Nobody said it is in & of itself, but there's no point in using an extra component if you can accomplish the same job without it.
You have to try it… if i can get away with wire i can get its other benefits as well.
A resistor does add at least 4 more connections to the 2 in a piece of wire.
dave
I am using two pairs of CAT5 cable on the side of the enclosure to connect terminal to speaker.
I will try to use it for connecting with the amp to terminals.
I will try to use it for connecting with the amp to terminals.
This is a ingenious remedy, perhaps such flaps may be made of wood to better integrate with the speaker.You should try this :
Most 'Horns' have **** poor or at least one Note bass.
Despite Internet babbles to the contrary.
Live 'n learn.
Despite Internet babbles to the contrary.
Live 'n learn.
Apart from the minor fact that a horn variation, by nature, has a wider operating BW than, for example, a conventional [small] vented box and the response characteristics vary depending on the specifics of expansion / load profile. Still, never let the facts and all that...
What are the benefits, other than higher resistance, of a thinner wire over a thicker wire?
Well, for a start it should cost less and be easier to run & keep out of the way (if those are issues). And if you happen to accept Hawksford's view on electromagnetics, the thin wire is one way of adhering to his interpretation. I don't myself, but many do, so for them it ticks that box too. And so on & so forth. However, this is potentially off topic as this thread is about trying to help the OP, not discussing theory.
The angles of front & rear referred to should not have a catastrophic affect on LF response. However, the 206 was designed to be used with higher amplifier output impedances, and this was partly factored into Dallas II. What you do have to be careful of, as Dave alludes to, is the avoidance of leak paths in the horn. Any gap or bleed through between panels can and does rapidly compromise the load and the LF output quickly drops off as a result. In most practical cases, Dallas II should be good for roughly mid-40Hz regions in-room with reasonable gain, so if you're not getting that, something is awry somewhere.
The angles of front & rear referred to should not have a catastrophic affect on LF response. However, the 206 was designed to be used with higher amplifier output impedances, and this was partly factored into Dallas II. What you do have to be careful of, as Dave alludes to, is the avoidance of leak paths in the horn. Any gap or bleed through between panels can and does rapidly compromise the load and the LF output quickly drops off as a result. In most practical cases, Dallas II should be good for roughly mid-40Hz regions in-room with reasonable gain, so if you're not getting that, something is awry somewhere.
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The OP could use resistors to determine the best value to get him the bass he wants, then he could use thin fragile wire of similar resistance. It's usually best to use as short a speaker wire as possible which could make using resistors a better option.
He could. However, this is a matter of methodological preference and opinion rather than static requirement or obligation. Either approach works fine, so you do whatever suits.
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Exactly, "worst case you could add a resistor" is simply an opinion and it might not be the worst case at all
No, in Dave's opinion it is 'worst case' because you can achieve the same results without needing to add another component.
Hey Vlad,
Maybe you could borrow a more suitable amp to see if it helps with your problem. That and if you have internal stuffing try playing around removing some, o Dr stuffing can kill base response, don't know in the Dallas calls for stuffing though.
Paul
Maybe you could borrow a more suitable amp to see if it helps with your problem. That and if you have internal stuffing try playing around removing some, o Dr stuffing can kill base response, don't know in the Dallas calls for stuffing though.
Paul
So why did you say "no"? I was saying that it's not necessarily the worst case, and giving an example of how and when it isn't.
Looks to me like between you, you've run afoul of the rather blunt tool that is the written word.
You both agree that a resistor can get the job done, although thin wire means you don't need to add an extra connection.
Any chance the design could do with some BSC, and/or some kind of filter to tame the often rising response trend of the Fostex FE range?
My other question would be what's being used as a reference. If it's some bass-heavy headphones, I can imagine that a ~flat speaker would leave them wanting more.
Chris
Isn't keeping the wire as short as possible more advantageous than the negative impact of a couple of extra connections? There is also the potential issue of a thin single core wire being fragile.
I am used to a Geneva sound system L, which is poor in sound and especially bass compared to a stereo system.
I have used 1/8 inch of wool felt in the driver cabinet.
There is predominate bass in the interior of the horn; I do not know if this detail is of use.
Thank you again,
I have used 1/8 inch of wool felt in the driver cabinet.
There is predominate bass in the interior of the horn; I do not know if this detail is of use.
Thank you again,