Full parts list is available on vinyl engine showing the exploded view both on the top and then below .
While obviously not repaired as many record decks as WOT very few had a faulty switch most it was a case of worn levers not actuating switches or other operations .
I take it we are talking of part =76 with associated part=77 ?--called Beneath Unit Plate in exploded view
If parts were not available I made them up--fabricated them out of steel .
Scroll down to --Automatic switch off for a comprehensive reading of how it works , this shouldn't be a big problem.
While obviously not repaired as many record decks as WOT very few had a faulty switch most it was a case of worn levers not actuating switches or other operations .
I take it we are talking of part =76 with associated part=77 ?--called Beneath Unit Plate in exploded view
If parts were not available I made them up--fabricated them out of steel .
Scroll down to --Automatic switch off for a comprehensive reading of how it works , this shouldn't be a big problem.
I am aware of the "should only be" regarding lubrications of record changers/turntables.
And with that I've no problem with others following the recommendations mentioned in Service Manuals at all.
However, since those manuals are dated well prior to modern times, and after servicing throusands of them, mostly over the last 30 years, I've found modern lubricants that have excelled as replacements for those old style oils and greases.
So I settled on a few lubricants that gave me the results that I believe will give these devices the finest operation and reliability they deserve.
Super Lube with PTFE (teflon) grease, and Zoom Spout Turbine Oil are the ones I mostly use with record changers.
The oil is great for the motor bearings and light enough for pivoting points.
The grease is light as well, and slippery as all heck, and doesn't run, drip, or become dry or dirty over time, and in my experience is excellent on the platter bearings and shaft, eliminating any play resulting in rumble and grinding of metal-to-metal of those parts, among others.
It beautifully quiets down the rotating platters for better performance, yet doesn't cause any of that "drag" that typical greases do.
Used in the cam gear track, it also makes the roller slide better and permits the detent to lock easily in its neutral position.
Applying it to other sliding assemblies works miracles too.
And my own 3000, 20 years since I overhauled it with these lubes, still runs like a clock.
I used it with Miracords, Duals, many other brands with the same great results.
And extremely vintage machines going back to the 1940's are brought back to life better than new.
So why should I use anything else? - after testing years of other lubes?
My huge amount of customers can attest to my work, some being very picky customers.
And I'm picky as well - I want things to last, work well, and not be bothered with having to repeat the process of "relubing" these mostly complicated mechanisms.
As I said, I've no problems with others doing things differently, I just want to put out there my long-term experiences of working in the shop on hoardes of customer/personal equipment over the decades.
Correct Galu most of them were bent with long term use or worn and the grease used had dried up leaving a film that was inclined to cause the arm action to stick .
Your also right on the oil situation which should be fine in the bearing.
Sometimes I had to replace the return spring as it had lost its tension .
Automatic switch off-
Says it all but it refers to each part number referencing the exploded view parts but scrolling further down it actually mentions this fault in the faults section and the arm I quoted says it could be "stiff " and the lever tail must be square ( 90 degrees ) with the unit plate ( it could be bent ) .
Or "excessive friction on the control lever" =66--needing greased that operates switch lever =72
Or record overarm spindle =3 not free --IE- drops under its own weight.
Again clean and oil.
Your also right on the oil situation which should be fine in the bearing.
Sometimes I had to replace the return spring as it had lost its tension .
Automatic switch off-
Says it all but it refers to each part number referencing the exploded view parts but scrolling further down it actually mentions this fault in the faults section and the arm I quoted says it could be "stiff " and the lever tail must be square ( 90 degrees ) with the unit plate ( it could be bent ) .
Or "excessive friction on the control lever" =66--needing greased that operates switch lever =72
Or record overarm spindle =3 not free --IE- drops under its own weight.
Again clean and oil.
Procuring the manual is mandatory.
The AT6/50/60 series also applies to the 1000/2000/3000 models.
And in order to achieve the best results, a full-on proper servicing/lubing/adjustment is without question.
Doing a "partial" job, and being afraid to dissassemble the unit to perform this job will usually result in poor reliability and operation.
Listen, I thought I could get away with a half-azzed "quickie" fix decades ago, but it's mandatory, not an option, if you want things done right.
The AT6/50/60 series also applies to the 1000/2000/3000 models.
And in order to achieve the best results, a full-on proper servicing/lubing/adjustment is without question.
Doing a "partial" job, and being afraid to dissassemble the unit to perform this job will usually result in poor reliability and operation.
Listen, I thought I could get away with a half-azzed "quickie" fix decades ago, but it's mandatory, not an option, if you want things done right.
I'm going to have a good look at it in a moment, and try and work out what is going on.
I will post my findings and any pictures later today.
I feel like there's some lever that needs to push the Manual lever to the off position, but it's not in the correct position to do this - just my feeling sop far.
Rob
I will post my findings and any pictures later today.
I feel like there's some lever that needs to push the Manual lever to the off position, but it's not in the correct position to do this - just my feeling sop far.
Rob
I've got it to automatically put it to the "Off" position now, once it's back on the support.
I eventually worked out what was trying to push what to release it, then gave it a little tweak (bend) to make it work.
The bit between the jaws of my adjustable wrench is what I adjusted.
I've also adjusted the height of the arm when it's lifted off its support, and increased the stylus pressure (turned the knurled nut at the rear of the tonearm) to stop the needle skating across the record when its put on. Its also had the new stylus fitted.
I'll play it for a while before I take it out to show anyone.
Thanks for all your help, Rob
I eventually worked out what was trying to push what to release it, then gave it a little tweak (bend) to make it work.
The bit between the jaws of my adjustable wrench is what I adjusted.
I've also adjusted the height of the arm when it's lifted off its support, and increased the stylus pressure (turned the knurled nut at the rear of the tonearm) to stop the needle skating across the record when its put on. Its also had the new stylus fitted.
I'll play it for a while before I take it out to show anyone.
Thanks for all your help, Rob
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