gabanyayaya said:
You say charger? do you mean a battery charger if so then no, as they are usually not very clean. You need a wall wart of 12vdc preferably regulated and linear that has >200mA to 500mA current output.
It needs not to be regulated if you have a good 5vdc regulator circuit after it, it can even be 9vdc wall wart so long as your 5v regulator doesn't drop out.
Cheers George
measure the output voltage on open circuit load.
Is it AC or DC what is the voltage?
Add a load across it. 100r power resistor would do.
Now measure the voltage.
The resistor will heat up pretty quickly, so don't take too long.
Is it AC or DC what is the voltage?
Add a load across it. 100r power resistor would do.
Now measure the voltage.
The resistor will heat up pretty quickly, so don't take too long.
georgehifi said:
George,
here there's many wall wart adapter for supplying DC 12v to 9v either for charging electronics devices or just for supplying any appliances but mostly comes from cheap transformer type.
can you show me example the one that you said to be regulated/liner type...? Ebay would be ok...thanks
gabanyayaya said:
This is a Linear 12vdc regulated, it's the one I suggest for my US customers as it is 110v. You need to source a 240v for Malaysia.
https://www.rpelectronics.com/Defau...&Detail=/English/Content/Items/RP-1240R-P.asp
Linear 12vdc regulated are getting harder to source, everyones going cheaper to make switch modes and you can see the difference in noise on the output with a scope between the two on the Lightspeed Attenuator, whether you can hear it, is up to the individual.
Cheers George
I have several of these if anyone wants some.. Just pay shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Lot-of-15-CISCO...7a855e5db&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50
universal voltage in, regulated 48VDC out.
A simple 18 volt and then 5 volt reg would give you a VERY stable power supply.
Again, just pay shipping. I have around 30-50 that I just can't bear to throw in the garbage.
EDIT: I just used the link for the picture.. I am NOT in way affiliated with that seller on ebay... They just usually have these on ebay that reference.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Lot-of-15-CISCO...7a855e5db&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50
universal voltage in, regulated 48VDC out.
A simple 18 volt and then 5 volt reg would give you a VERY stable power supply.
Again, just pay shipping. I have around 30-50 that I just can't bear to throw in the garbage.
EDIT: I just used the link for the picture.. I am NOT in way affiliated with that seller on ebay... They just usually have these on ebay that reference.
georgehifi said:
Thank you George,
I found this one...
AC / DC adaptor regulated output 3 - 12V 300mA 100-240V
From what I see it, it's correct....is it George ???
gabanyayaya said:
Not really, it's a switch mode because it has a mains input that can work from 100v-240v
So is the one Troy has for sale.
Cheers george
Lightspeed remote control
Hi Marc,
All the boards work electrically. The problem with the transmitter board was caused by the manufacturer trimming the board to the wrong size to fit the recommended extruded aluminium case. They have now provided replacements trimmed more accurately. As most of you have ordered one or more full sets of boards/modules I decided to wait until the replacement boards arrived before shipping as shipping part orders only adds more carriage/packing cost.
Regards
Paul
Hi Marc,
All the boards work electrically. The problem with the transmitter board was caused by the manufacturer trimming the board to the wrong size to fit the recommended extruded aluminium case. They have now provided replacements trimmed more accurately. As most of you have ordered one or more full sets of boards/modules I decided to wait until the replacement boards arrived before shipping as shipping part orders only adds more carriage/packing cost.
Regards
Paul
georgehifi said:
Troy's are NOT for SALE...
They are totally FREE. I am only asking that they pay ACTUAL shipping and I will GIVE them as many as they want.
I meant they were also switch mode, sorry for the for sale typo, should have said for free.
Cheers George
Cheers George
georgehifi said:
George,
That case I might as well get the local switching adapter rather that that one if it's from the same type...
George would it be ok if utilize 'noisy' switching regulator then in my 5v regulator I use some thing like ALWSR or TeddyReg to filter those garbage...???
Hi udailey,
I'm just wondering if you could share your PCB design so I could make one for myself with an online service.
In term of the 5V power supply, can I use something like that? http://www.cui.com/elqNow/elqRedir.htm?ref=http://www.cui.com/pdffiles/VSK-S3-XXU series.pdf
I'm planning to integrate this Lightspeed clone in my tube power amp, so I need a PS which is not going interfere with the amp...
Regards,
Ced.
I'm just wondering if you could share your PCB design so I could make one for myself with an online service.
In term of the 5V power supply, can I use something like that? http://www.cui.com/elqNow/elqRedir.htm?ref=http://www.cui.com/pdffiles/VSK-S3-XXU series.pdf
I'm planning to integrate this Lightspeed clone in my tube power amp, so I need a PS which is not going interfere with the amp...
Regards,
Ced.
Hi Ced
Sure I have no problem with that.
First Here is Giovanni Miltano's build using an extra board that I sent him. By the way, I am not selling these boards I just made more than one for myself and he is a good friend so he got one. But they are simple to etch.
So, here is his build with a pic of my board
http://www.diyaudioprojects.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=615
Here is my build
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=388
This build also includes my board design for a power supply which I think switches at 300khz and I can not hear the switching in the speakers but I CAN hear it when I put my ear up to the power supply. No I am not a liar 🙂 It whines real high pitch so I bet you could build a better one.
I screwed up my first board and posted a fixed layout later on in that thread on page 3 I think.
Here is the link to the pic. http://diyaudioprojects.com/Forum/download/file.php?id=582
I would be glad to help you with any questions you have about the boards. If you take it into Photoshop and remove the red then paint a little green into where removing the red actually removed traces you will have the image you need to etch.
I used the blue press n peel method but be sure to find a print shop that uses HP toner and then have them open up the printer to verify that its HP toner. Its the ONLY toner that I have found that sticks with any regularity after ironing the press n peel onto your copper clad board. I found that if you use a piece of paper between the press n peel and the iron this helps a lot. Tape the press n peel in place. Iron for about one minute on high contstantly moving around but with the whole iron over the image. Then remove the paper and use the tip of the iron to outline the whole image. Then douse quickly in cold water. Wait a half minute. Carefully peel away and then etch.
Uriah
Sure I have no problem with that.
First Here is Giovanni Miltano's build using an extra board that I sent him. By the way, I am not selling these boards I just made more than one for myself and he is a good friend so he got one. But they are simple to etch.
So, here is his build with a pic of my board
http://www.diyaudioprojects.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=615
Here is my build
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=388
This build also includes my board design for a power supply which I think switches at 300khz and I can not hear the switching in the speakers but I CAN hear it when I put my ear up to the power supply. No I am not a liar 🙂 It whines real high pitch so I bet you could build a better one.
I screwed up my first board and posted a fixed layout later on in that thread on page 3 I think.
Here is the link to the pic. http://diyaudioprojects.com/Forum/download/file.php?id=582
I would be glad to help you with any questions you have about the boards. If you take it into Photoshop and remove the red then paint a little green into where removing the red actually removed traces you will have the image you need to etch.
I used the blue press n peel method but be sure to find a print shop that uses HP toner and then have them open up the printer to verify that its HP toner. Its the ONLY toner that I have found that sticks with any regularity after ironing the press n peel onto your copper clad board. I found that if you use a piece of paper between the press n peel and the iron this helps a lot. Tape the press n peel in place. Iron for about one minute on high contstantly moving around but with the whole iron over the image. Then remove the paper and use the tip of the iron to outline the whole image. Then douse quickly in cold water. Wait a half minute. Carefully peel away and then etch.
Uriah
I looked at your power supply. I had considered this one many times as well. I liked the idea of building my own so I ended up doing that. But as long as you are getting 5V then it probably is just as good. But, George mentions using linear supply and those are also available from Digikey.
Uriah
Uriah
Lightspeed remote control
Hi Folks,
All outstanding VCCS ans IRTR printed circuit board orders went out today with a parts list. I will be starting module construction on Saturday after I finish the application notes. There are a fair few module orders so it may take a few Saturdays to clear these orders. Earliest orders will be dealt with first.
I keep getting technical enquiries via e-mail and this is just slowing me down as I have to answer many questions repetitively. Please confine technical enquiries to the forum thread.
Regards]
Paul
Hi Folks,
All outstanding VCCS ans IRTR printed circuit board orders went out today with a parts list. I will be starting module construction on Saturday after I finish the application notes. There are a fair few module orders so it may take a few Saturdays to clear these orders. Earliest orders will be dealt with first.
I keep getting technical enquiries via e-mail and this is just slowing me down as I have to answer many questions repetitively. Please confine technical enquiries to the forum thread.
Regards]
Paul