I've soldered on top of the opam before the socket.
I can try to solder to the socket with the remaining opamp.
So the value should be lower?
I really do not suggest anything - this issue is very much a matter of personal preference.
But my top 3 is LM4562, LME49720HA and OPA2134 - have fun 😉
If you soldered directly on top of the opamp then you fried your chip.
I still recommend soldering it beneath the board with opamp removed when soldering.
The values that I have used have been 100...200nF.
Resoldered on the socket ... Now it works also with the original opamp ! Thank you so much
Hi Gentlemen,
If any of y'all know which parts are in the CC65-SE that are common
to the CD63 & CD67 we sure would appreciate it.
Feel free to lend a hand over here please as we are just drifting...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/281014-marantz-cc65-se.html
Knowing what we have would be a start.
Cheers,
Sync
If any of y'all know which parts are in the CC65-SE that are common
to the CD63 & CD67 we sure would appreciate it.
Feel free to lend a hand over here please as we are just drifting...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/281014-marantz-cc65-se.html
Knowing what we have would be a start.
Cheers,
Sync
Ray,
You used to have a link on your parts and schematic page
that listed a converter board for the voltage regulators.
Do you still have them?
Can you take a pic or two of them?
I think the guy who made them went away
and no one has them any longer.
I would be interested in them and perhaps
making a run of the boards or two if there
is any interested.
It would be definitely beneficial to anyone
changing from one Voltage Reg type to another one.
Cheers,
Sync
You used to have a link on your parts and schematic page
that listed a converter board for the voltage regulators.
Do you still have them?
Can you take a pic or two of them?
I think the guy who made them went away
and no one has them any longer.
I would be interested in them and perhaps
making a run of the boards or two if there
is any interested.
It would be definitely beneficial to anyone
changing from one Voltage Reg type to another one.
Cheers,
Sync
Can anyone tell me where the posts or links to the critical mass
where the majority of the mods are located?
I found them, then lost them and now can't find them again.
Cheers,
Sync
where the majority of the mods are located?
I found them, then lost them and now can't find them again.
Cheers,
Sync
Wow, this topic is enormous...
I had just resurrected a cd67se from the past, changing the laser mechanism. I was wondering if I could get this player to sound a bit better easily and relatively without cost.
1. Use a cheap but warm sounding dac with optical in, forget the mods (category 100-200$) maybe a Chinese one, of course will be used for other digital data also. It is planned.
2. Use the simplest mod, just for the new sound character as an option, independently of the dac.
2a. change the onboard op-amps with a direct replacement alternative through dip-8 socket) I could do this.
2b. Optional, a better clock oscillator to improve jitter -> details (a better but a cheap one), I am not sure if I can do this.
For my current setup, I can observe a boomy bass character in low frequencies and some loss of detail in the mid/hi bands. I do not like the sound it, it is a bit annoying without altering tones in the amp.
I am not familiar with electronics, only the very basics ... but I can use a solder gun...
Do you think by only changing op-amps, there could be a chance of getting rid of the extra overwhelming bass or maybe revive some lost details?
There are many suggestions here (confused!), but is there a good direct replacement without bias/oscillation extra mods, and without any other mod?
or just invest in the dac and forget the mess...
thanks
I had just resurrected a cd67se from the past, changing the laser mechanism. I was wondering if I could get this player to sound a bit better easily and relatively without cost.
1. Use a cheap but warm sounding dac with optical in, forget the mods (category 100-200$) maybe a Chinese one, of course will be used for other digital data also. It is planned.
2. Use the simplest mod, just for the new sound character as an option, independently of the dac.
2a. change the onboard op-amps with a direct replacement alternative through dip-8 socket) I could do this.
2b. Optional, a better clock oscillator to improve jitter -> details (a better but a cheap one), I am not sure if I can do this.
For my current setup, I can observe a boomy bass character in low frequencies and some loss of detail in the mid/hi bands. I do not like the sound it, it is a bit annoying without altering tones in the amp.
I am not familiar with electronics, only the very basics ... but I can use a solder gun...
Do you think by only changing op-amps, there could be a chance of getting rid of the extra overwhelming bass or maybe revive some lost details?
There are many suggestions here (confused!), but is there a good direct replacement without bias/oscillation extra mods, and without any other mod?
or just invest in the dac and forget the mess...
thanks
Hi Pentajazz,
It's very easy and cheap to get a better sound out of your resurrected CD67 - the boomy bass and lack of midrange detail are both symptoms of the poor standard opamps and the HDAM circuits. If you replace the opamps with LM4562's (in the DIP 8 package they are a direct replacement) you can then bypass the HDAM components and take a wire from the opamp side of links U216/U217 (remove the links) more or less straight to the RCA's - leave one of the 100 ohm resistors in series and the 100K resistor to ground but everything else can be removed. This will give you much better detail and no boom to the bass. All of the schematics can be found on Ray's audio site:
Ray's Audio Page
You will also need to remove the resistors R651-654 which provide power to the HDAM circuits. If the capacitors C655-658 are larger in value than C611-614 (I think they'll be 220uF rather than 100uF) then putting the larger caps on the opamp supplies will help the dynamics a bit.
It will look a lot clearer once you are looking at the circuit diagram, honest! but if you need more detail on component numbers etc. then just ask🙂
The next stage would be the low jitter clock - a cheap and very effective one is the Flea clock, available on the site above and very easy to fit (I have no commercial links to that site, just a happy customer and flea clock owner!) Doing this would give large improvements to clarity and detail.
After this you may find you're addicted to the sound and want to continue - it'll be way ahead of a cheap Chinese DAC.
It's very easy and cheap to get a better sound out of your resurrected CD67 - the boomy bass and lack of midrange detail are both symptoms of the poor standard opamps and the HDAM circuits. If you replace the opamps with LM4562's (in the DIP 8 package they are a direct replacement) you can then bypass the HDAM components and take a wire from the opamp side of links U216/U217 (remove the links) more or less straight to the RCA's - leave one of the 100 ohm resistors in series and the 100K resistor to ground but everything else can be removed. This will give you much better detail and no boom to the bass. All of the schematics can be found on Ray's audio site:
Ray's Audio Page
You will also need to remove the resistors R651-654 which provide power to the HDAM circuits. If the capacitors C655-658 are larger in value than C611-614 (I think they'll be 220uF rather than 100uF) then putting the larger caps on the opamp supplies will help the dynamics a bit.
It will look a lot clearer once you are looking at the circuit diagram, honest! but if you need more detail on component numbers etc. then just ask🙂
The next stage would be the low jitter clock - a cheap and very effective one is the Flea clock, available on the site above and very easy to fit (I have no commercial links to that site, just a happy customer and flea clock owner!) Doing this would give large improvements to clarity and detail.
After this you may find you're addicted to the sound and want to continue - it'll be way ahead of a cheap Chinese DAC.
Thanks Brakspear75 for your guidance, very useful info has been gathered in your post .
I will check those out and see what I can do...
I will check those out and see what I can do...
Hi, could anyone help me trouble shoot my CD63? I am getting error 2 and 10 and no light is visible from the laser. I replaced the laser and that didn't help, and the voltage on r136 is 5v either side (one of Ray's previous posts). Could anyone talk me through the power supply to the laser? I cannot figure it out from the schematics. Henry
Hi, could anyone help me trouble shoot my CD63? part II
Back again:
- I checked the regs at r122 and 123 for servo and they are 5v.
- the "laser drive on" output (pin 2 of servo) transiently goes to 5v when I push play.
- r127 and r128 are +20v and -20v
- I finished modding over 9 months so this error is out of the blue. The only thing that happened is my girlfriend put a dvd in cdp immediately before it stopped.
- in service mode P0:rev makes sled go out (no focus or spin); P1: slow focusing (no sled or spin); P02: fast focusing (no sled or spin); P03:sled and focus on (no spin). Shouldn't it spin in P02 and P03?
Help!
Back again:
- I checked the regs at r122 and 123 for servo and they are 5v.
- the "laser drive on" output (pin 2 of servo) transiently goes to 5v when I push play.
- r127 and r128 are +20v and -20v
- I finished modding over 9 months so this error is out of the blue. The only thing that happened is my girlfriend put a dvd in cdp immediately before it stopped.
- in service mode P0:rev makes sled go out (no focus or spin); P1: slow focusing (no sled or spin); P02: fast focusing (no sled or spin); P03:sled and focus on (no spin). Shouldn't it spin in P02 and P03?
Help!
Unhappy Hi, could anyone help me trouble shoot my CD63? part III
It looks like I need to check 1 and 7 on QM01 to see if the disk motor has power. See attached.
It looks like I need to check 1 and 7 on QM01 to see if the disk motor has power. See attached.
Have a close look at the spindle motor. I have had a similar experience with a new laser as recently as a few weeks ago. Sometimes, the disc on which the cd rests gets compressed against the motor body, and the friction prevents the motor from spinning the disc.
Using a small flat screwdriver, gently prying the disc upwards, should lift the plastic away from the motor body.
Failing that, you could have a dud laser.
Using a small flat screwdriver, gently prying the disc upwards, should lift the plastic away from the motor body.
Failing that, you could have a dud laser.
Thanks for the advice Nuryev, I will try this later in the week and report the results then. Henry
IIRC the replacement VAM12 has a different center spindle from the OEM CDM12, so replacing the whole part is not great but for one to take off only the laser on the metal rod and put it in original CDM12, if that may help in a slipping disc issue.
Hi, could anyone help me trouble shoot my CD63? part IV
Hi,
After checking a lot of pins, I have this to report: there is a problem at the servo opamp (Q105) pin that drives the laser. Pins 7 and 8 are at 0V instead of 2.5. Brakspear75 had the same issue (see#21041) and replaced Q105 so I'm thinking I'll do that. Could it be the servo that is blown (Q104)?
The voltage rail to the servo chips is running at 36V. I know the opamp chips can handle 40v, but do you think that could be a problem? Is there an easy way to get it down to ~24V short of putting in regs for each opamp?
Thanks!
Henry
Hi,
After checking a lot of pins, I have this to report: there is a problem at the servo opamp (Q105) pin that drives the laser. Pins 7 and 8 are at 0V instead of 2.5. Brakspear75 had the same issue (see#21041) and replaced Q105 so I'm thinking I'll do that. Could it be the servo that is blown (Q104)?
The voltage rail to the servo chips is running at 36V. I know the opamp chips can handle 40v, but do you think that could be a problem? Is there an easy way to get it down to ~24V short of putting in regs for each opamp?
Thanks!
Henry