Rajkumar
Great find. This is getting exciting as solutions starting to come in. Ok you need a dedicated computer but many guys have that in mind already. Just to confirm a PCI card fits in a computer with a PCI bus and its got 4m video memory. That right. Wonder how good the card is.
I think thats really excellent. An LCD screen and a video card for $119, presume thats US dollars.
Lifter
I have found a controller for your 1280 x 1024 LCD. Tell you about it soon. BTW has TTL and LVDS. User selectable LCD resolution from 640 x 480 up to 1600 x 1200
Great find. This is getting exciting as solutions starting to come in. Ok you need a dedicated computer but many guys have that in mind already. Just to confirm a PCI card fits in a computer with a PCI bus and its got 4m video memory. That right. Wonder how good the card is.
I think thats really excellent. An LCD screen and a video card for $119, presume thats US dollars.
Lifter
I have found a controller for your 1280 x 1024 LCD. Tell you about it soon. BTW has TTL and LVDS. User selectable LCD resolution from 640 x 480 up to 1600 x 1200
LCD panel 10.5 inch
Yes its US $. I went to check it out during my lunch hours doday - they are down a few block from my work - a nice huge store where I normally find cheap stuff. The monitor looks great with nice color and saturation. I talked to one of the guy there and he said they were part of some sort of monitoring system by Unisys. I am not sure how difficult it would be to rip apart the back light though.. The price seems to be very tempting to even try.. Let's see.
Yes its US $. I went to check it out during my lunch hours doday - they are down a few block from my work - a nice huge store where I normally find cheap stuff. The monitor looks great with nice color and saturation. I talked to one of the guy there and he said they were part of some sort of monitoring system by Unisys. I am not sure how difficult it would be to rip apart the back light though.. The price seems to be very tempting to even try.. Let's see.
yander26 said:I was able to get the LCD display to fit in it's entirety on the overhead by taking apart the glass top of the overhead, and cutting the plastic away between the glass and the fresnel lens. It seems to work fine, I was worried the fresnel lens ended under the plastic but that wasn't the case, and it looks fine at the edges. So far the only down side I see to it being a 14" monitor is that the projector will be physically larger. If I decide to use the overhead, it won't make any difference, as it will be the size of the overhead projector.
How tight is the fit? I'm dying to know. What are the chances of a 15" monitor fitting? The reason I ask is because I started another thread about a 15" Dell laptop monitor that has a native rez of 1600x1200 an a 400:1 contrast ration and a 25ms response time.
Is there a general concenses to how hard it is to make panels transparent for a projector? Are Sharps easier than Toshibas? How hard are the hard ones? How easy are the easy ones? Which ones are impossible? There should be some kind of list in the FAQ.
Ok, I was wrong. I stand corrected. Remp was right and a lot has changed in 3 years. It looks like newer panels do use LVDS. This is not a good thing. But the good news is that there are a few standards. The one I was reading up on is the 20-pin one. What that means is you will need this to get it to work.
Method A (digital but no hardcore 3D gaming- impractical):
- A digital controller card. It won't even come close to matching the performance of Gforce and Radeon cards.
- A 20-pin LVDS transmitter (converts FPL to LVDS)
- A 20-pin LVDS to 44-pin external LVDS kit (2 boards and a cable, allows long distance transmission).
- At least $600 dollars. Probably more.
Method B (Analog method= signal loss, uncertain picture- still expensive):
- A 20-pin LVDS transmitter (converts FPL to LVDS)
- An A/D converter controller board. Basically a VGA to FPL converter.
- A custom cable to connect the two together.
- At least $350
Method C (Pure digital, high-end performance- totally impractical)
- A DVI capable high-end graphics card (like the ATI All-in-Wonder)
- A DVI cable
- A DVI reciever (converts DVI to FPL)
- A 20-pin LVDS transmitter (converts FPL to LVDS)
- At least $600 (but you get a high-end graphics card with it)
The "C" method would be the least stressful. No custom cables, etc.- just plug and play. You can't use anything that requires VGA loopthrough, but the DVI version of the ATI All-in-Wonder has a built in HDTV tuner and a DVD decoder, so you wouldn't need it.
Method A (digital but no hardcore 3D gaming- impractical):
- A digital controller card. It won't even come close to matching the performance of Gforce and Radeon cards.
- A 20-pin LVDS transmitter (converts FPL to LVDS)
- A 20-pin LVDS to 44-pin external LVDS kit (2 boards and a cable, allows long distance transmission).
- At least $600 dollars. Probably more.
Method B (Analog method= signal loss, uncertain picture- still expensive):
- A 20-pin LVDS transmitter (converts FPL to LVDS)
- An A/D converter controller board. Basically a VGA to FPL converter.
- A custom cable to connect the two together.
- At least $350
Method C (Pure digital, high-end performance- totally impractical)
- A DVI capable high-end graphics card (like the ATI All-in-Wonder)
- A DVI cable
- A DVI reciever (converts DVI to FPL)
- A 20-pin LVDS transmitter (converts FPL to LVDS)
- At least $600 (but you get a high-end graphics card with it)
The "C" method would be the least stressful. No custom cables, etc.- just plug and play. You can't use anything that requires VGA loopthrough, but the DVI version of the ATI All-in-Wonder has a built in HDTV tuner and a DVD decoder, so you wouldn't need it.
Lifter
Darn good info that. Could be very useful as I hope to present something quite outstanding in a week or so. Just waiting on the supplier to confirm prices etc.
Ok in the meantime I have a technical question.
Whats good colour. My computer gives me the options of 256 colours which is yuck, 16 bit colour which is not bad and 24 bit colour which to my eyes is as good as it gets.
How do they arrive at 24 bit colour and what does it mean in terms of shades of colour.
Heres the mathematics for 24 bit colour
8 bits for red.......8 bits for blue....... and 8 bits for green
3 x 8 = 24. 24 bit colour but what do the 8 bits represent.
Just look at the red for a moment.
8 bits thats actually a byte. Now in computer technology 8 bits can give any number between 0 and 255. Thats 256 possibilities because 0 is a valid number. So for the red we can have 256 variations of red. Same with blue and green. Each of the primary colours can have 256 variations
How does that translate into the colours on your computer or your LCD screen
256 red times 256 green times 256 blue
Multiply that out 256 x 256 x 256 gives 16,777,216
nearly 17 million colours.
Far as I know no computer system does better than that colourwise although some say they are 32 bit colour and even 36 bit colour. The 32 and 36 bit units offer either faster screen drawing or other features which I don't know about.
But getting back to the 24 bit colour
My question is if there are 24 bits, then why do TTL laptop systems not just use 24 TTL lines. IE one TTL for each bit.
All the LCD's I have looked at have 40 pin TTL, 54 pin TTL and even up to 88 pin TTL
Could someone explain the much greater number of TTL lines.
I can imagine there are a few extra TTL lines needed for clock and things like that but 54 TTL lines is a lot more that the 24 TTL lines I would have expected.
Darn good info that. Could be very useful as I hope to present something quite outstanding in a week or so. Just waiting on the supplier to confirm prices etc.
Ok in the meantime I have a technical question.
Whats good colour. My computer gives me the options of 256 colours which is yuck, 16 bit colour which is not bad and 24 bit colour which to my eyes is as good as it gets.
How do they arrive at 24 bit colour and what does it mean in terms of shades of colour.
Heres the mathematics for 24 bit colour
8 bits for red.......8 bits for blue....... and 8 bits for green
3 x 8 = 24. 24 bit colour but what do the 8 bits represent.
Just look at the red for a moment.
8 bits thats actually a byte. Now in computer technology 8 bits can give any number between 0 and 255. Thats 256 possibilities because 0 is a valid number. So for the red we can have 256 variations of red. Same with blue and green. Each of the primary colours can have 256 variations
How does that translate into the colours on your computer or your LCD screen
256 red times 256 green times 256 blue
Multiply that out 256 x 256 x 256 gives 16,777,216
nearly 17 million colours.
Far as I know no computer system does better than that colourwise although some say they are 32 bit colour and even 36 bit colour. The 32 and 36 bit units offer either faster screen drawing or other features which I don't know about.
But getting back to the 24 bit colour
My question is if there are 24 bits, then why do TTL laptop systems not just use 24 TTL lines. IE one TTL for each bit.
All the LCD's I have looked at have 40 pin TTL, 54 pin TTL and even up to 88 pin TTL
Could someone explain the much greater number of TTL lines.
I can imagine there are a few extra TTL lines needed for clock and things like that but 54 TTL lines is a lot more that the 24 TTL lines I would have expected.
Uhhh, getting a little ahead of me there. 24-bit color is the best to the human eye. 32-bit is still 16.7 million colors plus a 4th channel (RBG + something else). I know in Photoshop you can make images with a 4th channel called an alpha channel. It contains transparency information or something like that. Not sure what it has to do w/ monitors, but anyways...
What exactly do you need this information for? Are you building your own controller card from bare ICs or something? That's way beyond me and a bit too much trouble don't you think?
Personally remp, all this stuff is a waste of time unless we're talking about a high res panel. Otherwise, it's just as cheap and a million times easier to either buy a desktop LCD or a nice projection panel. Your not gonna hook up a laptop panel to a PC for less than $200. Now if you wanna spend some money and have something REALLY nice, read on. I'm going to purue a project. The UXGA Dell panel has reignited my interest in this. The most expensive LCD projectors have a XGA native res at most. I saw one for $90K that had XGA res. Some CRT's might be that high, but any of the affordable older ones won't have anything other than crappy NTSC inputs. Of course they have superior lenses, lights, and black levels, but for a normal sized room with the blinds closed, I'd prefer the higher res for a hell of a lot less money. I'm going off topic here, but it's all relavent to what your doing. All I need to buy as far as electronics go are 3 things.
1. A 1600x1200 panel for a Dell laptop. $250-$400
http://www.dell.com/us/en/dhs/learnmore/learnmore_screenultrasharp_notebooks_popup_inspn.htm
2. An HDTV tuner card. $300-400. Setop boxes cost 2-3 times this much.
3. This bad boy:
http://www.spectrah.com/arv-462.htm - Cost unknown (probably $300 or more plus int'l shipping charges)
Now the panel is 15 inches. Could be a problem. Can the fresnel just be further away? Should I even lose a fresnel (I heard they hurt picture quality)? Maybe a large condeser lens would work? I'll have to read more. I know a lot about LCD electronics but nothing about DIY projectors (why I'm here). I'm thinking a custom box, a nice reflector, a 575W MH bulb (maybe 1000), and the lenses from an OHP would be less than $350.
My project outline:
Phase 1: Buy an OHP and a very cheap panel projector to test out distances, get a feel for how the lenses work, etc. Worst case scenario should things not work out is that I'm stuck with a 640x480 OHP system. Good for Clippers and Lakers games. $150 for both.
Phase 2: Confirm the price and availability for the above mentioned controller. Might need to find someone to translate for me in order to do this (what is Tawain's language? Cantonese? Mandarin?).
Phase 3: Buy the panel itself. Get the back stuff off and make it transparent. Find or make a longer ribbon cable if necesary. This is the risky part. If it doesn't work, I'll save it for a different DIY project (maybe make a tablet PC). $300 or so.
Phase 4: Buy the controller. Guessing $350.
Phase 5: Test it out as if it were a projection panel. It won't be bright, but if it looks crisp and clean, I can proceed. If not, I'll have to put the project on hold and do some serious research in order to find out what lenses I'll need. My PC's mobo has a DVI output already (don't ask), so I don't need to buy the graphics card yet.
Phase 6: Design and build the pieces for the enclosure. The part I'm dreading. Build the bottom part and mount the guts. Use a cheap lamp or the OHP's lamp for testing purposes. Get all the distances figured out.
Phase 7: Buy the MH lamp and reflector. $150 I'm guessing Mount it and do some temerature monitoring.
Phase 8: Buy the heat management parts. A heat glass and some fans. Chump change.
Phase 9: Buy a good screen. $100 should do it.
Phase 10: Figure out the projector's eventual distance from the screen so it fills it up. Test everything. If it works great then proceed.
Phase 11: Build the rest of the enclosure. Mount the projector on the ceiling. Find some sort of cover to muffle the sound and make it look nicer. I'll also have make something for the hot air to go far far away.
Phase 12: Hook my PC up to the projector and my audio reciever. One SPDIF RCA and one DVI cable. Pure digital, no signal loss. Only one cable (besides power) to run to the projector so it'd be a lot easier running it though the cieling and wall. At this point, since I have a DVD rom drive, I don't have to spend more or do any more work to enjoy the benefits. But later on I will probably....
Phase 13: Buy an HDTV tuner card. Hopefully somone will make HDTV tuner software for the ATI Radeon All-in-Wonder. The card has a built in ATSC decoder, DVD decoder, dual monitor support (I'll need a desktop monitor), and DVI output. Not to mention you also get the best 3D graphics card in the world. Will come in handy when your playing games on a huge screen. $400 and worth every penny.
Phase 14: Hook up a VCR and/or old consoles through the graphics card's NTSC inputs.
Phase 15: Find a way to get compnent inputs on my PC. I'll need it for my Xbox. Might have to wait on that if nothing's available for a reasonable price.
Phase 16: Dig up my old X-10 to control everything. I also got a tiny wireless keyboard/mouse lying around.
Phase 17: Go to the beach or something. Play some b-ball. Remind my friends I'm still alive.
Phase 18: Start paying off my credit card bills.
What exactly do you need this information for? Are you building your own controller card from bare ICs or something? That's way beyond me and a bit too much trouble don't you think?
Personally remp, all this stuff is a waste of time unless we're talking about a high res panel. Otherwise, it's just as cheap and a million times easier to either buy a desktop LCD or a nice projection panel. Your not gonna hook up a laptop panel to a PC for less than $200. Now if you wanna spend some money and have something REALLY nice, read on. I'm going to purue a project. The UXGA Dell panel has reignited my interest in this. The most expensive LCD projectors have a XGA native res at most. I saw one for $90K that had XGA res. Some CRT's might be that high, but any of the affordable older ones won't have anything other than crappy NTSC inputs. Of course they have superior lenses, lights, and black levels, but for a normal sized room with the blinds closed, I'd prefer the higher res for a hell of a lot less money. I'm going off topic here, but it's all relavent to what your doing. All I need to buy as far as electronics go are 3 things.
1. A 1600x1200 panel for a Dell laptop. $250-$400
http://www.dell.com/us/en/dhs/learnmore/learnmore_screenultrasharp_notebooks_popup_inspn.htm
2. An HDTV tuner card. $300-400. Setop boxes cost 2-3 times this much.
3. This bad boy:
http://www.spectrah.com/arv-462.htm - Cost unknown (probably $300 or more plus int'l shipping charges)
Now the panel is 15 inches. Could be a problem. Can the fresnel just be further away? Should I even lose a fresnel (I heard they hurt picture quality)? Maybe a large condeser lens would work? I'll have to read more. I know a lot about LCD electronics but nothing about DIY projectors (why I'm here). I'm thinking a custom box, a nice reflector, a 575W MH bulb (maybe 1000), and the lenses from an OHP would be less than $350.
My project outline:
Phase 1: Buy an OHP and a very cheap panel projector to test out distances, get a feel for how the lenses work, etc. Worst case scenario should things not work out is that I'm stuck with a 640x480 OHP system. Good for Clippers and Lakers games. $150 for both.
Phase 2: Confirm the price and availability for the above mentioned controller. Might need to find someone to translate for me in order to do this (what is Tawain's language? Cantonese? Mandarin?).
Phase 3: Buy the panel itself. Get the back stuff off and make it transparent. Find or make a longer ribbon cable if necesary. This is the risky part. If it doesn't work, I'll save it for a different DIY project (maybe make a tablet PC). $300 or so.
Phase 4: Buy the controller. Guessing $350.
Phase 5: Test it out as if it were a projection panel. It won't be bright, but if it looks crisp and clean, I can proceed. If not, I'll have to put the project on hold and do some serious research in order to find out what lenses I'll need. My PC's mobo has a DVI output already (don't ask), so I don't need to buy the graphics card yet.
Phase 6: Design and build the pieces for the enclosure. The part I'm dreading. Build the bottom part and mount the guts. Use a cheap lamp or the OHP's lamp for testing purposes. Get all the distances figured out.
Phase 7: Buy the MH lamp and reflector. $150 I'm guessing Mount it and do some temerature monitoring.
Phase 8: Buy the heat management parts. A heat glass and some fans. Chump change.
Phase 9: Buy a good screen. $100 should do it.
Phase 10: Figure out the projector's eventual distance from the screen so it fills it up. Test everything. If it works great then proceed.
Phase 11: Build the rest of the enclosure. Mount the projector on the ceiling. Find some sort of cover to muffle the sound and make it look nicer. I'll also have make something for the hot air to go far far away.
Phase 12: Hook my PC up to the projector and my audio reciever. One SPDIF RCA and one DVI cable. Pure digital, no signal loss. Only one cable (besides power) to run to the projector so it'd be a lot easier running it though the cieling and wall. At this point, since I have a DVD rom drive, I don't have to spend more or do any more work to enjoy the benefits. But later on I will probably....
Phase 13: Buy an HDTV tuner card. Hopefully somone will make HDTV tuner software for the ATI Radeon All-in-Wonder. The card has a built in ATSC decoder, DVD decoder, dual monitor support (I'll need a desktop monitor), and DVI output. Not to mention you also get the best 3D graphics card in the world. Will come in handy when your playing games on a huge screen. $400 and worth every penny.
Phase 14: Hook up a VCR and/or old consoles through the graphics card's NTSC inputs.
Phase 15: Find a way to get compnent inputs on my PC. I'll need it for my Xbox. Might have to wait on that if nothing's available for a reasonable price.
Phase 16: Dig up my old X-10 to control everything. I also got a tiny wireless keyboard/mouse lying around.
Phase 17: Go to the beach or something. Play some b-ball. Remind my friends I'm still alive.
Phase 18: Start paying off my credit card bills.
Lifter
I think you are right about the transparency channel. I have read that somewhere else.
About the TTL I just like to know the story. Its all good knowledge. Never know when it will come in handy.
That ARV-462 is around $240 US or so plus freight.
The one I like the look of is the ARV-468 controller at $256 US plus shipping from Taiwan. I was waiting for the prices to come in before mentioning these controllers but came tonite much earlier than expected.
Also you can get their LDS270 video card with some reasonable specifications for $139 US.
See drawing
I think you are right about the transparency channel. I have read that somewhere else.
About the TTL I just like to know the story. Its all good knowledge. Never know when it will come in handy.
That ARV-462 is around $240 US or so plus freight.
The one I like the look of is the ARV-468 controller at $256 US plus shipping from Taiwan. I was waiting for the prices to come in before mentioning these controllers but came tonite much earlier than expected.
Also you can get their LDS270 video card with some reasonable specifications for $139 US.
See drawing
Attachments
card will arrive soon ...I hope
I've ordered my LD S270M, along with a selection of cables. I only have 60 cm cables coming as this is plenty of distance for my application. When it arrives I'll go shopping first locally for a panel ...last resort will be an Ebay type purchase.
Maybe I've found something usefull after all?
zardoz
I've ordered my LD S270M, along with a selection of cables. I only have 60 cm cables coming as this is plenty of distance for my application. When it arrives I'll go shopping first locally for a panel ...last resort will be an Ebay type purchase.
Maybe I've found something usefull after all?
zardoz
Been following this thread with much interest, thank you.
Wondered if anyone had any thoughts on using the new Via EpiaM mobo which has LVDS output and good DVD/multimedia performance (see my post on p.7).
This could provide an efficient and relatively cheap solution to linking the PC to the LCD monitor, but we need a bit of guidance on the pins spec. We are chasing the Via people for more info and will copy any response to you, but any feedback greatly appreciated.
Wondered if anyone had any thoughts on using the new Via EpiaM mobo which has LVDS output and good DVD/multimedia performance (see my post on p.7).
This could provide an efficient and relatively cheap solution to linking the PC to the LCD monitor, but we need a bit of guidance on the pins spec. We are chasing the Via people for more info and will copy any response to you, but any feedback greatly appreciated.
I'm confused (typical)
Is the main difference between the LDS270M and the ARV462 the fact that one is a PCI card and the other is "self-contained" and doesn't need to be operated with a computer? Are both capable of driving the high-end panels? Whoops, I see that the ARV is capable of UXGA while the LDS only mentions up to SXVA. Still, they both seem impressive.....especially when compared to my VGA panel I'm using now. I see Zardoz heading down the LDS path with possibly Lifter and Remp leaning towards the ARV route, any thoughts from you fellows as to why one route over the other? Or is it just a matter of preference (or resolution)?
Is the main difference between the LDS270M and the ARV462 the fact that one is a PCI card and the other is "self-contained" and doesn't need to be operated with a computer? Are both capable of driving the high-end panels? Whoops, I see that the ARV is capable of UXGA while the LDS only mentions up to SXVA. Still, they both seem impressive.....especially when compared to my VGA panel I'm using now. I see Zardoz heading down the LDS path with possibly Lifter and Remp leaning towards the ARV route, any thoughts from you fellows as to why one route over the other? Or is it just a matter of preference (or resolution)?
Smoke eater
Hi, I'm choosing the PCI card sollution as I intend to integrate this unit with a self contained multi media setup. That is to say.. a dedicated standalone system that will serve everything from TV to DVD to Mp3 to web surfing. I also have some designs on a mobile system that I have been asked to look into producing for a security company I have done some contract work for in the past. As such it was best for me to be able to remove it from my HTPC to do further configurations on my test bench for my prospective customer.
BTW folks you may not be able to dupplicate the $139.00 from spectra as I am an OEM and I am purchasing this card as an engineering sample, if I can develope the "in-car" system my associates desire I'll make enough money on the deal to buy a new DLP or LCD projector ~S~ (gonna dream... dream BIG!... right? )
I'll have the card soon I hope and will post all data and experiences with it as soon as I can, if it works as well as I hope it will, and spectra wont do one off's for the forum guys I'd consider expanding my next order. I allready have a tentative order for 36 cards should the system I have in mind work out (fleet of security vehicles in Toronto).
zardoz
Hi, I'm choosing the PCI card sollution as I intend to integrate this unit with a self contained multi media setup. That is to say.. a dedicated standalone system that will serve everything from TV to DVD to Mp3 to web surfing. I also have some designs on a mobile system that I have been asked to look into producing for a security company I have done some contract work for in the past. As such it was best for me to be able to remove it from my HTPC to do further configurations on my test bench for my prospective customer.
BTW folks you may not be able to dupplicate the $139.00 from spectra as I am an OEM and I am purchasing this card as an engineering sample, if I can develope the "in-car" system my associates desire I'll make enough money on the deal to buy a new DLP or LCD projector ~S~ (gonna dream... dream BIG!... right? )
I'll have the card soon I hope and will post all data and experiences with it as soon as I can, if it works as well as I hope it will, and spectra wont do one off's for the forum guys I'd consider expanding my next order. I allready have a tentative order for 36 cards should the system I have in mind work out (fleet of security vehicles in Toronto).
zardoz
forgot to mention
forgot a couple of details.....the TTL cables I find on spectras site are 60 cm, the LVDS cables are quoted as 60cm, 100cm or 300cm.
Distance from the panel seems to be less of an issue than we first anticipated.
Life is an education.... be a good student. Go to bed a little less stupid everyday!
😉 zardoz
forgot a couple of details.....the TTL cables I find on spectras site are 60 cm, the LVDS cables are quoted as 60cm, 100cm or 300cm.
Distance from the panel seems to be less of an issue than we first anticipated.
Life is an education.... be a good student. Go to bed a little less stupid everyday!
😉 zardoz
Lifter said:
How tight is the fit? I'm dying to know. What are the chances of a 15" monitor fitting? The reason I ask is because I started another thread about a 15" Dell laptop monitor that has a native rez of 1600x1200 an a 400:1 contrast ration and a 25ms response time.
The fit was very tight, the 14" monitor just fit with only a few millimeters to spare on either side.
Hello yander26,
If you dont mind, could you tell us what the measurement of the OHP stage is or the measurement of the LCD active area.
I'm not having any issues here by going out and getting a KOGi monitor from CompUSA here locally and then getting an OHP.
I'd like to be able to utilze the HTPC and some gaming with a Radeon 8500 attached to it so I'd like to go with the LCD monitor idea if its working for you.
How many lumens is it putting out? If you dont mind me asking...read all the threads but maybe missed your info.
thanks,
DragonzTeeth
If you dont mind, could you tell us what the measurement of the OHP stage is or the measurement of the LCD active area.
I'm not having any issues here by going out and getting a KOGi monitor from CompUSA here locally and then getting an OHP.
I'd like to be able to utilze the HTPC and some gaming with a Radeon 8500 attached to it so I'd like to go with the LCD monitor idea if its working for you.
How many lumens is it putting out? If you dont mind me asking...read all the threads but maybe missed your info.
thanks,
DragonzTeeth
Re: I'm confused (typical)
There is a huge difference. Those PCI cards they have are a bust. Don't get one because your stuck with using that and nothing else. Granted, it is a little cheaper than most, but you can never upgrade your video card, and you can never plug anything else into your panel. They also suck as graphics cards. I'm sure a 5 year old Voodoo 2 card is more powerful.
The ARV converter boards on the other hand are totally different. They let you drive the panel with any standard VGA or DVI graphics card. The fact that it has a DVI input and an analog VGA input is amazing. Now the fact that it can output standard flat panel signals (like I was telling everyone about) and LVDS signals (for newer panels) is amazing. It also looks like Spectrah sells a bunch of different cables to connect this board to different types of LVDS inputs.
Smoke Eater said:Is the main difference between the LDS270M and the ARV462 the fact that one is a PCI card and the other is "self-contained" and doesn't need to be operated with a computer? Are both capable of driving the high-end panels? Whoops, I see that the ARV is capable of UXGA while the LDS only mentions up to SXVA. Still, they both seem impressive.....especially when compared to my VGA panel I'm using now. I see Zardoz heading down the LDS path with possibly Lifter and Remp leaning towards the ARV route, any thoughts from you fellows as to why one route over the other? Or is it just a matter of preference (or resolution)?
There is a huge difference. Those PCI cards they have are a bust. Don't get one because your stuck with using that and nothing else. Granted, it is a little cheaper than most, but you can never upgrade your video card, and you can never plug anything else into your panel. They also suck as graphics cards. I'm sure a 5 year old Voodoo 2 card is more powerful.
The ARV converter boards on the other hand are totally different. They let you drive the panel with any standard VGA or DVI graphics card. The fact that it has a DVI input and an analog VGA input is amazing. Now the fact that it can output standard flat panel signals (like I was telling everyone about) and LVDS signals (for newer panels) is amazing. It also looks like Spectrah sells a bunch of different cables to connect this board to different types of LVDS inputs.
useful link maybe...?
After seeing the Spectrah info but not knowing if we can order direct from them I found some interesting distributors that have lots-oh LCD parts, cables, panels , controllers etc...
Maybe some of you knew of these already, wasn't sure.
http://www.bellmicro.com/flatpanel/pages/linecard.asp
http://www.allamerican.com/direct/
DragonzTeeth
After seeing the Spectrah info but not knowing if we can order direct from them I found some interesting distributors that have lots-oh LCD parts, cables, panels , controllers etc...
Maybe some of you knew of these already, wasn't sure.
http://www.bellmicro.com/flatpanel/pages/linecard.asp
http://www.allamerican.com/direct/
DragonzTeeth
Originally quoted by lifter
There is a huge difference. Those PCI cards they have are a bust. Don't get one because your stuck with using that and nothing else. Granted, it is a little cheaper than most, but you can never upgrade your video card, and you can never plug anything else into your panel. They also suck as graphics cards. I'm sure a 5 year old Voodoo 2 card is more powerful
Lifter you are being negative again. You were the one that said we should forget about looking for panel solutions and use an Earthlcd controller which as you posted yourself are made up to only drive one particular panel.
Are you prepared to admit the ARV Spectrah card is a mile better than a one panel controller ?
You should have said good on Zardoz for doing some work and sticking his money on the line. Lets hope it works out fine. Thats what I would have said. I am sure he will give his card a thorough test and report his findings so others can choose from someone offering first hand results, not like you that is still in the what will I buy stage. Personally I think Zardoz deserves a big round of applause because he was the first to post the Spectrah link here.
You said on several occasions that I was on the wrong approach and look what has turned up.
This highly technical activity is all about generationg a positive attitude to encourage guys to search for interesting solutions.
Stop the negative thoughts and get more positive. I know you can do it, and I know you have a lot to offer.
There is a huge difference. Those PCI cards they have are a bust. Don't get one because your stuck with using that and nothing else. Granted, it is a little cheaper than most, but you can never upgrade your video card, and you can never plug anything else into your panel. They also suck as graphics cards. I'm sure a 5 year old Voodoo 2 card is more powerful
Lifter you are being negative again. You were the one that said we should forget about looking for panel solutions and use an Earthlcd controller which as you posted yourself are made up to only drive one particular panel.
Are you prepared to admit the ARV Spectrah card is a mile better than a one panel controller ?
You should have said good on Zardoz for doing some work and sticking his money on the line. Lets hope it works out fine. Thats what I would have said. I am sure he will give his card a thorough test and report his findings so others can choose from someone offering first hand results, not like you that is still in the what will I buy stage. Personally I think Zardoz deserves a big round of applause because he was the first to post the Spectrah link here.
You said on several occasions that I was on the wrong approach and look what has turned up.
This highly technical activity is all about generationg a positive attitude to encourage guys to search for interesting solutions.
Stop the negative thoughts and get more positive. I know you can do it, and I know you have a lot to offer.
Lemming
Sorry have not got back to you on the unit you posted on page 7.
It looks interesting
Is it a single board computer.
Any idea of price. ?
I had a look at www.viapsd.com to try and find it but no joy.
Some more details would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry have not got back to you on the unit you posted on page 7.
It looks interesting
Is it a single board computer.
Any idea of price. ?
I had a look at www.viapsd.com to try and find it but no joy.
Some more details would be greatly appreciated.
Re: Re: I'm confused (typical)
If you had taken the time to read my post lifter...I do have other concerns with regards to my selection of product. I have other uses for powering LCD screens...other than JUST for a projector.
I took the initiative and phoned the owner of a rather "up and coming" fast mover in the security industry that I have had the pleasure of working with. Want to know something? That card that you are so willing to call down as a "bust" just might make some serious money for my business. So I think I made under the circumstances a very educated, well placed purchase... one that I can use for two purposes. If it isnt the PERFECT card for a DIY projector OH WELL! I'm quite certain it will fit my needs nicely.
So far the best advice you have given me is to not plug my keyboard or mouse into my Svideo port.
When others in the forum give advice most of them do so with a little patience...and never with sarcasm. You on the other hand seem to revel in "what I know that others dont" (the fact that it can output standard flat panel signals (like I was telling everyone about) syndrome. If you arent going to do the work and find the answer dont keep telling us how it ought to be, and how we NEED to READ MY POSTS! ARGH and how we are wrong. Then jump in and GRANDSTAND yourself into looking like it was your sollution. I spent 11 years in the army ...I dont play the game anymore. If ya got something to say ...just say it, dont get all "high an mighty". We... myself anyhow.....are here to get advice and to try to learn something...maybe even contribute some help with a little bit of effort. If I want a lot of attitude and ranting I'll go back to the army.
Peace out!
zardoz
Still havent found any folks with a degree in electronic's that want to coment I guess.
If you had taken the time to read my post lifter...I do have other concerns with regards to my selection of product. I have other uses for powering LCD screens...other than JUST for a projector.
I took the initiative and phoned the owner of a rather "up and coming" fast mover in the security industry that I have had the pleasure of working with. Want to know something? That card that you are so willing to call down as a "bust" just might make some serious money for my business. So I think I made under the circumstances a very educated, well placed purchase... one that I can use for two purposes. If it isnt the PERFECT card for a DIY projector OH WELL! I'm quite certain it will fit my needs nicely.
So far the best advice you have given me is to not plug my keyboard or mouse into my Svideo port.
When others in the forum give advice most of them do so with a little patience...and never with sarcasm. You on the other hand seem to revel in "what I know that others dont" (the fact that it can output standard flat panel signals (like I was telling everyone about) syndrome. If you arent going to do the work and find the answer dont keep telling us how it ought to be, and how we NEED to READ MY POSTS! ARGH and how we are wrong. Then jump in and GRANDSTAND yourself into looking like it was your sollution. I spent 11 years in the army ...I dont play the game anymore. If ya got something to say ...just say it, dont get all "high an mighty". We... myself anyhow.....are here to get advice and to try to learn something...maybe even contribute some help with a little bit of effort. If I want a lot of attitude and ranting I'll go back to the army.
Peace out!
zardoz
Still havent found any folks with a degree in electronic's that want to coment I guess.
Lifter said:
There is a huge difference. Those PCI cards they have are a bust. Don't get one because your stuck with using that and nothing else. Granted, it is a little cheaper than most, but you can never upgrade your video card, and you can never plug anything else into your panel. They also suck as graphics cards. I'm sure a 5 year old Voodoo 2 card is more powerful.
The ARV converter boards on the other hand are totally different. They let you drive the panel with any standard VGA or DVI graphics card. The fact that it has a DVI input and an analog VGA input is amazing. Now the fact that it can output standard flat panel signals (like I was telling everyone about) and LVDS signals (for newer panels) is amazing. It also looks like Spectrah sells a bunch of different cables to connect this board to different types of LVDS inputs.
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