Logic Solutions for Iron Pre Kits

The Muses solution is always dispatched fully functional. It is then configured and tested according to the buyer's specifications.
Alan's question is aimed at the solder jumper on the Muses board. This addresses the chips (address 00 and 01) and thus the respective channels.
In the balanced version, the solder jumper of the two Muses boards should therefore be soldered differently. This is just a hint that does not require any action on the part of the DIYer.
 
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Ordered on Friday, delivered across the water on Wednesday, and partially assembled this evening. My compliments to Gianluca. One Wilker mod for balanced iron pre, and a set of Pearl3 chassis because it would have been a shame not to combine the shipping. Now to layout all the internal bits and bobs and see what I am short. (I already know I'm out of nice rubber feet for the two Pearl chassis and a few xlr sockets)


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Ordered on Friday, delivered across the water on Wednesday, and partially assembled this evening. My compliments to Gianluca. One Wilker mod for balanced iron pre, and a set of Pearl3 chassis because it would have been a shame not to combine the shipping. Now to layout all the internal bits and bobs and see what I am short. (I already know I'm out of nice rubber feet for the two Pearl chassis and a few xlr sockets)


View attachment 1264722
They all look good, glad you like them!
 
Ordered on Friday, delivered across the water on Wednesday, and partially assembled this evening. My compliments to Gianluca. One Wilker mod for balanced iron pre, and a set of Pearl3 chassis because it would have been a shame not to combine the shipping. Now to layout all the internal bits and bobs and see what I am short. (I already know I'm out of nice rubber feet for the two Pearl chassis and a few xlr sockets)


View attachment 1264722
Nice looking, @ARGOS! Are you using the twister selector board or are you running input selection from Frank Wilker's controller?
 
This thread has been quiet for quite some time! I'm considering an Iron Pre with Muses kit from Frank. There was a good bit of conversation about Modushop making a custom chasis, or at least a face plate for this.. I only saw one example above. Was there any more movement on that or options? Thanks for any updated info!
 
Ok.. Great! Thanks fellas.. Follow-up question.. In the picture above I'm assuming the hole on the right side of the face plate is for manual volume adjustment, and smaller hole up and to the right of the display is for IR? So no manual ON/OFF, is that right?
 
Ok.. Great! Thanks fellas.. Follow-up question.. In the picture above I'm assuming the hole on the right side of the face plate is for manual volume adjustment, and smaller hole up and to the right of the display is for IR? So no manual ON/OFF, is that right?
If that's the chassis for Frank's solution, the knob on the right is more of a "universal" knob. Volume / input switching / programming etc.

The small hole to the right, yes, that is for the remote IR sensor.

Manual on / off is on the back, and you also have remote "standby", which is wonderful.
 
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If that's the chassis for Frank's solution, the knob on the right is more of a "universal" knob. Volume / input switching / programming etc.

The small hole to the right, yes, that is for the remote IR sensor.

Manual on / off is on the back, and you also have remote "standby", which is wonderful.
Ok.. awesome.. Thanks! Remote standby sounds great.. Have you completed this version of the Iron Pre? Appreciate the guidance.

-John
 
You can try contacting Gianluca at Modushop and ask for one like that (with front panel switch hole)…he is very accommodating and if it’s possible I’m sure he will help.

IAIMH and I both ordered custom chassis for our Iron Pumpkin builds.

P.S. I ordered my Balanced Iron Pre chassis before they had worked out the kinks for Frank’s solution. So I have no choice but to modify it myself. Not a big deal as I have a mini mill and lathe.
 
P.S. I use Frank's solution and I love it. However, I am thinking of widening the front panel hole for the IR receiver because it won't pick up anything at an angle unless you are close to it. My equipment rack is on the left wall about 12 feet away from and at a 90 angle to the listening position, and the very narrow hole doesn't work at that position.

Just something to think about before gluing the receiver in.