Check out UK company Rob -
Rubber Idler Jockey wheels - gettheneedle.co.uk
Motor mounts should be firm -not too soft to allow for the correct pressure to be applied to the internal rim of the table .
Mounts can be made up with the CORRECT type of rubber -- I have done it .
Rubber Idler Jockey wheels - gettheneedle.co.uk
Motor mounts should be firm -not too soft to allow for the correct pressure to be applied to the internal rim of the table .
Mounts can be made up with the CORRECT type of rubber -- I have done it .
Last edited:
It's hard to tell from a photograph, but the rubber on the idler wheel and the rubber motor bushes does not appear to be in a bad condition.
Is the rubber hardened and showing signs of disintegration (splits etc.)?
Check that the idler wheel (intermediate wheel) runs in the centre of the correct motor pulley step without rubbing on the adjacent step.
There's an idler wheel height adjusting blade situated below the idler wheel mount.
Is the rubber hardened and showing signs of disintegration (splits etc.)?
Check that the idler wheel (intermediate wheel) runs in the centre of the correct motor pulley step without rubbing on the adjacent step.
There's an idler wheel height adjusting blade situated below the idler wheel mount.
The only place I get those parts (idler, motor mounts, etc.) is from Gary Stork at Voice Of Music, V-M Audio Enthusiasts here in the states.
He's always been great with me, and has plenty of fresh stock, highly recommended.
Thanks all, I'll take a look at what I have, and see what is needed. Or what I can get away with .
I'm in the UK, and the idler drive wheel doesn't seem to be available from the site here, but is in the States - 2 way postage could be a bit though.
Time for some head scratching - purse and time, versus "will this be good enough". Ho hum.
I'm in the UK, and the idler drive wheel doesn't seem to be available from the site here, but is in the States - 2 way postage could be a bit though.
Time for some head scratching - purse and time, versus "will this be good enough". Ho hum.
Correct me if I'm wrong, Rob, but you've not provided feedback as to whether you have carried out the necessary lubrication regime. Efficiency will certainly be reduced if lubrication is insufficient.
Light oil (sewing machine oil) is required to lubricate motor, idler wheel and main platter bearing. Have you checked the idler wheel height is correct as I suggested?
You also haven't commented further on the physical condition of the idler wheel rubber, and that needs clarification.
I recently renovated a Garrard SP25 Mk2. Its idler wheel is visually in the same condition as the one in your photograph, and it works perfectly.
The most cost effective way of obtaining spare parts can be to look on auction for a similar Garrard record deck being sold for 'parts or repair'. This often works out cheaper than buying the individual component required.
Light oil (sewing machine oil) is required to lubricate motor, idler wheel and main platter bearing. Have you checked the idler wheel height is correct as I suggested?
You also haven't commented further on the physical condition of the idler wheel rubber, and that needs clarification.
I recently renovated a Garrard SP25 Mk2. Its idler wheel is visually in the same condition as the one in your photograph, and it works perfectly.
The most cost effective way of obtaining spare parts can be to look on auction for a similar Garrard record deck being sold for 'parts or repair'. This often works out cheaper than buying the individual component required.
I doubt that the same somewhat critical specifications of idler tire rubber can be "made yourself".
It may look like a simple tire on a hub, but the driving surface needs to be absolutely centered/perfect with relation to the center shaft, or else wow/unstable speed will result.
The re-manufactured idlers that Gary Stork sells are professionally ground and balanced to provide the utmost consentricity.
And the cost outlay for such parts is quite reasonable as well - it's only a "one time" investment, so being cheap isn't a smart option here.
I always say - if a person complains about the cost of something, perhaps they shouldn't bother with the project at all.
In response to your last sentence what you don't realise living in the USA is that the UK has very large import duties a subject brought up many times on the UK consumer help website I was a regular on .
Some item were several times the price of the US import .
And isn't that a typical "middle class " statement or as they say in the States "kicking out the little guy " somebodies vision of audio delight shouldn't rely on how much money or shares they have in JP Morgan Chase or which side of the tracks they live on .
Some item were several times the price of the US import .
And isn't that a typical "middle class " statement or as they say in the States "kicking out the little guy " somebodies vision of audio delight shouldn't rely on how much money or shares they have in JP Morgan Chase or which side of the tracks they live on .
Hi,
The idler rubber looks to be in fairly good condition (along with the motor support rubbers), and it is centred very nicely on the motor speed shaft for each speed. I've lubricated most things (probably not always with the correct lubricant, or amount), and after roughening/cleaning the rubber idler and cleaning the inside of the platter I once more have what seems like good drive. I should have done this again before adding another post.
I feel I'm getting near to finishing this project, but think some of the automated actions might not be as they should. I'll report back with full details on this when I have more "garage time" as I'm very busy for the next few days.
So far (with the help of this forum, and members) I've fixed the loud buzz from the amplifier by replacing all the electrolytic capacitors, and rectifier. Then freeing up the seized mechanicals, and cleaning/lubricating them, and have purchased a new stylus, that I shall fit once I'm sure it's working correct mechanically and given it a final clean.
A lot of timer and effort has been spent, but I need to give one last push to be sure it's all working correctly and show it of to my friends.
Thanks, Rob
The idler rubber looks to be in fairly good condition (along with the motor support rubbers), and it is centred very nicely on the motor speed shaft for each speed. I've lubricated most things (probably not always with the correct lubricant, or amount), and after roughening/cleaning the rubber idler and cleaning the inside of the platter I once more have what seems like good drive. I should have done this again before adding another post.
I feel I'm getting near to finishing this project, but think some of the automated actions might not be as they should. I'll report back with full details on this when I have more "garage time" as I'm very busy for the next few days.
So far (with the help of this forum, and members) I've fixed the loud buzz from the amplifier by replacing all the electrolytic capacitors, and rectifier. Then freeing up the seized mechanicals, and cleaning/lubricating them, and have purchased a new stylus, that I shall fit once I'm sure it's working correct mechanically and given it a final clean.
A lot of timer and effort has been spent, but I need to give one last push to be sure it's all working correctly and show it of to my friends.
Thanks, Rob
How would you like to be me..... 45 years of restoring/repairing/troubleshooting other people's stuff?
Day after day..... week after week....
Consider your "one time" job a blessing.
Managed to grab some time to play with this record player again tonight, but out of time now.
I think when the arm gets onto the run off track it should pick up, and return to the home position, then turn the motor off. It doesn't seem to be turning the motor off though. You can sense it's trying to, as the Off/Manual/Auto lever does a little jiggle, when I think it wants to turn itself off.
I'm not going to get any decent amount of time now until Saturday morning (UK time) to look at it again, and compare the mechanicals to the photos I took before working on them, so will post some more up to date photos once I've had a good look at it. There is one bit that seems to wiggle around a lot and is just held by a spring in place, as far as I can tell - perhaps this is the cause?
I'll be back on line Saturday morning.
Thanks, Rob
I think when the arm gets onto the run off track it should pick up, and return to the home position, then turn the motor off. It doesn't seem to be turning the motor off though. You can sense it's trying to, as the Off/Manual/Auto lever does a little jiggle, when I think it wants to turn itself off.
I'm not going to get any decent amount of time now until Saturday morning (UK time) to look at it again, and compare the mechanicals to the photos I took before working on them, so will post some more up to date photos once I've had a good look at it. There is one bit that seems to wiggle around a lot and is just held by a spring in place, as far as I can tell - perhaps this is the cause?
I'll be back on line Saturday morning.
Thanks, Rob
The switch off depends on the kinetic energy of the freely spinning platter alone, since at this point in the cycle the idler wheel drive is disengaged. If the main platter bearing is not properly cleaned and lubricated (there must be no grease) then the platter will lose kinetic energy overcoming the bearing friction, leaving insufficient energy to switch the motor off.
If it doesn't switch off at 33rpm, then it may do so at 45 or 78 rpm when the platter will have more energy. Try this and get back.
If it doesn't switch off at 33rpm, then it may do so at 45 or 78 rpm when the platter will have more energy. Try this and get back.
If you've gotten the Service Manual for those Garrards, they usually include a troubleshooting list concerning particular issues, along with a section of adjustment procedures.
These troubleshooting topics are for "at the time" problems, but can certainly relate to current "aged" models.
However, one must consider that "back then" there weren't considerations for dried-up, siezed lubricants/greases that are today a part of malfunctioning machines.
Without a Service Manual, you'd be simply wasting time and energy trying to figure out issues.
These troubleshooting topics are for "at the time" problems, but can certainly relate to current "aged" models.
However, one must consider that "back then" there weren't considerations for dried-up, siezed lubricants/greases that are today a part of malfunctioning machines.
Without a Service Manual, you'd be simply wasting time and energy trying to figure out issues.
Galu, in order for the machine to switch off, it has to be engaging the drive motor, because then after the linkage is activated to turn off, only then will the idler disengage.
And for reliable, smooth platter rotation, the bearing race should be filled with Super Lube grease, along with a smear of it on the spindle shaft, as it is on my 3000.
The platter on my 3000 continues to spin for about a minute after the linkage/switch has shut down the machine.
Check out this video on how to lubricate a Garrard 3000, Rob: HMV Stereomaster 2400 pt1 - Garrard 3000 turntable servicing - YouTube
So, the following is not the case?
Just after the moment when the idler wheel has begun moving away from the platter rim, we rely on the stored kinetic energy in the platter to finish the cycle and switch off the motor.
The momentum of the rotating platter must then drive the gear wheel to the detent/neutral position where the motor shuts off.
Last edited:
Galu, that video is missing some critical parts of the lubrication process.
Plus, where are the guy's tools?
Using fingers to pry off clips?
How unprofessional and sloppy!
Another video on there is yet another guy with a 3000 who doesn't know crap about the proper way to service the machine.
I have to just laugh and shake my head at those morons sharing their crude tactics.
Because it certainly isn't worth watching.
Better to go with the Service Manual - because it's the best advice, not youtube.
Plus, where are the guy's tools?
Using fingers to pry off clips?
How unprofessional and sloppy!
Another video on there is yet another guy with a 3000 who doesn't know crap about the proper way to service the machine.
I have to just laugh and shake my head at those morons sharing their crude tactics.
Because it certainly isn't worth watching.
Better to go with the Service Manual - because it's the best advice, not youtube.
Trust me.
I've serviced just about every model of Garrard over the decades, successfully.
Except for the 301/401 models.
It is certainly the case that, for other Garrard turntables of this type, the turntable spindle is of the oil retaining type and should only be lubricated using light oil.
Since you have the 3000 service manual, wiseold, perhaps you can confirm that it differs from the others in that regard.
Since you have the 3000 service manual, wiseold, perhaps you can confirm that it differs from the others in that regard.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.