It is a very nice chassis. I have only had one problem with it. The recess for the I/R remote sensor is a very tight fit. It is hard to align the sensor, and the harness has to be bent sharply coming out off the sensor. This seems to have caused problem with the remote on my unit. It would double or triple count steps or lock up the remote action. I don't know if it was due to misalignment or the bend in the harness. I currently have the sensor sticking out through a small gap in the top cover with the harness straight, and it works fine. In my copious free time I plan to take the front plate off and put it in the mill to chamfer the back of the hole for the sensor and enlarge the slot of the harness.
You can go in from the back with a 90° countersink and turn the straight hole into a conical hole leaving the small hole on the outside of the front plate. I would recommend doing it in a drill press or preferably a mill so you have better depth control. That basically makes a pinhole camera and the alignment is much easier.
Great info.. Thanks Argos! Was your build a the SE or Balanced version? Wondering if there are "Franks Muses" versions of each chassis? Had considered SE initially, but leaning towards balanced now..
Yes. 🙂
Edited to add - Sorry, missed the pics. I can't believe I can't find a pic with 'full frontal', but here's a shot of one channel of the SMD IP with Frank's Muses and a top down shot of a build in the "real" chassis.
Cheers,
Patrick
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Well, I have the majority of the supplies for my Iron Pre Balanced project. Got the Modushop version for @frankwilker 's Muse solution. The chassis is really well done! Thanks @Gianluca ! Looks fantastic and that was really quick!
Question for those who have completed the Wilker/Modushop version.. How did you go about assembling the display screen in the front panel? Have the hole cut for it, and plexi from Gianluca, but the display seems to be much larger than the hole that is cut? Not visualizing how it is supposed to go together very well.. If anyone has suggestions/photos that would be great!
Cheers,
John
Question for those who have completed the Wilker/Modushop version.. How did you go about assembling the display screen in the front panel? Have the hole cut for it, and plexi from Gianluca, but the display seems to be much larger than the hole that is cut? Not visualizing how it is supposed to go together very well.. If anyone has suggestions/photos that would be great!
Cheers,
John
Here are a couple of pictures. I recall using a thin bead of clear silicon glue, on the edges, and also using (kapton?) tape as well. I can't remember if I used the Lexan that came with the chassis or if that is just the screen itself. It was a couple years ago. Let me know if you need anything else.
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@Chrisr3521,
Hoped someone much more knowledgeable would respond to your questions.. I have received the chassis from Modushop, as well as Frank's boards and display. I haven't attatched the display yet.. That said, to answer your questions "Yes" Gianluca did supply the perspex window for my chassis. You'll have to order the chassis "bit by bit" for Franks solution as there isn't a "one stop shop" order for that config. Part of that order was the perspex window. I'll attach a screen shot of all that was required. I ordered the balanced chassis. As far as screwing the display to the chassis, or the perspex.. I don't think it's a great idea. The perspex is approx 3mm and likely thick enough, however the holes in the corners of the display boards are very small. I"d be more concerned about goofing that procedure up vs using silicone and kapton tape. Frank's recommended procedure was to use a dot of hot glue in the corner of the display board somewhere to hold it in the right spot.. Then use silicone to fix it permanently.
Hope this is helpful!
-John
Hoped someone much more knowledgeable would respond to your questions.. I have received the chassis from Modushop, as well as Frank's boards and display. I haven't attatched the display yet.. That said, to answer your questions "Yes" Gianluca did supply the perspex window for my chassis. You'll have to order the chassis "bit by bit" for Franks solution as there isn't a "one stop shop" order for that config. Part of that order was the perspex window. I'll attach a screen shot of all that was required. I ordered the balanced chassis. As far as screwing the display to the chassis, or the perspex.. I don't think it's a great idea. The perspex is approx 3mm and likely thick enough, however the holes in the corners of the display boards are very small. I"d be more concerned about goofing that procedure up vs using silicone and kapton tape. Frank's recommended procedure was to use a dot of hot glue in the corner of the display board somewhere to hold it in the right spot.. Then use silicone to fix it permanently.
Hope this is helpful!
-John
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