Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FDs

Once again just something cheap I had laying around.
13DT48P - Hifi - Hogtalarelement - Komponenter

They are a little harsh on their own but with the tube it behaves a lot smoother.

I tried them with some screw-in piezos and wasn't able to tame the harshness. I have a set of cardboard tubes using some no-name buyout 6 ohm tweeters from parts express that sound pretty nice, but are pretty limited in power, most likely due to poor sensitivity- but the dispersion is pretty nice. I'd love to hear a set with quality drivers.
 
I tried them with some screw-in piezos and wasn't able to tame the harshness. I have a set of cardboard tubes using some no-name buyout 6 ohm tweeters from parts express that sound pretty nice, but are pretty limited in power, most likely due to poor sensitivity- but the dispersion is pretty nice. I'd love to hear a set with quality drivers.
Yeah with the quality I get out of this combo I get really tempted to try something intended for the purpose, not just random things I find at home :)
 
Some paint and a new Tweeter position. No huge difference from Tweeter on top. They are about 8° down. 20190105_191921.jpeg 20190105_191902.jpeg
 
I've used a K-tube which pokes out the aperture - also they work well with the tip of the tube right at the main K-aperture (assuming the tube is long enough).

How much distance is there from the inner baffle to the aperture? I cut down a K-tube to ~3.7" overall length but didn't finish measuring the results.


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Eminence's old B102 with ~0.23 qts played surprising well in a "Pioneer" K-tube copy topped with a helper K-tube - drums sound powerful with almost no visible cone excursion
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something else to try with compression drivers would be a mini - klam - Here's a blurry picture of Alan Weiss's tweeter lens for an Eminence 1" format compression driver for a 5.1 (or possibly 7.1) system. It was used in conjunction with (IIRC) one Beta 8A in the satellites plus a modified K12 type for a subwoofer.

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Paint looks nice. Something very strange about the look of a k tube coming out of the aperture.

Yeah i thought it would give them some life :)

Now i got a Umik-1 and a minidsp HD. i made a sweep, generated some EQ settings and made another sweep. Blue is before the EQ is applied and green is after.

Added a chaotic photo of the setup!
 

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I've used a K-tube which pokes out the aperture - also they work well with the tip of the tube right at the main K-aperture (assuming the tube is long enough).



How much distance is there from the inner baffle to the aperture? I cut down a K-tube to ~3.7" overall length but didn't finish measuring the results.

The Tweeter is mounted direktly on the baffle, so the dome is less than an inch from the baffle. That puts the Tweeter source slightly behind the woofer. Or basically where the voice coil is. Can send a drawing when I'm at the computer.

Where do you find all this strange Tweeters and appertures anyway? :) 1546972620142.jpeg media-3468609807320690914.jpeg
 
Hi,

Planning to build a wooden MiniK with dual TC9FD. Was planning to use the CAD drawing from the first post using the "original, scaled by x.53" measurements. It uses 10(.1) mm wooden panels, which I can not obtain in ply here but in MDF I can.

Questions:
- Is it wise to use the original scaled model for this?
- Is it wise to use MDF instead of the normally used ply?
- Are braces necessary with the wooden version and/or especially the 10mm panel version?

I suppose I have to play with the damping material, using the hints from xrk as a starting point.

I am planning to power each driver separately (so I can use both channels of a mini class D stereo amp fed with two mono inputs).

Steef
 
I think you have put in toooo much damping. Especially at the top. Looks like the damping is blocking the vent at the top. If possible, try and remove this to see if the bass improves?

There is some adjustment possible of stuffing via driver cutout. You can also perform surgery with xacto after assembly. Cut small window and replace and glue back on later.

This is probably what I’ll have to do - totally failed in removing the foam from the top panel through the aperture... I may also cover the surgical hole and edges with sticky backed plastic to ensure a seal.

The results of my surgery... I made a square incision to the top panel, removed the foam as suggested and re-attached the square panel. Then I covered with stick backed plastic.

It has made a difference, although not a massive improvement. It is most likely the tiny output transformers, so I've another pair on the way which should have higher bandwidth.
 

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Just finished my first .53X set with two Faitalpro's. First tests - with my red king class a tube amplifier is quite amazing - I have not tried karlsons before, and they really shine in their way of just engaging with the music and the room. I first tried my little Denon amplifier, but a good amplifier really seems to make a difference on this really cheap loudspeakers. I used Muddjesters nice score-andfolds plan, with a slight modification to make room for the faitals in the bottom.
I ordered two more Faitals to prepare for a set of the small ones ..
 

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