mms)
Compliance(Cms)
Force factor(BL)
Mechanical Q-factor(Qms)
Electrical Q-factor(Qes)
Total Q-factor(Qts)
Equivalent air volume(Vas)
Voice coil Inductance(Le)
Diaphragm area(Sd)
Reference efficiency(Eta O)
SHIPPING INFORMATION
Net weight
Multipack size (1) (W x D x H)
Multipack weight
A Karlsonator is a great choice for work below 250Hz. There are some dips around 250Hz to 400Hz but’s it’s not unpleasant. So a XO there could work.
The dual 3FE25-16 Karlsonators are almost done. I am going to get the aperture tinted a more amber color than what is shown here. The finish is looking good though. Black Duratex on the inside of the front chamber. This was built using Jhofland’s Sketchup plans.
X, is this a wood cabinet?
Yes, Baltic birch with 14 coats of hand rubbed lacquer. I have two front aperture. One is satin finish blonde/natural with slight tint. Other is black Duratex. Can exchange to suit decor.
I got myself some foam core boards in case I get bored this weekend....
I plan on doing the dual 3FE25-16 and I see some plans by Skylar88 and some fold and score .53x plans from MuddJester albeit intended for the TC9FDs. I’ve read posts where people say they used the fold and score plans for the 3FE25-16 but I’m not seeing that being possible. Are those fold and score plans usable with the 3FE25-16?
Thanks!
I plan on doing the dual 3FE25-16 and I see some plans by Skylar88 and some fold and score .53x plans from MuddJester albeit intended for the TC9FDs. I’ve read posts where people say they used the fold and score plans for the 3FE25-16 but I’m not seeing that being possible. Are those fold and score plans usable with the 3FE25-16?
Thanks!
The way to check is to make sure the length of the panel that supports the drivers is long enough to fit the cutouts for the drivers plus extra for clearance and angle of basket.
Seeing more folks choosing 3FE25-16 over TC9FDs. Any one to share their sonic impressions of these 2 drivers in the Karlsonator .53x. I can't build both versions so will have to only pick one type.
I like them both. I think TC9 has deeper bass, but 3FE25 sounds more crisp with more top end reach. You can make a replaceable baffle plate and try both. Needs to be sealed with a gasket.
Has anyone tried making a dual driver version using one of each of the TC9 and 3FE25? Any idea how that would sound or how you would model it?
You would need to use the 3FE25-8 and end up with 4ohm overall. It could be modeled in Akabak and that would show how bass would come out but not the top end. I think it would sound decent - a bit of both.
Would the placement of the drivers make a significant difference? Meaning a preference for one driver or the other on top or bottom? Clearly that would make a removable, gasketed baffle all the better for experimentation.