Oh really Glenn.... interesting. Any pics of this mod? Didn't you say the Zapp filter is rather like Ray's circuit?
SimontY said:
Not yet, but I will!
It basically performs the differential to single-ended conversion without feedback (like Ray's) and uses shunt regulators (like Ray's Tentlab shunt-reg example). Comes with it's own 20VA toroid and PSU board though a challenge getting it all in a 67SE I can tell you.
Also, can be easily moved to other players later on if the DAC is differential voltage output (like Ray's) or current output also as it does I/V if you want (unlike Ray's).
It has DC servos so doesn't need output caps though. It looks busy but it has relays, shunt regs, servos etc but the signal path itself isn't busy.
You don't know what these things are like until you try them so I thought why not.
For floks still using opamps... AD8599 report
I've sent one to someone in order to give a report (far better system than me so he can hear more clearly the sound of that chip).
I first said I find this opamp to be more "involving" as said AVR, bass better than LM4562, but a bit too excited in highs.
He gave a more precise report : better details than the LM (!!), but moves the voices and highs more in front of the stage, too close. Said the highs hard to stand on the long term.
If this may help, so LM4562 for smoothing a system and AD8599 for pepping it 😉
I keep both and will check wich is the best for my music room when it's done. The last word is that they are close mates, it's just a diffrent taste.
For those at easy with french:
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29851057
I've sent one to someone in order to give a report (far better system than me so he can hear more clearly the sound of that chip).
I first said I find this opamp to be more "involving" as said AVR, bass better than LM4562, but a bit too excited in highs.
He gave a more precise report : better details than the LM (!!), but moves the voices and highs more in front of the stage, too close. Said the highs hard to stand on the long term.
If this may help, so LM4562 for smoothing a system and AD8599 for pepping it 😉
I keep both and will check wich is the best for my music room when it's done. The last word is that they are close mates, it's just a diffrent taste.
For those at easy with french:
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29851057
More good, valuable research. 🙂
I think with op-amps it is sometimes not about which is better, but which creates the synergy and matches the sound of your circuit and your system to your tastes.
My feeling with AD op-amps is that they favour a more punchy, foot-tapping sound which is ultimately more musically satisfying to me.
But I think it depends upon which aspects of the sound you are most sensitive to.
There's no substitute for trying as many as you can and making your own mind up! 🙂
I think with op-amps it is sometimes not about which is better, but which creates the synergy and matches the sound of your circuit and your system to your tastes.
My feeling with AD op-amps is that they favour a more punchy, foot-tapping sound which is ultimately more musically satisfying to me.
But I think it depends upon which aspects of the sound you are most sensitive to.
There's no substitute for trying as many as you can and making your own mind up! 🙂
Glenn,
thanks, I may try using the pcb as a discrete output. Whats involved in turning the hdam into an opamp, I like the idea of using the new filter in the existing board and using the hdam.
thanks, I may try using the pcb as a discrete output. Whats involved in turning the hdam into an opamp, I like the idea of using the new filter in the existing board and using the hdam.
Luke said:
I'll try to post some details when I've got time. If you cut the track between the output and one if the input pair (or dual-fet in CD63) then each end of that cut track becomes your output and inverting input (as in the CD6000).
TBH it was a lot of hassle getting the caps and resistors under the HDAM but not touching each other, the other solder pads or the bottom of the chassis. I think I might have a pic, and it would put you off instantly for sure. You need resistors and caps to ground from +ve input and more across the track you cut for -ve feedback.
I think it would be MUCH easier (and far neater) to use Ray's circuit on the existing PCB as that can all sit on the top.
Just wondering what solder i should buy as im pretty much out ??
THe antex silver solder i bought from maplins is rubbish compared to the old skool leaded solder i have now ran out of. Im looking for stuff that is quite thin and very easy to melt and work with.
i have an adjustable temp soldering iron from maplins and i use a 0.5mm tip.
TA
THe antex silver solder i bought from maplins is rubbish compared to the old skool leaded solder i have now ran out of. Im looking for stuff that is quite thin and very easy to melt and work with.
i have an adjustable temp soldering iron from maplins and i use a 0.5mm tip.
TA
adfinni said:
Just get some leaded stuff, so easy to use! I did my DIY interconnect with Tara Labs copper-content solder, and it sounds beautiful. I'm not sure what it costs though.
Simon
regulator
Hi Ray
Hi Guys,
I try to combine raygulator and sulzer = superregulator to get +,- 12V supply to new discrete.
The problem is:
In raygulator section I got 17V, yes expected.....but if I connect to sulzer the voltage drop to 15.4V, why???
In sulzer circuit , with or without raygulator (pre regs) I got 13.4V.
Help me please ?
regards
aquar
Hi Ray
Hi Guys,
I try to combine raygulator and sulzer = superregulator to get +,- 12V supply to new discrete.
The problem is:
In raygulator section I got 17V, yes expected.....but if I connect to sulzer the voltage drop to 15.4V, why???
In sulzer circuit , with or without raygulator (pre regs) I got 13.4V.
Help me please ?
regards
aquar
Attachments
Re: regulator
Hi.
A bit of a vague answer, I'm afraid, as I'm away from home at the moment and unable to get to my bits of paper.
Somewhere I have an article which describes this problem.
I think it has to do with ground loops. (Kelvin points ??)
All the ground points MUST be common otherwise there are problems with oscillation, poor regulation etc..
I also remember that it is better to reference the pre-regulator to the output of the Sultzer reg. effectively setting the input to (say) 5v above the output.
Andy
aquar said:
Hi.
A bit of a vague answer, I'm afraid, as I'm away from home at the moment and unable to get to my bits of paper.
Somewhere I have an article which describes this problem.
I think it has to do with ground loops. (Kelvin points ??)
All the ground points MUST be common otherwise there are problems with oscillation, poor regulation etc..
I also remember that it is better to reference the pre-regulator to the output of the Sultzer reg. effectively setting the input to (say) 5v above the output.
Andy
I think the problem is the capcitance multiplier befor eteh LM317.
As you try to draw more load current then the base current increase through R1 means the voltage across teh BC547 increase. I think when you have your sulzer reg running, the LM317 is dropping-out (insufficient voltage hedroom)to operate. If this is the case (less than 3.0v across the LM317) then consider removing the cap multiplier, or maybe use a darlington transistor here instead.
Measure the voltages before the BC547 and before the LM317 to check this... what is +Vin , when fully loaded?
Anybody know a good UK source for Black Gates?
Hifi Collective don't have what I want.
I ordered from Audiocom who claimed to have what I want, but in over a week my order has not progressed at all and they do not respond to emails despite taking my money. Rubbish company.
Assuming I can get my dosh back, where else can I get them?
I need BG Nx 220uF/6.3V x2 and BG N 10uF/50V x2.
Glenn
Hifi Collective don't have what I want.
I ordered from Audiocom who claimed to have what I want, but in over a week my order has not progressed at all and they do not respond to emails despite taking my money. Rubbish company.
Assuming I can get my dosh back, where else can I get them?
I need BG Nx 220uF/6.3V x2 and BG N 10uF/50V x2.
Glenn
Glenn2 said:
Hi Glenn.
I have looked for sources before and found them a little thin on the ground.
I have not used them before, but http://www.acoustic-dimension.com/ sell them. Prices are in Euro though.
I originally bought mine from AudioNoteUK but it looks as if they've stopped supplying🙁
Lee.
Glenn2 said:
I had a similar problem with Audiocon myself recently. I ordered some iron dust core inductors for my speakers and they took my money but didn't send me anything. They had e-mails and ignored them and the phone was normally engaged when I rang. Eventually I got hold of them and they said the coils shouldn't have been on the website! Then he said they might just have some... he checked and they did. Ok, so I'll still get them... weeks went by and still nothing. Another phone call and eventually they arrived, a good quality Intertechnik item from the company with the worst customer service around.
Anything you can buy from Hificollective, do. They're busy too but I think the bloke there actually cares. Ask and they could put your BGs on their next order. Might take ages of course but what else are you gonna do??
I'm contemplating ordering a £200 custom made power transformer from them so they'd better be good!!
Simon
Ye i had to wait 2 months for audiocom to send my some oscons and BGs. Rang em up and they said they were in the middle of a refit. Eventually got them, and my bg's had been upgraded to the best type of BG's, which was nice.
Looking at BG's from hi-fi collective atm, but they don't have the NX's i need for my new headphone amp, plus they are expensive. Im looking at buying from parts connection in the US as their BG's seem to be 1/2 the price. bloody rip off england as ever.
O and any more advice on what solder to get, as i don't have a clue. Cheers for the advice simon but im not willing to spend £££ on solder 😀
Looking at BG's from hi-fi collective atm, but they don't have the NX's i need for my new headphone amp, plus they are expensive. Im looking at buying from parts connection in the US as their BG's seem to be 1/2 the price. bloody rip off england as ever.
O and any more advice on what solder to get, as i don't have a clue. Cheers for the advice simon but im not willing to spend £££ on solder 😀
BG's
Hi Adfinni,
Mayby the Dutch "De Groef audio" has what you need, i buy them there always and never problems.
http://www.degroefaudio.nl/dg_componenten.php
Succes,
Greetings
Peter
Hi Adfinni,
Mayby the Dutch "De Groef audio" has what you need, i buy them there always and never problems.
http://www.degroefaudio.nl/dg_componenten.php
Succes,
Greetings
Peter
Luke said:Dont do it Simon
Oh whyever not? I think an amp with an oversized frame transformer will sound superb. Do you think it's unwise?
Sorry for OT.
Simon
Hi there!
Sunday's question:
will a 317 be an improvment in place of the 7805 in my CDP? It's a step before go for separate 5V rails...
If yes, what may be the values to match the Ray's schematic of his now famous Raygulators?
http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/ra.vdsteen/pdfs/LM317_337_regs.pdf
Thanks guys!
Sunday's question:
will a 317 be an improvment in place of the 7805 in my CDP? It's a step before go for separate 5V rails...
If yes, what may be the values to match the Ray's schematic of his now famous Raygulators?
http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/ra.vdsteen/pdfs/LM317_337_regs.pdf
Thanks guys!