Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

marantz 67 mods

Hi guys, iam trying to build the super raygulator and also having the same trouble as jf, has any one build one and can show a picture for easier guide?
Also i need help as after i install a clock(millenium audio) into marantz 67 iam getting what sounds like static or ghost signal noise everytime i turn the player on for the first few minutes then the noise disappear. 😕 😕 😕 Many thanks- Quan.
 
thanks Aquar,

I have read that OScons are best for digital decoupling, but the effect I hear may not be caps. If I compare to the 6000 it just seems more neutral where as the 67 is brighter, maybe even clearer, but it seems a little exagerated. I hate swapping caps, maybe I listen to the 6000 😉

Perhaps its the filter, I think I read somewhere it has a peak in the upper registers, maybe the discrete output will solve my issues, is it worth the effort I wonder?

BTW, the cd67 has 5X separate 5V power supplies, Rubycon ZL for 5v power supplies, oscons for digital decoupling, 12V decoupling is ZL, clock with finnesse shunt regulator , lm6172, mute realys, no output caps, dampening.

I have made quite a few improvements, but to be honest the best by far in the 6000 were the decoupling caps, opamps and clock.
 
Luke said:
Perhaps its the filter, I think I read somewhere it has a peak in the upper registers, maybe the discrete output will solve my issues, is it worth the effort I wonder?

Yeh I reckon that's part of your problem. Mine certainly doesn't sound bright and the output section is almost stock (apart from removed HDAM, new sockets and lower output resistor). So I'd suggest it's partly something elsewhere too. I do have some harshness remaining. We'll see if the discrete stage removes any of this shortly... Btw I use Black Gate STD for all the important decoupling, works a treat, very smooth.

Simon
 
Static noise CD67

Hi Quan.

Did you fit a separate supply for the clock?
If so check the grounding as I had the same problem with a CD63 which had a trichord clock and PSU fitted by someone else, the ground wire had broken off due to crap soldering 🙄

Cheers,
Mags.
 
Hi Simon,

I cant be assed getting inductors pcbs etc, would love to buy a kit for this discrete stage. Maybe if it works well for you it will inspire me🙂 BTW I did HDAM bypass too. Not sure I want to do the Blackgate thing, they seem unatural somehow but yes they are smooth, I think I prefer elna silmic, may get some from somewhere if I can find a supplier.

The other thing is I would like to try a modern player to mod, maybe another marantz for a change🙂

seeya arthur
 
Luke said:
Hi Simon,

I cant be assed getting inductors pcbs etc, would love to buy a kit for this discrete stage. Maybe if it works well for you it will inspire me🙂 BTW I did HDAM bypass too. Not sure I want to do the Blackgate thing, they seem unatural somehow but yes they are smooth, I think I prefer elna silmic, may get some from somewhere if I can find a supplier.

The other thing is I would like to try a modern player to mod, maybe another marantz for a change🙂

seeya arthur

Hi Arthur,

I know what you mean about being ar$ed! I've ordered parts from Farnell, was lucky enough to get a PCB from a kind and expert forum member 😉 and I still have to order parts from two more companies before I can finish it. And I still need someone (ahem, Brent) to drill the PCB holes for me! It's a mega-amount of hassle. But all you have to do (sorry, wrong side of the world) is hear Brent's player to know it's all worthwhile! Natural and full of clean, distortion-free energy beyond belief! I'm sure the discrete stage goes some way to creating this natural, uncoloured and unforced yet powerful presentation.

Yes Black Gates appear to be coloured in some way, but it's mostly a good type of colouration. They're certainly smooth and offer plenty of detail though. I wouldn't want them all the way through the playback chain ie. not in pre and power amps as well as CDP.

I'd like to try a modern player too... either the already very nice Arcam CD72t, as it can decode HDCDs (I have at least two 😉 ) and displays CD text.... or a Pioneer universal player. A cheapie one of these sounded very natural (if lacking impact) playing DSOTM on SACD 2 channel. Easier to listen to than my CD63, but without the mega-detail, scale, power and heavy bass weight of my CD63.

Although it's been suggested by cynical people that the CD layer was made worse intentionally to let the SACD layer shine...

Simon
 
Simon,

Good luck with your discrete stage, I look forward to your comments.

interesting you mention the cd72, It uses the Wolfson dac I believe. I have also considered building an spdif output like Jocko recomends on diyhifi and then maybe the twistedpair audio opus, its quite inexpensive and the kit has everything except for housing. It may be even worth buying another player to morph for the opus and its got blanced output which I plan on trying at some stage.

seeya Arthur
 
Luke said:
Simon,

Good luck with your discrete stage, I look forward to your comments.

interesting you mention the cd72, It uses the Wolfson dac I believe.

Thanks! Two people I know use the CD72 and one is my brother. It sounds very detailed, open and lively for the price. Surely the rest of his system helps but it's defo a nice place to start. I think a modded CD63 is more in line with the FMJ33 of course 🙂

Simon
 
Luke said:
Hi Simon,

I cant be assed getting inductors pcbs etc, would love to buy a kit for this discrete stage. Maybe if it works well for you it will inspire me🙂 BTW I did HDAM bypass too. Not sure I want to do the Blackgate thing, they seem unatural somehow but yes they are smooth, I think I prefer elna silmic, may get some from somewhere if I can find a supplier.

The other thing is I would like to try a modern player to mod, maybe another marantz for a change🙂

seeya arthur


Marantz already made the PCB for ya!

If you whip out the op-amp and connect the output pin of the 1st op-amp (pin1) to gnd, you have the symmetrical layout you need for the passive filtering components. Look at the schematic and you'll see what I mean. R-C-R // CR on -ve input as well as +ve input. The feedback R&C now grounded at O/P end. Insert resistors/inductors/caps as prescribed. Feed transistor section from where op-amp was - pin1 (gnd) pin2 (-ve input) pin3 (+ve input).

If you pull out the 2SK332 (CD63) or 2x2SK369 (CD67) you can insert your 2SK170 but you need to bend the source legs in the air to add your 820R resistors here.

If you compare the rest of Ray's schematic with the original, it seems easily realised by removing/replacing components and using jumpers. Depending on how you route the output transistor, you might want to leave the gate of the -ve input FET in the air or connected to some other unused track, otherwise you will have to cut the feedback track (no big deal).

Study what is there before you take everything out as some of the diodes can stay.

Ray did this himself on his CD57, but it looks just as easy on the 53/63.

No PCB required and you can put the nice shiny copper cans back on afterwards!

I will get around to doing this on my spare CD63 at some stage...
 
SimontY said:
Yes, just like that Glenn, easy!

:xeye:


But if you look at Ray's circuit and look at the HDAM, it's all there!
Yank out a few bits, replace others with wire, and you've got the circuit - just need to change a few values.

And the filter bit is there too, over by the op-amp.

An alternative is to use the HDAM as an op-amp (which it actually is and is good) instead of a buffer (which it sucks at like any op-amp). I did this in my 67. Although you have one active stage with feedback, you don't need an output cap. Depends which you think is the lesser evil.
 
SimontY said:
No doubt either is better than the original setup Glenn 🙂


Well I can't speak for Ray's circuit as I haven't tried it yet, but the other setup sounds much better than the stock player but much worse than my current set up, which is still burning in (see pic).

I like to be different.😀
 

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