I tried them with some screw-in piezos and wasn't able to tame the harshness. I have a set of cardboard tubes using some no-name buyout 6 ohm tweeters from parts express that sound pretty nice, but are pretty limited in power, most likely due to poor sensitivity- but the dispersion is pretty nice. I'd love to hear a set with quality drivers.
Yeah with the quality I get out of this combo I get really tempted to try something intended for the purpose, not just random things I find at home 🙂
Some paint and a new Tweeter position. No huge difference from Tweeter on top. They are about 8° down.
Paint looks nice. Something very strange about the look of a k tube coming out of the aperture.
I've used a K-tube which pokes out the aperture - also they work well with the tip of the tube right at the main K-aperture (assuming the tube is long enough).
How much distance is there from the inner baffle to the aperture? I cut down a K-tube to ~3.7" overall length but didn't finish measuring the results.
Eminence's old B102 with ~0.23 qts played surprising well in a "Pioneer" K-tube copy topped with a helper K-tube - drums sound powerful with almost no visible cone excursion
How much distance is there from the inner baffle to the aperture? I cut down a K-tube to ~3.7" overall length but didn't finish measuring the results.
Eminence's old B102 with ~0.23 qts played surprising well in a "Pioneer" K-tube copy topped with a helper K-tube - drums sound powerful with almost no visible cone excursion
something else to try with compression drivers would be a mini - klam - Here's a blurry picture of Alan Weiss's tweeter lens for an Eminence 1" format compression driver for a 5.1 (or possibly 7.1) system. It was used in conjunction with (IIRC) one Beta 8A in the satellites plus a modified K12 type for a subwoofer.
ah - here's a video from a few years back - I think its a 15 inch Karlsonator
YouTube
noop - its (what does it do?):
and in the tiggersound THAthread a "Kjin" - - that 12cm dimension port is full cabinet width
YouTube
noop - its (what does it do?):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and in the tiggersound THAthread a "Kjin" - - that 12cm dimension port is full cabinet width
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Yeah i thought it would give them some life 🙂
Now i got a Umik-1 and a minidsp HD. i made a sweep, generated some EQ settings and made another sweep. Blue is before the EQ is applied and green is after.
Added a chaotic photo of the setup!
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The Tweeter is mounted direktly on the baffle, so the dome is less than an inch from the baffle. That puts the Tweeter source slightly behind the woofer. Or basically where the voice coil is. Can send a drawing when I'm at the computer.
Where do you find all this strange Tweeters and appertures anyway? 🙂
Hi,
Planning to build a wooden MiniK with dual TC9FD. Was planning to use the CAD drawing from the first post using the "original, scaled by x.53" measurements. It uses 10(.1) mm wooden panels, which I can not obtain in ply here but in MDF I can.
Questions:
- Is it wise to use the original scaled model for this?
- Is it wise to use MDF instead of the normally used ply?
- Are braces necessary with the wooden version and/or especially the 10mm panel version?
I suppose I have to play with the damping material, using the hints from xrk as a starting point.
I am planning to power each driver separately (so I can use both channels of a mini class D stereo amp fed with two mono inputs).
Steef
Planning to build a wooden MiniK with dual TC9FD. Was planning to use the CAD drawing from the first post using the "original, scaled by x.53" measurements. It uses 10(.1) mm wooden panels, which I can not obtain in ply here but in MDF I can.
Questions:
- Is it wise to use the original scaled model for this?
- Is it wise to use MDF instead of the normally used ply?
- Are braces necessary with the wooden version and/or especially the 10mm panel version?
I suppose I have to play with the damping material, using the hints from xrk as a starting point.
I am planning to power each driver separately (so I can use both channels of a mini class D stereo amp fed with two mono inputs).
Steef
imo mdf is fine.
it is easier to cut, but not as durable and good looking as plywood.
i'm happy with my 0.9mm ply x.53's and i used the braces and i think it was the orignal scaled model.
it is easier to cut, but not as durable and good looking as plywood.
i'm happy with my 0.9mm ply x.53's and i used the braces and i think it was the orignal scaled model.
The results of my surgery... I made a square incision to the top panel, removed the foam as suggested and re-attached the square panel. Then I covered with stick backed plastic.
It has made a difference, although not a massive improvement. It is most likely the tiny output transformers, so I've another pair on the way which should have higher bandwidth.
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Yeah I guessed that LOL. Considering 9mm ply then too. Where the braces necessary for the stiffness or the sonics, or did you throw them in just because?
When building out of wood make sure you add melamine foam on the interior on all surfaces in line of sight contact with rear cone. I added a layer of foam core to the inside of my K aperture and melamine foam on the sides of the front chamber.
0.9mm would have been interesting.
very lightweight.
i didn't try without braces.
They seemed to make sense....🙄
Just finished my first .53X set with two Faitalpro's. First tests - with my red king class a tube amplifier is quite amazing - I have not tried karlsons before, and they really shine in their way of just engaging with the music and the room. I first tried my little Denon amplifier, but a good amplifier really seems to make a difference on this really cheap loudspeakers. I used Muddjesters nice score-andfolds plan, with a slight modification to make room for the faitals in the bottom.
I ordered two more Faitals to prepare for a set of the small ones ..
I ordered two more Faitals to prepare for a set of the small ones ..
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