I did realize that, I thought those numbers might be enough for you to tell. The numbers are way different when I use the body, but they aren't no where near the example given. And I got the jist by you only giving me the basic info and only answering relevant questions that I have to look up things on my own and answer many of my own questions. I don't think my multi meter has a diode checker setting.
ok...here are the readings for the OT made in Mexico(the one with the visible writing on it)When I had the black wire on the body and the red lead to pole 1 to the left,347. Black to body, red to right pole #2 I got 465. With the other OT when I had the red lead to the body and the black lead to pole #1 on the left, I got 360 and when I moved the black lead to ploe 2 on the right 472. Does that tell you anything? And here is my DBT
your DBT looks good and so long as it's wired correctly as per instructions should work just fine.what wattage lamp are you currently using?
well if i understand your description of your tests correctly the prognosis is not good and all points measured with respect to the "body" indicate all windings are shorted to ground....
to be certain, these are resistance readings correct? you also seem to be describing the presence of two transformers?
with respect to the DBT so long as the limit lamp portion of the duplex plug has the joining tab removed on the hot side and the two sections are wired so as to form a series circuit all is good.
i'd collect a few wattages starting at 40 then a 60 and a 100 watts.
the problem with acronym's or contraction's is that OT can mean "output transformer" or "output transistor" or it could mean "off topic" so unless the participants are clear as to what it means confusion can lead to misunderstanding,sorry.
when testing the output transistors there's three terminals to deal with, base, emitter, collector ( or case the thing your calling the "body") and two possible polarities provided by your multimeter leads creating two possible conditions across three terminals and knowing (also noting) all the reading is where the true determination of "OT" condition will be made, but with a slow and methodical approach i'm sure you'll get there.
i'd collect a few wattages starting at 40 then a 60 and a 100 watts.
the problem with acronym's or contraction's is that OT can mean "output transformer" or "output transistor" or it could mean "off topic" so unless the participants are clear as to what it means confusion can lead to misunderstanding,sorry.
when testing the output transistors there's three terminals to deal with, base, emitter, collector ( or case the thing your calling the "body") and two possible polarities provided by your multimeter leads creating two possible conditions across three terminals and knowing (also noting) all the reading is where the true determination of "OT" condition will be made, but with a slow and methodical approach i'm sure you'll get there.
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I tried all possible combinations of the test leads. The 1st numbers I gave you was when I put the leads on the emitter and collector only. Those were the high numbers. I used the OT abrev. because I thought it was known that we were testing the transistors. That is what you wanted me to pull and test, right? Or is it the transformer? I would like to know if that is good or not, being it is the most expensive part if you can even find one for it.
well it's apparent the link on transistor testing did no good and the concept of diode behavior is foreign to you.
sorry to say but without you knowing at least some of these things it will be virtually impossible to assist you with this.
are the "numbers" your asking about the values you reported in post #86?
sorry to say but without you knowing at least some of these things it will be virtually impossible to assist you with this.
are the "numbers" your asking about the values you reported in post #86?
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no, the link did do some good, I just didn't remember the proper names of the contacts. As far as the numbers that were given in the example, well, mine are no where even close to those. Would a better tester or meter help me out with this? I did get the bridge rectifier today, 2 of them actually.
I have a question that has been bugging me from the start. I don't know if you can them or not, but wired to the bottom side of the board near the mounted glass fuse, #3 I believe, there are 2, 6 amp, 250 volt littlfuse's in inline holders, like a fuse-able link you'd see in a auto wiring. Are those supposed to be there? or was it a modification?
And I did do some reading on diode theory. It doesn't really make sense to me. I didn't get an " ah-ha." experience out of it. But I don't really think it matters if I get it or not. in order to repair the amp, which is what my goal is. If I learn something in the process, lucky me, but it is not imperative. What matters is if I can convey the information you need to diagnois the problems and h ave me do the repairs.
I have a question that has been bugging me from the start. I don't know if you can them or not, but wired to the bottom side of the board near the mounted glass fuse, #3 I believe, there are 2, 6 amp, 250 volt littlfuse's in inline holders, like a fuse-able link you'd see in a auto wiring. Are those supposed to be there? or was it a modification?
And I did do some reading on diode theory. It doesn't really make sense to me. I didn't get an " ah-ha." experience out of it. But I don't really think it matters if I get it or not. in order to repair the amp, which is what my goal is. If I learn something in the process, lucky me, but it is not imperative. What matters is if I can convey the information you need to diagnois the problems and h ave me do the repairs.
Sorry but we are nearing the 100th reply and we have not advanced one inch yet, running in circles all the time.
Don´t see much future here.
A Tech is needed, or at least some friendly Hobbyist who likes Electronics, can read schematics, measure voltage/resistance and some other basic Electronics skills.
Pity because that amp looks VERY repairable, even if output transistors need replacement, plus a couple parts, but what takes 1 hour net bench time for an experienced Tech who has most parts already in stock, only "special" ones would be the power switch and Darlington transistors, can become a PAINFUL 500 reply 3 Month exchange with no guaranteed outcome.
Our Friend Turk182 has been incredibly patient but sadly this is leading nowhere.
I would keep that chassis until some local whiz boy appears or sell it as-is to somebody for parts or repair and use.
Personal opinion, others may differ.
Don´t see much future here.
A Tech is needed, or at least some friendly Hobbyist who likes Electronics, can read schematics, measure voltage/resistance and some other basic Electronics skills.
Pity because that amp looks VERY repairable, even if output transistors need replacement, plus a couple parts, but what takes 1 hour net bench time for an experienced Tech who has most parts already in stock, only "special" ones would be the power switch and Darlington transistors, can become a PAINFUL 500 reply 3 Month exchange with no guaranteed outcome.
Our Friend Turk182 has been incredibly patient but sadly this is leading nowhere.
I would keep that chassis until some local whiz boy appears or sell it as-is to somebody for parts or repair and use.
Personal opinion, others may differ.
Fahey: Thanks for your negative comments. If I had a tech or repair shop that I could trust to not gouge me and charge me more than what the amp is worth, I would gladly do it. I have plenty of other thing to do in my in box that I do know how to do that I could be tending to. It was very disheartening to read your comment, as I am usually eager and look forward to the next bit of info that Turk 182 has so freely given. It sounds like YOU have the knowledge, but not the patience or desire, to help an ignorant wanna-be, like myself, or at least point him in the right direction, not the door. This site is called DIY. That's what I'm trying to do. I didn't know it was an insider's nerdy tech site that only shares information amongst themselves. Even you, who is most likely old enough to be my father, was not born with this information or abilities. You learned from somewhere, somebody. Are you a moderator? Have I somehow broken the rules or been unduly offensive? I'm sorry things are not moving fast enough for you and if it somehow burdens you, simply do not read it. I don't need validation from you. My mother used to always say,"If you don't have something nice to say, don't say anything at all." I was also directed by another to try to always frame my suggestions to others in the context of constructive criticism and not be offensive. I also try not to be a burden on anyone and try not to depend on anyone for anything. This is one of those rare instances where I an almost helpless, completely dependent, have to trust and have faith that the information and help I'm receiving is true and correct. Not an easy thing to do for me. And Yes, Turk 182 has been very helpful and patient and may regret taking the time to bother, but I'm glad he did and continues to do so. Your advice to him to giver it up makes me feel like saying F^$% it and taking a hammer to it.
You know, it has been said, when a student comes forth, a teacher or master shall appear. When a master is ready, a student shall appear. You can't have one without the other.
I DO appreciate all that has been given, but if I am becoming a pain in the rear, let me know and I'll figure it out somewhere else.
You know, it has been said, when a student comes forth, a teacher or master shall appear. When a master is ready, a student shall appear. You can't have one without the other.
I DO appreciate all that has been given, but if I am becoming a pain in the rear, let me know and I'll figure it out somewhere else.
