LuFo Amp - 39w SE Class A from 28v Rail

Founder of XSA-Labs
Joined 2012
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Yes, it can be done with just hot air but be careful not to melt the plastic holder for the 3 header pins. With the hotplate to do the majority of the preheating, only a minimal hot air from the top is needed.

@Zaman, thanks! Those are my favorite precision cutters and needle nose pliers by Lindstrom. The tweezers are same Techni-Tool that I have had for 20 years.
 
Hi X.

I was toasting a panini last evening using our Breville griddle, like this;

Breville Sandwich/Panini Press and Toastie Maker, Stainless Steel [VST025] : Amazon.co.uk: Home & Kitchen

and while I was waiting I got to wondering about soldering the LU1014Ds to the adaptor boards with it so I measured the temperature of the hotplate - about 220°C

I think that's hot enough to get the job done, maybe with a little additional blast from my hot air station to get them over the line - it's nice that you can pre-heat the hotplate - any thoughts?

I have some Quik Chip solder paste (220°C melting point) on order so I guess I'll have to try assembling a couple of the adaptor boards using a couple of my Chinese-sourced LU1014Ds.

I'm thinking it might also serve to solder conventional PCBs with smd parts?
 
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Joined 2014
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Hi NB,

Yup, the hotplate/hot air method is how X and I get all our SMD work completed. It works very well. Get your hotplate/pan up to about 130-135°C with the loaded pcb and hit it with your hot air pencil from the top. Since the pcb and parts are already pre-heated the hot air makes the solder flow quickly. It will take some practice with the amount of paste to use (less is better) and how to move the hot air pencil. ;)

Larger components with plastic like smd electrolytic capacitors, relays and headers I will still use a fine tip iron so not to melt the plastic with the hotplate/air method.
 
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I wasn't able to do it with a heatgun alone, I used a steel plate on top of a camping stove then used the air to finish off as Vunce and X have indicated. I have seen integrated stations ( not expensive ) that heat the board and have air for smd - never thought I needed one but hindsight is 20/20 ..dB
 
I wasn't able to do it with a heatgun alone, I used a steel plate on top of a camping stove then used the air to finish off as Vunce and X have indicated. I have seen integrated stations ( not expensive ) that heat the board and have air for smd - never thought I needed one but hindsight is 20/20 ..dB

Could this plate be useful?

https://www.amazon.com/Remover-Heating-Soldering-Welding-Station/dp/B07W1ZZH8T/ref=sr_1_53?crid=Q06AIU4VS0C3&dchild=1&keywords=smd+desoldering+station&qid=1629137532&sprefix=smd+desolder%2Caps%2C282&sr=8-53
 
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Founder of XSA-Labs
Joined 2012
Paid Member
Jwjarch’s LuFo Lite is working out well on first verification build.
975889d1629351397-lufo-lite-1-transistor-se-class-headphone-amp-1e4a7566-0929-4a39-93f5-e10570fada7e-jpeg


More details here:
LuFo Lite - a 1 Transistor SE Class A Headphone Amp