At the end of the power section for the 100uF caps can I use 20V peaces? Or it may go higher than 20V at turn on or turn off?
If I use 16VAC trafo, that makes about 23VDC at the PSU caps.
If I use 16VAC trafo, that makes about 23VDC at the PSU caps.
If you mean the output side +/-10V of the regulator you can obviously use 20V capacitors there. Though higher voltage ones usually got better characteristics also.
I use 15Vac transformer and generally get around 22Vdc. I use 25V capacitors, or higher depending on what stock I have in the various sizes.
I don't think 20V electrolytics are generally available. The next lower voltage available is 16V
I don't think 20V electrolytics are generally available. The next lower voltage available is 16V
Hi salas.
I matched my leds to 9,027V and 5,468 between rails.
My outputs are 9,83V and -9,57V.
V across 2*68R is 1,821 and 1,966 giving ~54mA and ~58mA.
I'm using a 2*15VAC trafo, 50VA.
Is it the leds setting the output voltage? This if I choose to get them perfect at 10V 😉.
Regards
I matched my leds to 9,027V and 5,468 between rails.
My outputs are 9,83V and -9,57V.
V across 2*68R is 1,821 and 1,966 giving ~54mA and ~58mA.
I'm using a 2*15VAC trafo, 50VA.
Is it the leds setting the output voltage? This if I choose to get them perfect at 10V 😉.
Regards
The outputs seems to have stabilized at 9.8 and 9.55 giving an error of -2% and -4.7%.
Error between rails is about 2.6%.
Regards
Error between rails is about 2.6%.
Regards
The error between your measured rails and 10V is largely immaterial. However it is better to try and get them close to each other.
i.e. +9.6V and -9.6V would be great.
i.e. +9.6V and -9.6V would be great.
The error between your measured rails and 10V is largely immaterial. However it is better to try and get them close to each other.
i.e. +9.6V and -9.6V would be great.
Roger that... How? Increase or decrease v-drop over leds to get v-out up or down?
Regards
The outputs seems to have stabilized at 9.8 and 9.55 giving an error of -2% and -4.7%.
Error between rails is about 2.6%.
Regards
That kind of rails matching error is designed in the Mezmerize. It goofs the THD profile for running likeably in lower reg bias than in the Hypno.
If you want to listen to it in orthodox mode you got to perform the "leg trick".
Read paragraph one in post 1 there: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/153484-using-hypnotize-general-shunt-reg-pcb.html
*The guide comments relative to first picture is what you need in this case. Then your LEDS quintet will let match in circuit too.
Read paragraph one in post 1 there: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/153484-using-hypnotize-general-shunt-reg-pcb.html
*The guide comments relative to first picture is what you need in this case. Then your LEDS quintet will let match in circuit too.
OK, I stand corrected, I've only got the standard B1 but I'm powering it with a Salas regulator.
In my case I use the reg as a single 18V supply even though it does +/-.
The third photo was my Mesmerise but I preferred the original B1 so I chopped the board and just used the regulator part of it.
In my case I use the reg as a single 18V supply even though it does +/-.
The third photo was my Mesmerise but I preferred the original B1 so I chopped the board and just used the regulator part of it.
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That kind of rails matching error is designed in the Mezmerize. It goofs the THD profile for running likeably in lower reg bias than in the Hypno.
So it will sound worse if I start mocking with it?
If you want to listen to it in orthodox mode you got to perform the "leg trick".
Read paragraph one in post 1 there: Using the HYPNOTIZE as a general shunt reg PCB
Thanks - most interresting.
Regards
Down to preference. I recommend it as is, but do educate yourself, its an easy mod. You never know, some system synergy maybe tilts the balance. K&D prefers oil caps in the signal path for instance.
Down to preference. I recommend it as is, but do educate yourself, its an easy mod. You never know, some system synergy maybe tilts the balance. K&D prefers oil caps in the signal path for instance.
I'll keep it in mind - some rainy day maybe.
Regards
Exactly. If there was a perfect amplifier for all it would be here by now. We all have different hearing and also different expectations of what Hi-Fi should sound like. I took my Salas regs up to about 1A and could hear no difference, all that happened IME was that things got hotter which affects reliability, in the end I went back down to 10R - which if I remember correctly is about 100mA.
I run the B1 into an Aleph4 which is an altogether "Tubey" type sound, it's a lovely combination that probably suits the PIO output caps I'm using.
I've also got an F5 which I don't like, even with an Impasse pre-amp it sounds poor to my ears.
It's horses for courses - If you like the sound then you are almost there.
I run the B1 into an Aleph4 which is an altogether "Tubey" type sound, it's a lovely combination that probably suits the PIO output caps I'm using.
I've also got an F5 which I don't like, even with an Impasse pre-amp it sounds poor to my ears.
It's horses for courses - If you like the sound then you are almost there.
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Roger that... How? Increase or decrease v-drop over leds to get v-out up or down?
Regards
You can change the voltage by playing with different LEDs.
The standard, and original, B1, works fine with any voltage from about 12V up to about 36V.
I originally had mine with LM317 regulator and TBPH I'm kidding myself that it sounds better with the Salas reg.
I did try the capacitance multiplier and that did really sound awful. (Photo 2)
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Make a through hole vssa amp sometime to listen to since you turn home boards. Maybe you gonna like it.
Look in the solid section in amps.
I'll first build biguns tgm7 and then maybe an vssa to have somerhing to relate to. But it will take at least a year.
Regards
I'll first build biguns tgm7 and then maybe an vssa to have somerhing to relate to. But it will take at least a year.
Regards
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Roger that... How? Increase or decrease v-drop over leds to get v-out up or down?
You can change the voltage by playing with different LEDs.
The PCB tracks can easily be damaged, you could negate this by mounting the LED's on PCB pins, on my B1 I replaced the LED's with adjustable TL431's.
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