Triffid... a simple little TV/FM/CD speaker
Quick easy speaker for a small room driven by 20W using DVD/FM/CD as sources.
Vented speaker, Vb=6 litres, Fb=59Hz, F3=49Hz, option of BSC / no BSC, long hair wool damping in the lower 200mm of tube, selective damping on inside walls. Can go lower but I've picked a compromise between low extension and power handling and the BSC is not required in it's current application.
Not usually a fullrange user but rate this driver above FR125S (sealed, vented), FE127E (vented, TL), W3-871SC (vented) in that order. Gets a thumbs up as a fullrange driver as unlike a lot of the others it does cover a broad range very well just like the FR125S but with a bit more life and detail. The detail can go missing in action when things get congested but that's to be expected at this price point and driver type.
The SPL is not a problem in my case as most amps have excessive gain anyway. The low impedance could be an issue for some amps (some tubes?) and also ChipAmps that are running high rail voltages.
Quick easy speaker for a small room driven by 20W using DVD/FM/CD as sources.
Vented speaker, Vb=6 litres, Fb=59Hz, F3=49Hz, option of BSC / no BSC, long hair wool damping in the lower 200mm of tube, selective damping on inside walls. Can go lower but I've picked a compromise between low extension and power handling and the BSC is not required in it's current application.
Not usually a fullrange user but rate this driver above FR125S (sealed, vented), FE127E (vented, TL), W3-871SC (vented) in that order. Gets a thumbs up as a fullrange driver as unlike a lot of the others it does cover a broad range very well just like the FR125S but with a bit more life and detail. The detail can go missing in action when things get congested but that's to be expected at this price point and driver type.
The SPL is not a problem in my case as most amps have excessive gain anyway. The low impedance could be an issue for some amps (some tubes?) and also ChipAmps that are running high rail voltages.
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Scottmoose said:
italynstylion said:
^I never got a response to this. If my terrible math is correct that would mean all 3 sides should be ~1.155inches?
Yes, although it's not particularly critical.italynstylion said:
Well Scott can correct me on this, but I think the exact geometry of this part is one of the lesser critical areas of the design. IIRC, on the Aiko with a similar wedge, I used a right / isosceles triangle (45/90/45) as I frequently use this shape for inside corner blocks as well, and had a few dozen feet of material pre-cut.
So with a height of 1" (25.4mm), the sides would be 1.41" (36mm)
If the plans call for it to be a certain size I'm more than happy to get it right. I just wanted to be sure .
I cut the majority of the wood today and I have to cut a few more pieces tomorrow morning. I'll start assembly in the afternoon.
I cut the majority of the wood today and I have to cut a few more pieces tomorrow morning. I'll start assembly in the afternoon.
Here is a visualization of one potential realization of the Lotus^2 (2 driver Lotus). This is the direction Chris & i have been talking wrt the ones we have underway. Note that the brace for the side driver is a circular shim mounted on the main holey brace.
dave
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
dave
The drivers that are located on the sides of the cabinet; should they fire towards the center of the sound stage or away?
italynstylion said:
Depends on your room and the speaker placement. Lots of opportunity to play.
dave
planet10 said:
Ok. I'd never played with a speaker that was setup like that so I didn't know if one way was inherently better than another.
Dave, vertical placement of the drivers is a half basket from the middle, as you said. But what is the distance of the side driver's center from the front of the cabinet?
italynstylion said:
I did that by feel. Close by with enuff room to minimize reflections off the baffle (on the inside)
dave
I started clamping a few things today and got carried away. I ended up finishing the assembly for the BVR's. They are still bare wood but I'm going to test them out and listen to them a bit before I finish them with paint.
Honestly, I would have heard them tonight if it weren't for one thing. I thought I had a bunch of really small screws to mount the drivers. Actually, I do have them....but they aren't small enough! I didn't realize just how small the mounting holes are. It's ok though. I'll hear them tomorrow morning after I go to Lowes and get some screws.
Honestly, I would have heard them tonight if it weren't for one thing. I thought I had a bunch of really small screws to mount the drivers. Actually, I do have them....but they aren't small enough! I didn't realize just how small the mounting holes are. It's ok though. I'll hear them tomorrow morning after I go to Lowes and get some screws.
italynstylion said:
Shall we start a pool for when they do get finished... i'm in for early 2010.
dave
Friend of mine might be commissioning me to build him some new speakers for his home theater system. I'd like to try something nifty with the CHR70s. He wants something relatively badass to go with their 58" plasma and all that, so I was thinking pairs multple chr70s for left, right, and center, and a single chr70 for each of the rears. Floor standing BR (or maybe something fancier?) for the left and right, sealed center and rears. They already have a decent powered sub with adjustable crossover.
now, with the whole "doubling up full-rangers" being a problem with the phase cancelling thing, I was thinking of other ways to incorporate these drivers into multi-way speakers. First I was thinking maybe two CHR70s as mid-bass drivers, with a single Alpair5 in the middle running the highs.
Getting into the Alpair stuff might be a little overkill in this case, and I'm thinking "if the CHR70 is enough quality but just not enough quantity.. why not just add more of em?" So what about a 3-way CHR70 floor stander, with the top and bottom drivers running mid-bass, and the center one running highs.
Am I totally off my rocker?
Would certainly look slick, anyway 😛
I was thinking wire the midbass units together in parallel, and wire them in series with the treble unit, then balance them out in the crossover, working out to a overall 6-8ohm unit, which seems tasty
now, with the whole "doubling up full-rangers" being a problem with the phase cancelling thing, I was thinking of other ways to incorporate these drivers into multi-way speakers. First I was thinking maybe two CHR70s as mid-bass drivers, with a single Alpair5 in the middle running the highs.
Getting into the Alpair stuff might be a little overkill in this case, and I'm thinking "if the CHR70 is enough quality but just not enough quantity.. why not just add more of em?" So what about a 3-way CHR70 floor stander, with the top and bottom drivers running mid-bass, and the center one running highs.
Am I totally off my rocker?
Would certainly look slick, anyway 😛
I was thinking wire the midbass units together in parallel, and wire them in series with the treble unit, then balance them out in the crossover, working out to a overall 6-8ohm unit, which seems tasty
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