Hi Dennis
You can use TO-3 socket as well 🙂
Best regards
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10sets-Bake...aa162f0&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=3&sd=130328755206
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Hi Christophe,
Thanks. In my case, the heatsink I want to use is quite thick and the
pins on the To-3 part doesn't quite extend pass the base plate.
Cheers,
Dennis
Thanks. In my case, the heatsink I want to use is quite thick and the
pins on the To-3 part doesn't quite extend pass the base plate.
Cheers,
Dennis
Hi Dennis
Good news !
I have lot of special for TO-3 transistors extensions by 10 mm = 0,393 inch more.
It's what you need ? Very easy to solder btw.
How many pieces ? If you interested simply PM me.
Christophe
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@ Diyers
In L'Amp first capacitors after audio signal input are 10 uF non polarized type.
After visualised this video i think try experiment if this realy work in sit amp.
I see inside of my old Hiraga amplifier Wima red film caps have (+) write by hand with pencil on non polarized ! ?
What Diyers opinions ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnR_DLd1PDI
In L'Amp first capacitors after audio signal input are 10 uF non polarized type.
After visualised this video i think try experiment if this realy work in sit amp.
I see inside of my old Hiraga amplifier Wima red film caps have (+) write by hand with pencil on non polarized ! ?
What Diyers opinions ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnR_DLd1PDI
You can use a smaller inductor, but not too small. Is good to have margin because this inductor will shunt current to supply, and inductively. So this will add unwanted distortions. Instead 3mH I think some 10-12mH will suffice for this 400Hz work, and some crossover inductors in market have this value.
...or if you use horn/hi eff speakers with low/moderate volumes, you can experiment with output inductor as crossover.
They are not from the socket.
Don't use pins extension if you use TO-3 socket...
Best regards 🙂
Hi Dennis
Visibly yes is Molex connectors inside part.
Like you see on my photos they can do the job
but other solutions are better or equal.
Connectors i ready have on my table without buy " that one's "
Greetings 🙂
The story is i bought them like a part of big box of new old stock components without knowing his utility.
Always guessing they was made for TO-3
Always guessing they was made for TO-3
The story is i bought them like a part of big box of new old stock components without knowing his utility.
Always guessing they was made for TO-3
I have used stranded hook up wire soldered to TO-3 parts with heat shrink insulation to insulate inside the heat shrink holes. If I have long gate wires between drive source and gate I put the gate stopper resistor right at the gate pin and heat shrink over the resistor and wire. I trust the soldered connection more than a socket pin. Of course for thick heat sinks you have to make these connections before mounting the part to the sink.
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Hi my friend Mike
Yes simple and efficient solution 🙂
Btw i use Puffin Pro Browser software on Mac
so i can show many photos on DiyAudio Forum.
Greetings and have a nice sunday
From your photos and 2355 schematic the cap should be at source not the drain plus yours source resistor to ground is missing or its next to sit?
Yes, the cap needs to be at the junction of the source and source resistor. Do you have a schematic sketch of how you connected everything? It's a little hard to tell what the sit connections are in the photo.
You are totally right. How could i get that cap connection wrong? But it wouldn't explain the failure of the SIT.
As for the resistors, they are big 50 watters hidden between the two heatsinks at the back.
Many thanks for your help.
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Many thanks for your reply. I did use the schematic of post 2355 but made the mistake you mentioned of connecting the cap to the drain. I shall change that asap and see what the remaining SIT shall say.
Yes, with the cap at the drain you would still need to bypass the source resistor. That's why I moved it to source and adjusted the value. Perhaps when you removed the fixed bias voltage source something funny happened on the gate connections?