30-50VA toroids with >1.2A spec (0.6+0.6A) have been doing OK in the majority of such builds. Talking (2x200)*3.
HI Salas, i have the pcb Mezmerize, all the components necessary and a transformer 50v rcore 2X15v, in short, everything you need to begin to solder, but I do not feel safe just because it is my first time! 😱
Do you have a guide or a tutorial for the consequences of assembly, but especially on how to match the LEDs explained simple, very simple ..
Thank you very much.
Do you have a guide or a tutorial for the consequences of assembly, but especially on how to match the LEDs explained simple, very simple ..
Thank you very much.
Assemble the Power supply alone. Test it using a mains bulb tester. Check voltages.
Assemble the Power section of the PCB.
Test it using the Mains bulb tester. Check voltages
Assemble the CCS section. Test it using a Mains bulb tester. Check voltages.
Assemble the Shunt regulator section. Test it using a Mains bulb tester. Check voltages.
Do you see a pattern in the methodology?
Assemble the Power section of the PCB.
Test it using the Mains bulb tester. Check voltages
Assemble the CCS section. Test it using a Mains bulb tester. Check voltages.
Assemble the Shunt regulator section. Test it using a Mains bulb tester. Check voltages.
Do you see a pattern in the methodology?
Thanks for the reply but i think I'm more clumsy / unprepared than you think, for sure!
Before starting with the welds, i'll wait for other aid / guide.
And what about metod for coupling of the LED?
Before starting with the welds, i'll wait for other aid / guide.
And what about metod for coupling of the LED?
Have you got DMM with diode mode strong enough that can light up an LED? If yes, use it to find near enough LEDS. Else use a 9V battery, put 1K on (+) then LED anode in series, return cathode to (-). Measure VDC across LED when shining. Watch the "D" symbol printed on PCB for orientation of each group, nothing else. There is a flat cut on any LED's rim, that one goes towards the flat part of the "D".
Diodes are ok, but I measure 11,87V across the diode and thus across the coils of the TQ2- 5V relays. Probably fried the poor things?
You had the 150R there right from the start? If it was in between the 12V regulator chip and the 5V relays it should have dropped voltage across itself and protected them. Is there any jumper installed in place of the resistor spots printed 300R by any chance?
I bought the board as fully functional, the resistor was in there when I got it.
Is there a way to check the relay when in place? I measured a resistance of 182 ohms across pin 1 and 2, close to the specs of the relay. Don't hear a switching click at power on or of.
One other thing I notice is that there seems to be no delay at power on, the voltage is right there from the start.
Is there a way to check the relay when in place? I measured a resistance of 182 ohms across pin 1 and 2, close to the specs of the relay. Don't hear a switching click at power on or of.
One other thing I notice is that there seems to be no delay at power on, the voltage is right there from the start.
Ehm, it has been in place, but not when I measured these last values. Will do better tomorrow.
Don't know, the headquarters arrange the shop, I only contributed the design. As far as I have seen they don't take that long to replenish but better ask directly. There is a "contact us" link at the bottom of some page in the store.
Hi Salas, hi all. On signal output there are 4 resistors 220ohm 1/4w. It's possible to use 200ohm resistors instead? Change something in operation or in the audio? Thank you.