Hi everyone,
I'm having issue assembling my 0.4x Karlsonator !
I used the MuddJester, score and fold plans, but i'm having dimensions issues.
Am i the first one ?
Any help would be welcome ... thanks !
[edit]
Ha ha. Never mind guys, i figured it out. (Thanks to xrk971 assembly post).
Reason is simple : i was folding it the wrong way.
It seemed obvious, didn't read carefully enough, and bam, wrong way. And all the dimensions were off.
But now, obviously, it's all good.
Time to glue !
I'm having issue assembling my 0.4x Karlsonator !
I used the MuddJester, score and fold plans, but i'm having dimensions issues.
Am i the first one ?
Any help would be welcome ... thanks !
[edit]
Ha ha. Never mind guys, i figured it out. (Thanks to xrk971 assembly post).
Reason is simple : i was folding it the wrong way.
It seemed obvious, didn't read carefully enough, and bam, wrong way. And all the dimensions were off.
But now, obviously, it's all good.
Time to glue !
Last edited:
And, voilà !
Took me a while, way more than 2 hours. Probably like 10 or 12.
But i took my time to make things right, clean, and i'm super happy with the outcome.
I only encoutered two issues :
- speakers screws; i think my foamcore isn't sturdy enough, and most of the screws were failed in the process. Now i don't know how to attach them properly
- they both sound muffled. I may have used too much stuffing ? Or is it something else ?
Took me a while, way more than 2 hours. Probably like 10 or 12.
But i took my time to make things right, clean, and i'm super happy with the outcome.
I only encoutered two issues :
- speakers screws; i think my foamcore isn't sturdy enough, and most of the screws were failed in the process. Now i don't know how to attach them properly
- they both sound muffled. I may have used too much stuffing ? Or is it something else ?
Beautiful work, Pandax. Glue several layers of triple ply corrugated cardboard squares (2cm x 2cm) on back where screws pierce, as “nuts”.
Muffled sound: usually that means the front aperture may be too small or driver is not well suited. What driver is that? Ps95-8? Or not enough felt/ foam directly behind driver to cancel back reflection dips).
Muffled sound: usually that means the front aperture may be too small or driver is not well suited. What driver is that? Ps95-8? Or not enough felt/ foam directly behind driver to cancel back reflection dips).
Thanks guys !
For the screws, i'll try that when reopening them.
The driver is indeed a PS95-8. It was easier / cheaper to get than TC9, so i went along with them. Feedback were pretty positive ... was it a poor choice ?
As for felt / foam, i'm probably wrong.
No felt at all, little foam, and probably too much stuffing.
Oops
For the screws, i'll try that when reopening them.
The driver is indeed a PS95-8. It was easier / cheaper to get than TC9, so i went along with them. Feedback were pretty positive ... was it a poor choice ?
As for felt / foam, i'm probably wrong.
No felt at all, little foam, and probably too much stuffing.
Oops
Not a poor choice at all! My PS95-8 mini k's sounded great from day one. A year later they're still playing music every day for all of my co-workers.
Sorry for the lack of interior photos. They went together quick! I used something similar to felt and the same amount of polyfill stuffing that XRK recommended in his early posts.
Last edited:
Thanks X. I really liked the look of the copper phase plug. It sold me on the PS95's. Plus a few good reviews here and there. They can use a bit of attenuation above 9-10kHz but they're not horrible without it. The imaging is also pretty good with these in the mini-k. I'm hoping to build some .53's with the dual FE25's some day. I think it would be an interesting comparison.
Pandax. Interested to hear your impressions once you tweak the stuffing a bit.
Pandax. Interested to hear your impressions once you tweak the stuffing a bit.
Ok maybe just to old but looking up score and fold I only find info on making origami or greeting cards still do not know what score and fold means. one poster stated that he had been doing it the wrong way but I don't know what way he was doing it so that did not help. Sorry for being dense but how do you do this. and XRK971 I had already printed the drawings and saw where to score and fold but ...
OK got it
So use to drawings showing one channel, knowing I'd have to double it for the other, did not see the design was for both already. So on the aperture curve template in-between the dimension lines the measurement is only 10" so I should blame my printer? or should measure to the very end of the ink pass the 0.38" dimension line which seems right or does it even matter? and if using this for the PA130 the center line on part "A" is the same but the height needs to be up so the 130's magnet does not touche part "C"?
So use to drawings showing one channel, knowing I'd have to double it for the other, did not see the design was for both already. So on the aperture curve template in-between the dimension lines the measurement is only 10" so I should blame my printer? or should measure to the very end of the ink pass the 0.38" dimension line which seems right or does it even matter? and if using this for the PA130 the center line on part "A" is the same but the height needs to be up so the 130's magnet does not touche part "C"?
I just reconnected with my 0.40x Karlsonator fitted with 3FE25-4's and driven with a SMSL 36A-Pro Class D amp and Focusrite Solo DAC at my computer desk. I used real copper core speaker cables 16 ga stranded, soldered to gold plated banana jacks for the amp connection. Wow, the sound is stunning, still, after all these years is just amazing! The richness and clarity of the mids and highs, and the depth and quality of bass. I see why it is one of the all-time favorite speakers here on DIYA based on thread views and successful builds. It does not disappoint!
Listening to Adele's "Million Years Ago", very very nice performance.
Listening to Adele's "Million Years Ago", very very nice performance.
But the 0.53x with dual 3FE25-16's is still the tops, correct X??? I'm about to pull the trigger on those drivers!
Oh! And FYI to everyone, Parts Express has the TC9's on sale for $9 a piece right now.
Last edited:
Yes, the dual 3FE25-16's in parallel are still the top design as far as sensitivity (97dB at 2.83v). I have not personally heard it myself but can imagine it is similar to the single 3FE25 but deeper bass and way more dynsmics.
I'm pretty sure I was the first to build 0.53x with dual 3FE25-16's and after many months I'm still amazed at how big they sound. Obviously, it depends on what you drive them with. I'm now using a DAC + B1 + ACA and after upgrading interconnects and speaker cables, the K's just got better and better.
@jwjarch
Go for it. You can't go wrong.
I've since done away with the baffle steps (which were used to tame the high frequencies which was a bit harsh on my ears). Now I'm just using the equalizer on my playback app to cut highs and boost lows slightly. I still can't help smiling when I listen to some tracks. These speakers have no right to sound that good!
.
@jwjarch
Go for it. You can't go wrong.
I've since done away with the baffle steps (which were used to tame the high frequencies which was a bit harsh on my ears). Now I'm just using the equalizer on my playback app to cut highs and boost lows slightly. I still can't help smiling when I listen to some tracks. These speakers have no right to sound that good!
.
You sold me guys! The 3FE25's are on their way! Along with 6 TC9's for other designs.
Looking forward to cutting some foam core soon. I might try to veneer this set of mini k's or even build them out of thin-ply. We'll see...
And now I have a AKSA Preamp and an ALPHA 20 to drive them with. Thanks to Hugh, X, and JPS64!
Looking forward to cutting some foam core soon. I might try to veneer this set of mini k's or even build them out of thin-ply. We'll see...
And now I have a AKSA Preamp and an ALPHA 20 to drive them with. Thanks to Hugh, X, and JPS64!