I'll post pictures when it's completed. I've also added a 21 Ohm 1% 3 watt resistor to my 10 Ohm to hot rod it a little bit more. Now the Heatsinks get warm. Spot check with temp gun reads 93*F on the Mosfets.
Thanks for all your help.
Ron
Thanks for all your help.
Ron
I have a problem, with my Mesmerize, not sure if it's a ghost, not sure what I am looking for.
Basically, when the system is powered no problem at all. I have 300mV of offset when the system is powered off. This with no connection to anything whatsoever.
The only explanation I have is that there is a capacitor trying to discharge from the output, but the funny thing is that if I shorten the output and then open it again, the 300mV come back.
I am really puzzled. It could be that I have been living with this for years.
Please let me understand.
Thanks,
Davide
Basically, when the system is powered no problem at all. I have 300mV of offset when the system is powered off. This with no connection to anything whatsoever.
The only explanation I have is that there is a capacitor trying to discharge from the output, but the funny thing is that if I shorten the output and then open it again, the 300mV come back.
I am really puzzled. It could be that I have been living with this for years.
Please let me understand.
Thanks,
Davide
I've just swap meet'd a bunch of heatsinks that would suit the SALAS Shunt PSU as long as you're not running crazy amps through it.
Maybe something with absolute ground potential? Make it be shorting to ground when off. Is it the pcb with a T arrangement on the output relay that does it already, or one older?
The pcb is from tea-bag is written layout by crt, but there is no version. It's blue.
I'll make some test...no earlier than one month 🙁
Thanks,
Davide
I'll make some test...no earlier than one month 🙁
Thanks,
Davide
I am not sure about the pcb, but when the system is off, I measure something like 100kohm. I think you are suggesting me a solution. I can add the connections.
D.
D.
Look up close its parts side, use a flash light. Is there a possibility the "T" is missing from upper layer?
Long story short: I AM AN IDIOT !!!
When I assembled the PCB I did con solder all the pins of the relays, so that it would have been easier to remove them if I needed. I did not see that there was a T.
I put my speaker in danger for two years like this, I am surprise I did not destroy them.
Thanks for the help.
D.
When I assembled the PCB I did con solder all the pins of the relays, so that it would have been easier to remove them if I needed. I did not see that there was a T.
I put my speaker in danger for two years like this, I am surprise I did not destroy them.
Thanks for the help.
D.
NOT an IDIOT!
That was good thinking, it just didn't work out this time, a learning experience for everyone.
No harm, no foul 🙂 - glad you figured it out.
Rush
This is my build. There is an auxiliary psu for the main relay, as the input selector is used also as main switch.
One input is connected to a balanced to se converter, namely "the wire" by opc.
Thanks,
D.
They are iphone pictures.
D.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
D.